#1
First, I have searched for an answer to my problem but most of the answers involve acoustic or regular nutted guitars and shaving down the nut.

I've got a Schecter JL7 with Floyd and locking nut so that's not an option.

I've spent hours meticulously intonating this guitar because I want to record with it and I don't want tuning to be a problem. The open strings, 12th fret harmonics, and 12th note fretted are all within 0-2 cents of each other. Even the 24th fret notes are only off by 2-3 cents. However, the lower frets all ring sharp by 10-15 cents starting at fret 1 and then less and less sharp up the neck.

Things I have tried so far:

1. Check tuning with the nut both locked and unlocked
2. Capoing at fret 1 to see if the nut could possibly be the issue
3. Raising, lowering string action. My action is as low as it can go without fretbuzz

My last resort is messing with neck relief and the truss rod. But I just want to make sure no one has a solution before I go that route because I hate messing with truss rods!

Staring down the barrel of the neck, there is a very slight relief but it's more straight and bowed.

Thanks
#2
What is your action at 1st fret low e/high e?

Capo the 1st and fret where the neck meets the body, or the last fret. Where is the most relief and what is it?

You're going to need a set of feeler gauges or if you have a lot of picks laying around you can use that.
#3
You may need to shave down UNDER the locking nut and then shim the locking nut back up to get lower action across the lower frets.

I also suggest getting a good set of tools to properly measure things - straight edge that covers the length of the fretboard - about 18 inches, quality feeler gauges, a fret rocker, string action gauge. Check out StewMac or Philadelphia Luthiers if you are in the USA.

Adjusting the truss rod is an essential part to setting up a guitar - the neck is wood (well at least most of the time) and it moves with tension, temperature, and humidity. If you pick up your guitar and the action is different, the screws on the bridge didn't change themselves - the neck moved. Changing the action at the bridge is not the correct way to fix things. Make sure you get the proper exact tool for adjusting the truss rod so you don't strip it.

Maybe a quality full setup with your exact desires listed out would be a good idea if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. I had a shop shave down under my locking nut for this exact reason - outside of my comfort zone. Same thing with fret work - I don't want to do that. Adjusting stuff for setups though, I'm all good.
Guitars:
Jackson Kelly KE3 - MIJ (Distortion/Jazz)
Jackson DKMGT Dinky (EMG 81/85)
ESP E-II Eclipse Custom (JB/'59)
ESP LTD EC-1001FR (EMG 81/60)
Fender MIM Strat

Amps:
Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster 212
Laney IronHeart IRT-Studio
Peavey Vypyr 30
Peavey ReValver Amp Sims
TOOOO many T.C. Electronic Pedals. . .
#4
Quote by guitarkid8
What is your action at 1st fret low e/high e?


.75mm high E / 1.3mm on Low B (it's a 7 string)

Quote by guitarkid8
Capo the 1st and fret where the neck meets the body, or the last fret. Where is the most relief and what is it?


Clamping 1st and 19th (neck meets body) the action is highest at 6th fret and it's .75mm on the Low B string

Here's a pic shooting down the neck: http://imgur.com/4oDRSo4
#5
Seems a little high on both measurements. The relief is more of a feel thing, but I would straighten it out a little bit and see if you like it. I assume the guitar has a flatter radius more metal oriented, so typically a low action is preferred. Give the truss a very slight turn, I typically bend the neck back and fourth gently "Randy" style to free it up and then re-tune, measure, and play.

Once you like how it plays if the notes are still sharp look at the nut. Remove the clamps and loosen the strings, put them on ether side of the fretboard and remove the screws that hold the actual nut to the guitar. Grab a flat file and slowly remove material from the nut "shelf". Slowly. Periodically reinstall the nut and check the action at the 1st. I didn't pick up that it was a 7, sorry. On my 6 I prefer the action to be .5mm @1st fret low e/6th string. Never played a 7 so don't know how much more height it would require. I had .25mm and couldn't get much clarity/to much buzz for me personally, but everyone's setup is different. Good luck!
#6
Good news! I'm just going to say how I fixed it in case someone has the same issue and searches this.

So, I got the sandpaper ready to go. Loosen the strings, pull them to the side, unscrew the nut mounting screws and pull the nut off... 1 single shim falls off. I had no idea that it was under there. I figure I better see if that fixes it before I commit to shaving wood down. It did! 1 single .25mm shim under the nut was the issue.

Strings 1-6 are all within a few cents of true on all frets. The Low B is still going sharp by 5-6 cents on the first few so I might still shave a little off on that side of the neck but at least I know that the nut is the culprit.

Thanks to all that chimed in with comments and advice. Much appreciated. Thank you!