#1
Hello, guys! I have a problem with my Ibanez, so I need your opinion.
Here is my guitar: http://www.ibanez.com/products/eg_detail17.php?year=2017&area_id=3&cat_id=1&series_id=1&data_id=168&color=CL01
Mainly I play heavy music, so i'm using down-tunings, D standard or Drop C, and 11-54 strings, and there comes a problem.
Scale length is ok, note on 0 fret and on 12 is exaclty the same (except 6 string, note on 12 goes to sharp#), BUT in range of 0 to ~7 fret all notes goes sharper a bit, I can't hear it on clean sound, but when comes distortion- comes blood from my ears, I actually can't play with a comfort.

So I think it's because: 1) action is pretty high, like 2.5 mm for 6 string on 12 fret and 3 mm for 24
2) Neck can't bear strings with this thickness (but cmon, it's just a 11-54)

So, in your opinion, what could help me with this problem? I really love this guitar and really wanna her to sound perfect/
Thanks for responses.

p.s. I hope you understood me, english is not my native language.
#4
If you have level frets and a straight fretboard, "action," or the height of the bottom of the string to the fret, is determined by the nut and the bridge together.

If your action is overall too high, your notes will go sharp when you press the string to touch the fret.

In particular, if your nut slots are cut too high your notes will go sharp on frets 1-5. As an aside, this will also happen if you're pressing the string all the way down to the fretboard wood in between these frets. This is more likely to happen in this fret area because of the spacing of the frets; as you go higher on the neck where the fret spacing is closer, it's less likely that you'll be able to press the string all the way to the fretboards wood.

And if you try to lower the action by lowering the bridge *only,* you'll find that you have fret buzz on the upper part of the fretboard.

I'm guessing that what you're calling the anchor rod is actually the truss rod. Once adjusted properly, this should be left alone. Far too many people on these forums don't really understand why it's there. It's NOT to adjust string action, but to correct too much forward or backward bow in the neck when this occurs due to weather affecting the wood OR due to string gauge/string tension changes. There were years when neither Fender nor Martin even had them on their necks. the truss rod is also there to add a very slight bend (called "relief") to the neck to give open strings and strings fretted in the 1-5 fret area a bit more room to vibrate. But this relief should be on the order of .005" - .010", and professionals use a set of feeler gauges to set it accurately. There are "rule of thumb" and emergency options that are not as accurate, such as "a new playing card (from a deck of 52)," but there are people who set them by guess and by gosh, and these folks are all over the board. Relief is set after you have the action where you want it, and is not used to set the action itself. Setting this relief is usually done in quarters of a turn, no more. It's possible to break or strip the truss rod, so care is needed.
#5
Your guitar needs a proper setup. You can learn how to do those by reading the Setup Guide sticky here or lots of articles and videos elsewhere.
#6
Quote by nightfall1808
dspellman but when I turn out anchor rod, there comes a string noises. OR u mean that I need to chisel the nut?
Just to re-iterate one of the most important points in dspellman's post - the truss rod is NOT for adjusting the action. You should only be making tiny adustments to it, if you've been mucking around with it too much there is a chance you could have borked your guitar.

To adjust the action on your guitar you need a small allen wrench to adjust the grub screws on the individual saddles on the bridge.
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#7
Thanks for your responses! You helped me a lot.
I hope that I don't broke my guitar's neck :