#1
Similar to threads in other forums (like Guitar Gear & Accessories), this is a thread for anyone to ask a quick and simple question that probably doesn't need its own thread.

  • If you feel that a question is too small, trivial, or not worthy of a thread for whatever reason (perhaps you want a fast and easy answer!) then this is the place to ask. it

  • We have a small community here in Acoustic & Classical, but there are plenty of regular users who are knowledgeable and willing to help out.

  • Please include all the relevant information needed to answer the question (see examples below)

  • If you're going to give an answer, please try to keep it as short and sweet as possible


This thread will be moderated by myself and the elected moderators as necessary, just to remove clutter and keep everything streamlined.

Here are some sample questions that would belong in this thread:

"I just bought a capo, where do I put it in relation to the frets?"

"What does it mean when it says the top of the guitar is laminate?"

"Do tonewoods affect the sonic quality of the guitar or is it an illusion contributed by other factors?" (just kidding please don't ask this)


But we little know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may.
#2
I love the sound of low tunings on acoustic guitar, but i cant afford getting all kinds of strings to try on because i have to order them online. I'm currently with 13 gauge and i have quite a bit of fret buzz in b standard, but have perfect tension on d standard. What gauge might be tight enough to play b or a standard like that?
Last edited by lichbane1401 at Jan 28, 2017,
#3
lichbane1401 14s should be fine at a half step lower, if everything else on the guitar is fine and doesn't require a setup

Some manufacturers call them "heavy" (like D'addario)
But we little know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may.
#4
Hi, was wondering if anybody could recommend some beautiful classical spanishy stuff for me to have a go at. I have enjoyed learning Spanish Romance and Spansih Study. Thanks!
#5
Hey jessic168, your question might be better suited to having its own thread,
that way you can get many more suggestions hopefully.
But we little know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may.
#7
Quote by TROUnation
Does the type of material of the nut and pin affect the guitar's sound?


Damn dude that's like the tonewood question.

My answer is generally yes

Tony Done or Captaincranky can probably give more technical answers
But we little know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may.
#9
Dreadnought

Saddle, a confident yes. Pins, solely as a result of their mass, IMO, eg brass versus wood. Nut maybe on the open strings, I've never noticed a convincing effect.

Re the saddle, I once replaced a bone saddle with a Graphtech black, because the Graphtech had a nice metallic ring in a tap test. However, when I installed it, it killed the high transients and enhanced the mids. After a few weeks I went back to bone, much better to my ear. I'm currently using aluminium in a couple of guitars.
#10
Tony Done Hmm, ive been afraid of changing the pins and saddles, ive heard some materials can make your guitar sound like crap and I wasnt willing, mainly lazy to chance it, so I just stood with the good ol' plastic.
#12
Quote by Tony Done
Dreadnought

Saddle, a confident yes. Pins, solely as a result of their mass, IMO, eg brass versus wood. Nut maybe on the open strings, I've never noticed a convincing effect.

Re the saddle, I once replaced a bone saddle with a Graphtech black, because the Graphtech had a nice metallic ring in a tap test. However, when I installed it, it killed the high transients and enhanced the mids. After a few weeks I went back to bone, much better to my ear. I'm currently using aluminium in a couple of guitars.


This echoes my experience. I gave a short answer (trying to stick the nature of this thread ), but to expound I would say the pin material is nearly immaterial (heh), while the nut will enhance the open strings and saddle will alter all tonal qualities slightly.
But we little know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may.
#13
Recently, I've been looking into my guitar tone when recording. One problem I keep coming across is with my acoustic when strumming chords. If I strum with a pick, the tone is much too bright and thin, but if I strum with the flesh of my hands, then it's too muffled and makes chord voicings lose their...Well, voice.

I know this is rather subjective, but I'd like to know if anyone has any idea how to get a balanced acoustic guitar sound?
#14
SombraDLG what weight pick do you use? Maybe try moving to a different size or material of pick? Or try using the outside of your fingers (nails) instead of the flesh to get a brighter tone to your strumming
#15
Bobcot I've used a Fender thin pick (.50 mm), Fender medium (.73 mm), Tortex Jazz III (1.14 mm), and Jim Dunlop "Big Chubby" (3.0 mm) when it's come to trying to get a better tone with my acoustic.

And I may just have to get better at strumming with my nails. I did try it, it gave a me pretty nice sound.

Thanks for the reply, by the way!
#18
SombraDLG In addition to what others have suggested, you might try strumming a little higher up. I like a bright sound, so I strum pretty low (that is, near the bridge), but if you strum higher up near the top of the sound hole, you'll get a much darker sound.
Death to Ovation haters!
#20
Ok, this may be a bit of an odd one, but what does shaking your fingers on a fret do to the sound? I try to replicate it but I'm not hearing any change to the sound.

In case you don't know what I'm talking about, here's a video of some dude playing guitar. He does the shakey thing a lot at 3:13 onward. What does that do?

--EDIT-- Nevermind, I figured it out via experimentation :P
Last edited by HadlathBro at Mar 9, 2017,
#21
There ya go

it's called vibrato btw
But we little know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may.
#24
Quote by Cavalier25
What's the best way to master barre chords??.on acoustic??

Regardless of any other factor, barre chords are primarily a result of hand and grip strength. Improving both of those, and practicing barre chords first and foremost, will translate into being able to do them and hold them on almost any guitar.
But we little know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may.
#26
Okay so really stupid question. When you're reading a tab that says "capo on the first fret"..you play all the chords below that right?? Stupid I know but I'm a beginner 
#27
Hey! I'm trying to play this piece here, but the finger placement is so awkward that I can't really do it. Any tips?

-----------2------------2------------2---0---------------------------------
---0-------------------------------------------3--2---------2--------2-----
------4----------4------------4-----------------------4---------4----------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---2-----------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

My index finger is on the A string, my middle finger is on the G string, and my ring finger is on the high e string, for reference. I can play it that way, but it's really awkward and slows me down A LOT. Any better way?
Last edited by HadlathBro at Mar 10, 2017,
#28
Quote by Cavalier25
Okay so really stupid question. When you're reading a tab that says "capo on the first fret"..you play all the chords below that right?? Stupid I know but I'm a beginner 

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking, but usually tabs are written so that if you play the song with a capo on the first fret, everything else is written relative to that capo. For instance, something marked as on the 1st fret would actually be on the second fret of the fretboard, but first fret relative to the capo, which is the new open or 0 fret.
Quote by HadlathBro
Hey! I'm trying to play this piece here, but the finger placement is so awkward that I can't really do it. Any tips?

-----------2------------2------------2---0---------------------------------
---0-------------------------------------------3--2---------2--------2-----
------4----------4------------4-----------------------4---------4----------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---2-----------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

My index finger is on the A string, my middle finger is on the G string, and my ring finger is on the high e string, for reference. I can play it that way, but it's really awkward and slows me down A LOT. Any better way?

I recommend your index on the A, pinky finger on the G, and middle finger on the high E. That way you can keep your index and pinky in place, and play the 2 0 on the E and 3 2 on the B with the middle and ring finger. Worked well for me, and involves the least movement.
But we little know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may.
#29
Quote by Dreadnought
I recommend your index on the A, pinky finger on the G, and middle finger on the high E. That way you can keep your index and pinky in place, and play the 2 0 on the E and 3 2 on the B with the middle and ring finger. Worked well for me, and involves the least movement.

I don't know how you're pulling that off. I'm not able to put my ring finger on the high e with my index on the A and my pinky on G.

Could hand size be the problem here?
#30
HadlathBro hand size is probably not the issue (I have average or smaller than average hands for a 5 foot 10 inch man) and this isn't an issue for me, but you may have misread my fingerings. Here, I'll rewrite the tab with my recommended finger above it. 1 is index, 2 is middle finger, etc.

      1    4        2       4                2          4            2                  3    2      4           2      4         2

-----------2------------2------------2---0---------------------------------
---0-------------------------------------------3--2---------2--------2-----
------4--------4--------------4-----------------------4---------4----------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---2-----------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------- 


If that's difficult, it is simply an issue with your left hand strength and flexibility through your fingers.
But we little know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may.
#31
Quote by HadlathBro
Hey! I'm trying to play this piece here, but the finger placement is so awkward that I can't really do it. Any tips?

-----------2------------2------------2---0---------------------------------
---0-------------------------------------------3--2---------2--------2-----
------4----------4------------4-----------------------4---------4----------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---2-----------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

My index finger is on the A string, my middle finger is on the G string, and my ring finger is on the high e string, for reference. I can play it that way, but it's really awkward and slows me down A LOT. Any better way?

Hi HadlathBro

Basically the tab is within key of E chords.

Fret an E chord in the first position for the opening couplet and play 2 on A string, 0 on B string.
For the next sequence fret a partial B chord (xx4442) and play 4 on G string, 2 on E string alternating.
Then slide down to an A chord (x02220), playing open E string then the 3-2 sequence with the pinky on the B string
(basically an Asus4 to A progression).
Then slide back up the B for the final sequence.
#32
Hey, guys! 
I just saw this offer in my city in Germany for a "Pro Arte GC-100 M" made in Mittenwald, Bavaria. The dude wants 25€ for it( almost $27). The guitar looks in a very good shape.
Does anybody here has more information or experience with this guitar model?

Thanks in advance!
Rock on!

The Sniper of The Bass Militia . PM Indiemetalhead to join!.
#33
Quote by Bassist-E
Hey, guys! 
I just saw this offer in my city in Germany for a "Pro Arte GC-100 M" made in Mittenwald, Bavaria. The dude wants 25€ for it( almost $27). The guitar looks in a very good shape.
Does anybody here has more information or experience with this guitar model?

Thanks in advance!

It is a 7/8 size classical guitar - nothing special but OK. They sell new for around 165 euro so if the guitar is in good condition that is a good deal.
#34
Garthman Thanks for the reply! Sadly, some guy bought it right before I was able to send an E-Mail
Anyways: I found another interesting (I think?) deal:
Framus Bavaria...a Vintage 5/14 Rio, I assume? Or am I mistaken? 
The guy doesn't know much about the guitar and he told me that it was a gift he recieved a long time ago.
He wants 25€ for it.

The only picture he posted was this:





I'm going to check it out tomorrow. 
Any thoughts on this one?

Thanks a lot!
#35
Nice looking guitar. It is probably quite old - 60s or 70s - so it is quite likely that the top has bellied upwards due to the string tension over the years. It also looks as if someone has put a couple of bolts or screws through the bridge so the bridge may have lifted at some stage. Now that may be OK - I've fixed a bridge in a similar fashion on an inexpensive guitar for a friend and, as long as you don't mind seeing the screw tops, it can work fine. If the bridge has risen it might have reduced the break angle of the strings over the saddle - again you can offset that to some degree by using ball-end nylon strings which, if the action is high, would allow you to lower the saddle.

It might be worth risking it? 25 euro is not a huge sum. 
Last edited by Garthman at Mar 19, 2017,
#37
Bassist-E

OK - an update. I've done a web search on the 5/14 Rio and it seems that the bolted bridge was standard. There is one currently for sale on Worthpoint and they give dimensions and a good description which seem to indicate that the guitar is a 3/4 size model (perhaps 7/8?) and is also something of a hybrid with classical and steel string guitar features such as a bolt on neck (perhaps a truss rod?) - Framus used to make a few slot head steel string parlours so they may have used the same components. There is also a Youtube feature of one that has high action.

Here are the links:

http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/framus-rio-14-classical-guitar-465450618


Last edited by Garthman at Mar 21, 2017,