The LTD-jh600 is really the guitar I want to own, and it has a 42mm nut and a 350mm/14" radius fretboard.
Will this hinder playing at all? Seems not to bother Jeff Hanneman one bit. The Ibanez RG's and S prestiges that I'm also eyeing are the 16"430mm radius with 43mm nut.
that's really up for you to decide. people can play fast or play slow on just about anything.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
More important than the width of the nut is the string spacing that accompanies it. Gibson, for example, has had a 1 11/16ths" width (1.6875") nut specified for years, but the actual string spacing (thanks to nibs, etc., has been much closer to that of 1 5/8th" guitars. FWIW, a 42mm nut is about 1.653", a 43mm nut around 1.693. I'm good with either radius.
Thanks Dspellman. Gibson might be harder to play by the sounds of it. When I tried the LTD JH600 it felt like an extension of my body, but I've yet to try any RG prestiges or 550s since they weren't at Guitar center. For sure the indonesian Ibanez's are bad feeling. The laminated screen printed veneers look fake, the chrome looks like China town plastic and the frets are sharp and cut my fingers. Granted, I spent only minutes with the lower end and hated it. All I know is I like Japanese or Korean guitars.
Quote by AcousticMirror
that's really up for you to decide.

yeah pretty much. some people notice these things a lot, and some don't. Complicating it further is that some people notice some of them, and not others. I'm pretty acutely aware of the nut width (and the string spacing, as dspellman says, though gibsons usually feel to me like regular 43mm nut guitars ), but much less worried by the scale length (i notice it, but it doesn't really annoy me). Like dspellman I'm not sure 14" versus 16" would really annoy me. I can tell 7.25" pretty easily (vintage spec Fenders), and 9.5 (most modern spec fenders) or 10" feels a bit flatter but still fairly curved, but anything much over 12" feels more or less flat to me.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Hey guys, i forgot to update this thread!
I ended up getting an LTD JH-600 (has 42mm nut) Barre chords "MIGHT" be easier with smaller nut but really, i don't think 1mm will matter as my finger surely covers all of the strings and over the fretboard. 
I tend to worry about nut width a lot myself until I converted the metric to inches and discovered that 42 vs 43 mm is only a difference of .04 inches. I think it would be real hard to tell such a small difference. I think the neck radius is more important, tighter radius makes for easier chords and less for easier soloing and bends. I tend to try to stay around 12" myself because it is what I am used to and seems a good compromise.