#1
1. Do the claw screws need to be perfectly straight or can they be very slightly off?
2. what is the purpose of a string retainer? my guitar does not have one but what would adding one do?
3. I have a Jackson licensed Floyd bridge, if I upgrade to an original Floyd Rose will i need to do any routing or shit like that to make it fit or will it be the same size as my current one.
Thanks.
#2
1: I don't think so. I think having the trem balanced is more important. But I could be wrong.

2: I think it keeps pressure on the nut so the strings don't go sharp when you lock the clamps at the nut. Not super necessary I don't think, especially if your guitar doesn't already have one.

3: http://audiozone.dk/index-filer/TremoloInfoProject.htm (I haven't corroborated any of that info, I just know of the link.)
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#3
1. No you may need to set them slightly separate to get a perfect tension/balance across all 6 strings, but don't go wild they should be very close.

2. It's so that the nut clamps aren't playing any role in string tension/tuning, whether it's important depends on the design of the guitar and angle of the headstock. But for example when I lock the nuts on my locking trem guitars (I have 2) the tuning doesn't change at all, zero to extremely minimal tension change.. If it didn't have this retainer the tension difference on my guitars would be quite large when the nut clamps are locked.

3. I have no idea, it depends which Floyd design it is based on, I'm not familiar with Jacksons. Why do you feel the need to replace your trem?
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#4
Claw screw can be whatever you want, dissent matter. Typically more tension on the side of the thicker strings "side"

Jacksons have an angled headstock. Spring retainer are used on flatter headstocks. What happens is when you tune up without the clamp blocks on and it's in tune, if you don't have ether an angled headstock or retainer bar, when you clamp the blocks it pulls really sharp. The angled headstock you have doesn't require a bar.

Most Jackson trems are pretty good. Typically you can install an OFR drop in but depends on your particular trem.
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#5
Yeah that's a good point about the angled headstock thing- they're more necessary on some guitar styles than others (that being said Ibanez usually uses them and has angled headstocks). But yeah, I knew that but just sort of forgot.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

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Et tu, br00tz?
#6
Typically licensed Floyd Roses don't follow the exact design as an OFR or an FR 1000. That being said, sometimes the front cavity route might be routed slightly smaller than what an Original Floyd calls for. I ran into that problem with one of my budget Schecters. The best thing to do is measure it, and then compare it to the specs of the bridge you're planning on replacing it with.
#7
I've replaced the Floyd on an MIJ DK2M with a Schaller Lockmiester Floyd and it dropped right in without any modifications.

Jacksons don't really need retainer bars as the headstocks are already sufficiently angled back to more or less achieve the same thing a retainer bar would.
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#8
1. It's best to have them both as close to the same height as you can. The knife edges rock/rest in a groove and the more they are not aligned the more unstable your bridge will be. Plus it makes your bridge raise unevenly at a tilted angle. IMO it's just as important to have your Floyd as level as possible from side to side as it is to have it front to back.

2. The string retainer is used to keep the strings resting on the entire surface of the nut for they don't go sharp when you lock the nut. It can be a major pain in the ass trying to get your Floyd tuned & locked without one. They are usually only on guitars that do need them (it's rare to see one without). I have 2 Floyded guitars with angled headstocks (Schecter & Kramer Pointy) and they both need to have the retainer bar even though they are angled.

3. That's a case by case basis even with guitars that someone successfully installed/upgraded to an OFR from a licensed. I had an Ibanez that people claimed they successfully direct swapped out the Edge 3 with an OFR with no modifications to the body. I tried and the body would of needed routing done to it to fit the OFR. I sold the guitar instead. Most licensed Floyd's are shaped differently (especially the base plate) and some of them have a different post spacing. If the base plate has a different dimension and the right post spacing and you have a recessed Floyd, you may need to modify the body. If you have a decked/top mounted Floyd guitar in the same situation, you can more than likely drop it straight in. Top mounted Floyd guitars are more upgrade friendly than a recessed Floyd Guitar. It's the cavity that causes most of the upgrade problems since they are carved to fit the licensed Floyd dimensions snugly.