#1
I play with my alternative rock band a lot and I've noticed that in a lot of our songs I could probably kick into overdrive at some points. I already borrow an OD when playing in a band that I'm in that plays covers (organized by a teacher).

With my alt rock band I use a Peavey Transitor amp, at about 50 watts (I'm not sure which kind, it's not mine).

I play through a Peavey 30s Classic Tweed tube or a Marshall tube head and Marshall cab (not sure what model) in my other band.

I am also considering purchasing a Boss Katana for practice.

I play a lot of classic rock covers and have a taste for bluesy sounds. I found all three of these pedals used for about $30! Considering I was looking at $100 dollars before and I'm in high school this seemed like a steal. Which would you recommend?
#3
I only have experience with the Bad Monkey of the pedals listed. Although you can get a decent sound out of it, it's a bit fiddlie. The dials are very sensitive in a cheap way. Small adjustments can result in big changes which I don't like. Mine lays in a corner and collects dust. It's really good at that.
Dean Icon PZ
Line 6 Variax 700
Dean V-Wing
Dean ML 79 SilverBurst
MXR M 108
H2O Chorus/Echo
Valve Junior (V3 Head/Cab and Combo)
VHT Special 6
Phonic 620 Power Pod PA
Wampler Super Plextortion
Line 6 Pod HD
#4
Not the Green Monkey - it's buffer was horrible. Check out a Joyo Vintage Overdrive from Amazon for $30 New. It's a great overdrive.
Guitars:
Ibanez RG1570 Prestige
Jackson Kelly KE3 - MIJ (Distortion/Jazz)
Jackson DKMGT Dinky (EMG 81/85)
ESP E-II Eclipse Custom (JB/'59)
ESP LTD EC-1001FR (EMG 81/60)
Fender MIM Strat

Amps:
Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster 212
Laney IronHeart IRT-Studio
Peavey Vypyr 30
Peavey ReValver Amp Sims
TOOOO many T.C. Electronic Pedals. . .
#5
The Bad Monkey is a bit of a tone sucker, Of those three, I would take the SD1 personally.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#6
Joyo pedal mentioned is a good option. If you up the budget a bit more you can get a used digitech cm-2 which is the high end versiversion of the bad monkey.
#7
I've had bad experiences with Joyo products. Their QC is hit and miss.
My favorite OD is the Toyroom OD1+. It's an OD1 with a better tone control. If you contact Tim, I'm sure he could knock one up for you.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#8
Out of those 3, Joyo easily. Don't like the SD-1 and the buffer in the Bad Monkey is awful.

If a bigger budget was available, Green Rhino all day.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



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#9
Out of those I would get the TS7 or spend $20 more and get a new GFS Greenie Classic.  
#10
Joyo Vintage OD is much better than Boss SD-1 to me, especially for bluesy stuff. Sd-1 sounds lifeless and dull
#11
I'd consider the EHX East River Drive, which I believe can usually be had secondhand for almost Joyo money and which I'd have a tad more faith in. TS7 or SD-1 are reasonable enough options (especially for $30) and, as mentioned, if you can stretch the Green Rhino is good. If you must absolutely cheap out then Joyo over Bad Monkey for sure.
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#12
You can get a used Hardwire CM-2 at the price or less of what was a new Bad monkey (<or= to $50). 
Charvel So-Cal (SH6TB/N, killswitch), Jackson RR5FR (TB6/Jazz, Drop C). Joyo pxl pro.
Loop1=Crybaby from hell, Boss PS-5, Seymour Duncan 805 or Green Rhino, EQD Hoof or Earthbound Audio Super Collider. Loop 1 into ISP Decimator II.
Loop 2 (FX loop)-Line6 M9, TC Spark Mini. Loop 2 into mxr 10band. All into a Peavey Triple XXX 212, Ibanez IL15.
#13
all of those are pretty good... i'd possibly skip the bad monkey, it can sound a little muffled. the sd1 is awesome, but some have bypass bleed when the gain is up- cured with another buffered pedal in front but if you don't have another buffered pedal suddenly that cheap pedal got a lot more expensive . I haven't tried the ts7 but as far as i'm aware it's just a tubescreamer so should be a good pedal.

Quote by Cathbard
I've had bad experiences with Joyo products. Their QC is hit and miss.
My favorite OD is the Toyroom OD1+. It's an OD1 with a better tone control. If you contact Tim, I'm sure he could knock one up for you.


so you mean it has a tone control?

Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'd consider the EHX East River Drive, which I believe can usually be had secondhand for almost Joyo money and which I'd have a tad more faith in. TS7 or SD-1 are reasonable enough options (especially for $30) and, as mentioned, if you can stretch the Green Rhino is good. If you must absolutely cheap out then Joyo over Bad Monkey for sure.


i thought ehx has a pretty crappy record for reliability too? i know on the fretboard forum they're always talking about it.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

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Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at May 22, 2017,
#14
Quote by Dave_Mc
i thought ehx has a pretty crappy record for reliability too? i know on the fretboard forum they're always talking about it.
So you have said - I couldn't tell you. I don't have that impression personally, but it is quite simply beyond my means to tell you that they are reliable or that they are not because I have nothing like the sample size within my personal experience to comment on reliability, either individually or in comparison to other brands. What I can say is that the bits on the EHX pedals that are likely to fail if anything does - switch, jacks, pots - at least appear relatively accessible and standard, and thus replaceable.
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#15
For 24/7 boost that is never turned off, Bad Monkey is excellent. The bad buffer only applies when you turn it off, then it sucks tone a bit. But I like it a lot for tightening up metal riffs and it is quite noise free too. It does not care much if you have a shitty universal power adapter or a proper pedal power station.

Boss SD-1 is good too but I find it noisier than Bad Monkey, it is very sensitive to bad power supplies. Either battery or good power adapter is required. Mine also does not boost as hard as Bad Monkey but it does have its own rougher tone that is a bit different from typical tubescreamer clones.

ESP LTD F-50 + Tonezone
Cort EVL-Z4 + X2N
Cort EVL-K47B

Marshall Valvestate 8100
Randall RG1503
Bugera 333
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Line6 Pod X3
#16
I have both the Bad Monkey and Ibanez TS7.  I don't have tone suck issues with either of them.
Gear: Gibson Les Paul Studio, Gibson SG Special, Fender Stratocaster, Fender Telecaster, Fender Jazzmaster, Gretsch Pro Jet, Carvin C350, Epiphone ES-339 P90, Epiphone ES-335 Pro. Peavey 6505, Sovtek MIG-100, Vox AC30, Peavey XXX.
#17
I have a lot of Ibanez TS pedals (see pic of one of my pedal drawers). The TS7 is just as good as a TS10 which is my favorite TS pedal. The Bad Monkey is OK but I like the TS pedals more.

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#18
diajkeene
Joyo Vintage Overdrive $22 - $40 on ebay brand new.
Here's Pavlicks little brothers demo.
Last edited by 33db at May 22, 2017,
#19
Quote by Rickholly74
I have a lot of Ibanez TS pedals (see pic of one of my pedal drawers). The TS7 is just as good as a TS10 which is my favorite TS pedal. The Bad Monkey is OK but I like the TS pedals more.


Do you hook them all up at the same time? I'd watch that video.
#20
Cathbard 

I see the BM and SD-1 (I have both)  as two different beasts. The BM is a smooth type of clipping, the SD-1 is rough and gritty, and relatively touch-insensitive. I think there is a place for both. The BM gets a bad wrap as a tone sucker, so I tried running mine through a bypass loop (a Boss LS-2), and flicking between the bypass and the switched-off pedal. I couldn't hear any difference through my very bright amp.
#21
Quote by 33db
Do you hook them all up at the same time? I'd watch that video.

Nice idea. Maybe I'll do a video like that. 
Yes I am guitarded also, nice to meet you.
#22
Sound wise they are all pretty similar, the bad monkeys buffer is worse, but the bass control can come in handy. Other than that it's very close to the TS7. The SD1 is similar to the TS7 but the clipping sounds different - neither one is really better or worse than the other, but all things considered I prefer the TS7.

Joyo, EHX, mooer, biyang and others all make pretty similar tubescreamer clones on the cheap. The differences between them and the ibanez/maxon tubescreamers [apart from build quality and quality control] is slight. For $30 I'd take the TS7.
RIP Gooze

cats
#23
+1 for the Digitech Hardwire CM2, its a damn fine Tubescreamer-y overdrive, especially if you're using humbuckers and single coils.

The Boss Blues Driver works magic on a solid state amp too, imo, and can be had for bout $50 used in the US...though I'd probably sport the CM2 over the BD2.
Fender Mustang/Derfenstein DST> Boss Power Wah> Pedal Monsters Klone> Bogner Uberschall> Walrus Audio Janus> Randall RM20> Line 6 M9> Randall RM20
#24
Joyo Vintage cost less and sounds great through a Quilter SS amp, the money you save you can buy Joyo's JF-02 Ultimate Drive OCD style drive too.
That's the last time I'll mention it.
#25
Quote by K33nbl4d3
So you have said - I couldn't tell you. I don't have that impression personally, but it is quite simply beyond my means to tell you that they are reliable or that they are not because I have nothing like the sample size within my personal experience to comment on reliability, either individually or in comparison to other brands. What I can say is that the bits on the EHX pedals that are likely to fail if anything does - switch, jacks, pots - at least appear relatively accessible and standard, and thus replaceable.


yeah it's beyond my abilities too, i'm not very mechanical or technical I seem to remember people talking about switches disintegrating etc.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#26
Quote by lucky1978

The Boss Blues Driver works magic on a solid state amp too, imo, and can be had for bout $50 used in the US...though I'd probably sport the CM2 over the BD2.


the digitech screamin' blues is a glorified clone, so there's an even cheaper option available, too.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#27
Every EHX pedal I've used (which is about 4) makes a very loud click through the speakers when switching it on or off.
Because of that I avoid EHX like the plague.
#28
I love the Monkey. I use the 'mixer out' even into an amp. I have a TS7, too. The switches on those tend to die after a few years, although I love the tone. 
#29
I did another test of BM "tone suck" yesterday, using a passive bypass loop instead of the LS-2. I could hear absolutely no difference between the bypass and the switched-off BM with the guitar (my  prewar Rick lap steel) and amp (H&K ST Dual El84) set clean and bright. Maybe the BM bypass effect varied between versions, dates, whatever of the BM. Or maybe it is suffering a case of wikiwisdom and inherited knowledge
Last edited by Tony Done at May 23, 2017,
#30
I do still own the Bad Monkey. It's a tubescreamer clone, not an SD1.
When off it certainly sucks out some top end. When I was using it I had to run treble and presence much higher than without it. I don't know what to say, maybe you got a good one.


Dave, it's a tone control that Matt designed.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#31
^ oh ok
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#32
Quote by Tony Done
I did another test of BM "tone suck" yesterday, using a passive bypass loop instead of the LS-2. I could hear absolutely no difference between the bypass and the switched-off BM with the guitar (my  prewar Rick lap steel) and amp (H&K ST Dual El84) set clean and bright. Maybe the BM bypass effect varied between versions, dates, whatever of the BM. Or maybe it is suffering a case of wikiwisdom and inherited knowledge

Was another buffered pedal in the chain before the BM?

The signal is a lot less susceptible to tone suckage when the signal is already made low-impedance by another buffer earlier in the chain.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



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#33
T00DEEPBLUE 

No, I thought of that beforehand, just the BM in a passive bypass loop straight to the amp, clean and bright. My best guess is that specs changed over time, and maybe there is some non-audible change in the signal, like output impedance that affects some other pedals or amps. Not sure how old mine is, maybe eight years.

I'll have another go with a different guitar and the other amp.

EDIT It would be good if someone else could try it using the bypass method. You can flick between the two while a note is still ringing, and with a passive loop there is no volume issue to confuse it.

EDIT AGAIN I gave it another try, through both amps using the middle coil in my HSH strat, which is about vintage weight.

The Epi VJ has been highly modded, and has two bright switches, among other things. If you switch them both on it has an extreme treble output that isn't pleasant to the ear. I tried the BM with this. This amp picked up near-white rf noise from the guitar (the kind that stops when you touch the strings) and switching to the BM in lowered the pitch of this noise, indicating tone suck. However, I couldn't hear much difference when I played the guitar, just a tiny change in the quality of the sound when I flicked between bypass and BM on a sustained note. I couldn't here any difference at all with normal playing. OTOH, when I tried it with the H&K, also set bright, the very small amount of white noise I could hear seemed to increase in pitch through the BM compared to bypass. Whatever the tone suck is in the BM, it's certainly elusive.
Last edited by Tony Done at May 27, 2017,