#1
I have bought a brand new EC 10 and it came with a .10 gauge daddario string set but I changed the strings to .09 gauge EB slinky.. and from next day onwards, 4 to 9th fret of B (and G and E) string started buzzing so I had to increase the string action. It's kinda uncomfortable to play it this way.. I did some research and found that lower gauge strings cause less tension which creates a back bow and I need to now adjust the truss rod (1/4th of a circle). My concern is, before adjusting the truss rod, shall I lower down the bridge to factory settings first or straight away adjust the truss?

In my personal opinion, I should adjust the bridge to factory settings first and then adjust the truss to counter the fret buzz accordingly right?

I think this little detail of what to adjust first (if the bridge has already been raised once) is crucial and often overlooked by almost all the forums!

Please feel free to suggest any other remedy too!
#2
ESP does a good job explaining things in their manual.  I'm thinking that you will need to lower the bridge again after you fix the truss rod - you adjusted the wrong thing to fix your issue.  
Guitars:
Jackson Kelly KE3 - MIJ (Distortion/Jazz)
Jackson DKMGT Dinky (EMG 81/85)
ESP E-II Eclipse Custom (JB/'59)
ESP LTD EC-1001FR (EMG 81/60)
Fender MIM Strat

Amps:
Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster 212
Laney IronHeart IRT-Studio
Peavey Vypyr 30
Peavey ReValver Amp Sims
TOOOO many T.C. Electronic Pedals. . .
#3
I would check the neck relief and adjust accordingly. I'm guesstimating that ESP has some general set-up spec's..... neck relief, string height, pup height... at their site. I would start with those then tweak as desired.
#4
metalmingee
So shouldn't I first undo the thing I did wrong? And after clearing my sins, I can do the right adjustment, that is, adjust the truss rod! What do you think?
#5
Guitaraxe
Yes they do! That's why I'm saying that I shall first undo the height adjustment of the bridge back to what is suggested by ESP. And since bridge height is the only thing that I have changed, maybe then I could start messing around with the truss rod!
#6
Quote by manan-a380
Guitaraxe
Yes they do! That's why I'm saying that I shall first undo the height adjustment of the bridge back to what is suggested by ESP. And since bridge height is the only thing that I have changed, maybe then I could start messing around with the truss rod!


This is what *I* would do. When you loosen the truss rod (reducing the back bow), the headstock will come up slightly and the bridge will find itself in good shape. You want to check the "relief" ideally with an 18" aluminum straight edge and feeler gauges somewhere around the 7th fret. Remember that you really don't want to adjust the truss rod more than about 1/4 turn at a time, and you want to tune the guitar up and let it settle in for a bit before doing all your measurements.
#7
Quote by manan-a380
Guitaraxe
Yes they do! That's why I'm saying that I shall first undo the height adjustment of the bridge back to what is suggested by ESP. And since bridge height is the only thing that I have changed, maybe then I could start messing around with the truss rod!


Ya, That's cool.
#8
Guitaraxethanks
Also it's worth noting that the fret buzz is only up to 11th fret, which is kind of the exact place where the neck bow usually occurs!
Last edited by manan-a380 at Jun 12, 2017,
#10
Exactly what dspellman said.  
Guitars:
Jackson Kelly KE3 - MIJ (Distortion/Jazz)
Jackson DKMGT Dinky (EMG 81/85)
ESP E-II Eclipse Custom (JB/'59)
ESP LTD EC-1001FR (EMG 81/60)
Fender MIM Strat

Amps:
Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster 212
Laney IronHeart IRT-Studio
Peavey Vypyr 30
Peavey ReValver Amp Sims
TOOOO many T.C. Electronic Pedals. . .