Hi there

I got a new Gib 45 and i find that it buzzer quite easy and i need much more pressure than im used to pressing down the strings.  The truss is good with relief at .010" and the lower E is around 7/64

The guy in the store said he had tuned it a week ago but i asked him to raise the action cause it buzzed and when i checked he had shimmed it with 2 paper strips. I removed those and it sat at 7/64 that i asked for so it wasnt needed and you shouldnt use paper.

Im guessing its the nut so i need to get that down. Anyone got a gib 45 that has the measuments for the nut? 

Other than that im super happy with it! 

You can check the nut height by pressing the string down between the 2nd and 3rd frets. There should be almost no gap between the 1st fret and the string - some of mine are so low that you can only tell that there is a gap by tapping the string and listening for the click. There are a few where the string actually touches the 1st fret on this test, but I wouldn't re comment that to anyone else since it can easily lead to fret buzzing.
Tony Done Thanks Tony!  Had a feel and check for a click, quite a bit above. I managed to finally find my feeler gauges and I had bit more of a close look too. I see its about a .007-008" gap which i find to be rather big and around .24 unfretted which is right above where the inspection checklist says at .23.

Ill be bringing it in tomorrow for a bit of filing. Then i hope this beauty will be perfect!
trigenetic Although it may sound rather far fetched, if the guitars action is at the correct height, and you still have to push like hell to make it stop buzzing, the frets could be too shallow. In other words, your fingers hit the board, before there is sufficient pressure between the string and the fret.

Since Gibson does a "pleck job" on their guitars, it is entirely possible the the machine operator could have gone, 'asleep at the wheel', so to speak, and ground the frets too far down overall.

Keep in mind strings bend above the fretted noted, and another possibility is the added fretting pressure is lifting the strings high enough over the fret above to stop the buzz.

With shallow frets, I'm also going to assume good callouses on your fingers would be essential. Simply by virtue of the fact that a harder callous, would prevent the the fingertip from squeezing around the string and hitting the finger board.

OK, so some of this is perhaps a bit uncommon or even far fetched. With that in mind, you aren't exactly describing common issues either.

Something you might do as part of the diagnostic process, is to put a tuner which reads in cents on the guitar, to find out how sharp you're pulling the strings before they stop buzzing. If you have any other acoustics, perform the same test on those, and compare the results.

EDIT: I suppose another question I should have asked is, what type of guitar are you used to playing. We do get a lot of complaints from guys switching over to acoustics to electrics. OTOH, if the Gibson is something you've treated yourself to after playing acoustics for years, then we do have a problem.
Last edited by Captaincranky at Jun 17, 2017,
Captaincranky Thank you for the detailed reply!  

Im used to playing a Morgan 510 sce acoustic. Ive played on and off for years but the last 2 months every day for a couple of hours.

I took it to the Luthier and she thought it was quite hard to play too. She had a look at it and set the relief to about .007 changed the strings to a different brand (i forgot to ask wich but i trust her) and the new action is about 6/64th on the low e and the nut at about .020 . Then she buffed the neck down so it dont stick. She was going to do a custom saddle too but decided not to do it now and wait for winter. In the end i just payed $20. Gotta love these small family shops.

Its now much better to play but i still find its slightly stiff and harder to fret on the first than my Morgan w510 at .010 relief 7/64th and .20 on the first fret. ill give it a week or two and see if it changes at all. I dont think she did anything on the nut as she said it looked to spec. 
Last edited by trigenetic at Jun 17, 2017,
Keep reading that the J45 is kind of stiff so i guess thats a large part of it.  Love the sound so ill live with that. Any tips to make it less so are welcome though
Last edited by trigenetic at Jun 17, 2017,
Quote by trigenetic
Keep reading that the J45 is kind of stiff so i guess thats a large part of it.  Love the sound so ill live with that. Any tips to make it less so are welcome though
Well, yeah I do have tips to make it easier to play, but unfortunately, they would alter the sound in the process. Obviously, you could string the guitar with lighter strings. Perhaps "custom light", which are usually .011 to .052. But, they're going to be thinner sounding than what you're (likely) using now. "Brass" strings, or as they're called "80/20 alloy" bend easier than the Phosphor bronze most players are using, and consequently fret somewhat easier. The tonality is fair amount different from PB, be forewarned.

A word of caution though, in case you decide to attack the nut again. Saddles are easily replaced should you grind one down too far. Top nuts, OTOH are a pain in the ass to replace. A word to the wise.