#1
On my ibanez rg550xh ...i am trying to get lowest tension possible with obvious conditions.. i wanna know how low is actually possible ... i mean my ibanez has got 30 frets so .. low e in 27 fret buzzes when i clean it the action is too uncomfortable for me ... like is 1.5mm actually required.?.. i really cant play on that high actio plz.. enlighten me here bros. Or atleast tell me wht action u have .. attach a clear picture of your action if anybody can it'll be vry helpful
#3
Quote by srijan.rv
On my ibanez rg550xh ...i am trying to get lowest tension possible with obvious conditions.. i wanna know how low is actually possible ... i mean my ibanez has got 30 frets so .. low e in 27 fret buzzes when i clean it the action is too uncomfortable for me ... like is 1.5mm actually required.?.. i really cant play on that high actio plz.. enlighten me here bros. Or atleast tell me wht action u have .. attach a clear picture of your action if anybody can it'll be vry helpful


I've posted this before, but Carvin (now Kiesel) used to advertise action "as low as 1/16th" at the 24th fret with no buzzing frets."
If you're there, low action at the 30th fret should be no big deal.
I like pretty low action, so I've had several of my guitars run through Gary Brawer's (San Francisco) PLEK, and I've had the frets superglued. The latter is to prevent them moving around as the weather changes, and it works very well. That's what has to happen with these, which are 36-fret:

#4
dspellman how do i get that low plz give me tips for setup .. action is just ruining my experience. If i lower the bridge solely it will buzz for sure at this stage .. plz tell me whts going on
#6
Quote by srijan.rv
dspellman  how do i get that low plz give me tips for setup .. action is just ruining my experience. If i lower the bridge solely it will buzz for sure at this stage .. plz tell me whts going on

Getting super low action without any buzzing starts with establishing if the frets on the guitar are perfectly level with one another. Otherwise, you'll get lots of fret buzz, particularly in areas of the fretboard where one fret is sitting slightly taller than the neighbouring frets, as it causes all the other frets behind it to choke out. Generally mass produced, affordable guitars do not have anywhere near perfect fret levelling. You'll need to take your guitar into a tech to perform some fretwork to get the frets sanded down so that they are all level with the neighbouring frets.

Then you need to learn how to set up the guitar yourself. Don't get someone else to set the guitar up for you; when you're playing with such a low action, any variation in playing style can make a huge difference to how much the frets buzz. Everybody plays guitar differently, so only you will really know how the guitar needs to be set up for your personal style of play.

Start with taking the guitar to a tech first who knows how to do fretwork.
Quote by srijan.rv
srijan.rvalso what exactlt does 1/16 mean?

1/16" of an inch. In metric, that's 1.58mm.
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#7
T00DEEPBLUEso u saying 1.5mm something is least possible .. cause it cleans out buzz(obviously it will.. its high enough) but cant action go so lower that the distance is just about touch away .. like i dont want to press i just want to touch .. i have scalloped my finger board anyways so..
#8
Quote by srijan.rv
T00DEEPBLUEso u saying 1.5mm something is least possible .. cause it cleans out buzz(obviously it will.. its high enough) but  cant action go so lower that the distance is just about touch away .. like i dont want to press i just want to touch .. i have scalloped my finger board anyways so..

There has to be some degree of height for the strings to vibrate, otherwise the guitar just doesn't play.

Getting low action on a guitar is all about nailing a perfect compromise between allowing the player to fret as lightly as possible, making intonation as accurate as possible, while still allowing enough string height for the strings to vibrate freely without buzzing.

Scalloping the fretboard has absolutely nothing to do with action.
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I also have to do that. Cottaging this weekend
#9
1-1.5 is pretty low. scolloping doesn't really have any effect on the action.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
#12
Quote by srijan.rv
T00DEEPBLUEi considered scalloping here .. because here i have to make fragile press .. so does picking strenght too affects buzzing?

How hard you pick absolutely does affect how much buzz you get. Players who only pick very lightly are able to get away with a lower action and a straighter neck than those who pick harder.

This is why getting a guitar set up is such a subjective thing, as everybody plays guitar differently, thus it would make sense to propose that the guitar is to be set up specifically for the needs of the person playing it. That's why learning how to set the guitar up yourself is so important.
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I also have to do that. Cottaging this weekend
#13
T00DEEPBLUE totally agree. I did ealk on that path n i think there is some thing wrong in my truss rod adjustment .. what i did is totally reset my guitar thruss was totally loosened, removed all strings (no tension remaining now).. and redid everything .. so after that m getting this high action problem.. before that it eas pretty comfortable for me ... what should i do now . Guitar shop is no way near ... i dnt wanna visit anyways i wanna do on my own
Last edited by srijan.rv at Jun 19, 2017,
#14
Quote by srijan.rv
T00DEEPBLUE totally agree. I did ealk on that path n i think there is some thing wrong in my truss rod adjustment .. what i did is totally reset my guitar thruss was totally loosened, removed all strings (no tension remaining now).. and redid everything .. so after that m getting this high action problem.. before that it eas pretty comfortable for me ... what should i do now . Guitar shop is no way near ... i dnt wanna visit anyways i wanna do on my own



How to make truss rod adjustments:

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/lessons/the_guide_to/truss_rod_tips.html

Absorb all this information and you'll be a guitar setup expert.
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#15
T00DEEPBLUEor about a month and half im having this problem .. after totally setting up everything the action of D string is little higher than G string .. or more precisely the 3 high strings feel lower than lo strings (enough to fuck the experience, i mean all string collectivly should feel like a arc right? ). If i increase the action on high e side it just increses the distance ,does not solve the problem . I have checked trem is properly parallel to body. I changed the whole string set too .. no +ve results... also, i figured the trem slightly shifts in the direction i turn the pivots on trem like if i turn clockwise it goes a little left and vice vers ,does this effects it?( how solve if this is the problem?) M just guessing if i would have guessed right the problem wont have existed... n the diffrence starts from around 12th fret and goes all the way to 30th fret..
#16
What you're describing in regards to the first 3 strings having a lower action than the 4-6th strings is perfectly normal. The action of the 1st string is typically set lower than the 6th string for optimal playability, which consequently affects the action of all the other strings in the fashion that you're describing. The string radius (the arc) itself hasn't changed and it shouldn't change.

Moving the bridge studs up and down will naturally cause the bridge to shift left and right a bit, but that has no real impact on the problem you mentioned before and you shouldn't be adjusting the action with the strings and springs under tension anyway. You should always slack off all the strings and take the springs out with every action adjustment you make. In order for the bridge to stay in tune, the knife edges that contact the bridge studs which causes the bridge to pivot back and forth need to be as sharp as possible to keep friction in that area to a minimum. By adjusting the bridge studs with the strings and springs exerting tension on the bridge, you're causing the studs to grind away the sharp knife edges that are needed to keep the bridge in tune with dives and pull ups.
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#17
Quote by srijan.rv
T00DEEPBLUEor about a month and half im having this problem .. after totally setting up everything the action of D string is little higher than G string .. or more precisely the 3 high strings feel lower than lo strings (enough to fuck the experience, i mean all string collectivly should feel like a arc right? ). If i increase the action on high e side it just increses the distance ,does not solve the problem . I have checked trem is properly parallel to body. I changed the whole string set too .. no +ve results... also, i figured the trem slightly shifts in the direction i turn the pivots on trem like if i turn clockwise it goes a little left and vice vers ,does this effects it?( how solve if this is the problem?) M just guessing if i would have guessed right the problem wont have existed... n the diffrence starts from around 12th fret and goes all the way to 30th fret..


In theory, the *bottom* of your strings should follow the radius of your fretboard. There are understring radius gauges that will help with this. http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Necks_and_Fingerboards/Understring_Radius_Gauges.html By scalloping your fretboard, you've fucked your fretboard radius, but hopefully your frets are still following the same radius as one another, and THAT radius can be determined from the frets themselves. It's the underside radius that matters, not the "feel" of the top.

Since the bass side strings are larger, the "arc" on the top of the strings will flatten out a bit compared to the underside, and that's normal. If you need to adjust individual saddles to raise or lower individual strings, there are shims that can be added to a Floyd to compensate. The nut may need to be tweaked as well. I have 16" and 20" radius fretboards on guitars with Floyds, so it's all doable.

There's a lot to a setup that you should be aware of -- there's a book called "How to make your electric guitar play great" by Dan Erlewine that will get you up to speed on the intricacies of setups, and it's probably the best $20 you'll spend on your guitar (the book is available on Amazon and elsewhere).

BTW, 1/16th" is 1/16th of an inch, and action that low at the 24th fret (not the 12th) with no buzzing requires fretwork and quality setup of the first order.

You had another question about picking and buzzing -- if you have a low action, you're not going to be wanting to hammer the strings with a pick. You'll carry your light touch there as well. My old guitar teacher told me, "Let the pickups do the work." There are plenty of dynamics available. I use a very stiff pick (a Gravity Picks Razer Standard in 2mm thickness) with a sharp point. You won't get the same results with a thin flexible pick.
Last edited by dspellman at Jun 28, 2017,
#19
dspellman thnks for your time bro... i have almost resolved .. just one more query... i see that i have bolt on neck that joins from 20th fret to the body.. i dnt why but this area feels a little higher .. after 20th fret .. that cause buzzing on bass strings .. my main problem is buzzing in these area ... if i increase action man that is unbearable.some other solution? I dnt wanna adjust truss rod anymore too its just perfect .. truss rod anyways cant reach that higher fret..
#20
Quote by srijan.rv
dspellman i have sanded the frets too .. no too harshly ... so u are saying my fret board is of no use now because of scalloping?


No; your fretboard exists to hold the frets, and if it's doing that you're fine. On occasion, the fretboard radius and the radius of the top of the frets are different (trust me, there are ways of accomplishing this). In your case, there's not really a way of determining the original fretboard radius. There's also this: on some guitars, a scalloped fretboard makes refretting the guitar dangerous or impossible.

As for the frets; if you don't know what you're doing with the fret sanding, you may *create* a set of frets that are not level. If you PLEK a guitar, the frets are leveled with a precision of about a thousandth of an inch, and they're done so with the guitar tuned to pitch (necks do not necessarily come up to tension evenly, which is why a manual fret level which can NOT level the frets with the guitar under string tension, may not be particularly precise). Chances are really good that you sanded more than a thousandth of an inch off your frets here and there, and that your frets are no longer level.
Last edited by dspellman at Jun 28, 2017,
#21
Quote by srijan.rv
dspellman thnks for your time bro... i have almost resolved .. just one more query... i see that i have bolt on neck that joins from 20th fret to the body.. i dnt why but this area feels a little higher .. after 20th fret .. that cause buzzing on bass strings .. my main problem is buzzing in these area ... if i increase action man that is unbearable.some other solution? I dnt wanna adjust truss rod anymore too its just perfect .. truss rod anyways cant reach that higher fret..


You're right, you're not going to make a truss rod adjustment that comes anywhere near a 30th fret. I've come to refer to the area past the guitar/neck join "the Gibson Hump." It's often higher than the rest of the fretboard and causes problems. Again, an accurate fret leveling will take care of that (you might inquire about a PLEK job if you really want to be using 30 frets).
#22
dspellman see this is situation now.. i m not stupid m playing for about 2 years i pretty much understand those things already u are telling .. and believe me there is nothing wrong with the fret . I know the pressure i used i was just to remove the rusrt dome frets got.. so no problem there i am again telling g string feels irritatingly lill loose that string problem.. is it normal for g string to be loose?? Also i got a solution from the book u suggested . It said i can remove 20th fret above buzzez by adding a shim in my bolt on neck. Like by literally giving a slight angle to neck ( headstock will move up tiny tiny distance) that way i can get upto 30 frets with low action .. wht do you think?
#24
dspellman imagine playing E minr pntatnic on 12 fret... so does transition from bass to treble string feels atleast not arc in between D abd G string? Like when i jump from G to D i really feelthe elevation i have to take for bass strings... is this just how it is or somethibg's wrong?
#25
Quote by srijan.rv
dspellman imagine playing E minr pntatnic on 12 fret... so does transition from bass to treble string feels atleast not arc in between D abd G string? Like when i jump from G to D i really feelthe elevation i have to take for bass strings... is this just how it is or somethibg's wrong?


The *bottom* of the strings should follow the arc of the radius of the neck. As the strings get thicker, they won't follow the same arc, and you may very well notice a jump in "elevation." The first thing you need to do is get the guitar set up properly so that the bottoms of the strings DO follow the radius; then see what you have. If you buy "thick bottom" strings, you'll have more of a discrepancy than if you use standard sets.
#26
dspellman i havnt scalloped after 22 frets ... dont have a guage too.. how should i measure any unconventional way? Also everything is very good now.. it totallyy disassembeled and reset .. did everything from scratch.. now i have 1.2 something in bass E i never imagined i could go this low... only 2 3 frets buzz at higher fret(bearable) ... only heavy strings feel elevtaed... u knw wht i think arc at bottom is not the is nt the problem.. anyway tell me some way without gauge to check it out... i also see D string has more action than anyother string.. when the A string has most tension in tune that string feels highest even from low E .. do ya think something to do with tension? Cause i think so.... also i have ernie ball 10's .. in which high e broke anf has a .009 there now
#27
dspellman on my edge II one of the pivot on trem arm side is pulled forward by string tension and the left one is in place so it is easy to say the two pivots are not on same line ... is it doing something wrong with playability? Cause action in d string still feels higher