#1
So I bought myself this baby here



It's pretty cool, still getting used to it, but the string height is bit high for me, it's like 2,5mm on the high E and like 3,5 mm or more on the low F#, on the high E string the saddle can barely go any lower, I was used to my 6 string PRS which is like 1mm on the high Eb and 1,5mm on the low C#, so yeah it's a pretty big difference, I wouldn't mind getting used to it since it'll make my fingers stronger but I have to ask, is action this high normal?

Thanks
#2
If the saddles can't be lowered any further, that's weird. Check your neck relief because if it's a bit too bowed, that can add to the action problem significantly. 
#3
Check the neck relief.

If the neck relief is good, pop the neck off and put a shim in the pocket.
Roses are red
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Quote by Axelfox
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#4
I already checked it, it was good, a bit less than the thick of a credit card between the 8th fret and the 8th string while frets 1 and 24 have a capo on. Maybe it's the nut, it did seem a bit high compared to the one on the PRS, I guess I'll just get used to it for now
#6
Ah.

Make sure the neck relief is about 0.3mm. If it is and you're still not getting the action down to where you like it, send the guitar back to the store you bought it from.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



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#7
Quote by VStratto Music
I already checked it, it was good, a bit less than the thick of a credit card between the 8th fret and the 8th string while frets 1 and 24 have a capo on. Maybe it's the nut, it did seem a bit high compared to the one on the PRS, I guess I'll just get used to it for now


Not how you measure relief. First, stop at the 17th fret or so (not the 24th) -- the truss rod isn't doing anything effective above that. Throw away the credit card (waaaay too thick). You need feeler gauges, and I set mine somewhere between .005 and .010 -- usually .008 or so works for me. If you've got more than that, you have too much.

Have a *good* tech set your guitar up. You should be able to get your action as low as 1/16th" at the 24th fret (not that you're going to want it that low) with no buzzing frets. You can raise it from there if you need to.
#8
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Check the neck relief.

If the neck relief is good, pop the neck off and put a shim in the pocket.


Just...hard to do with neck-throughs.
#9
Quote by dspellman
Just...hard to do with neck-throughs.

Maybe if TS stated what Jackson model it actually was, I would've known it was neck-through and I wouldn't have suggested such a thing.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



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#10
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Maybe if TS stated what Jackson model it actually was, I would've known it was neck-through and I wouldn't have suggested such a thing.


EAAAASY big fella. We were just jobbing you .
#11


Just sayin'
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



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#12
Quote by dspellman
Not how you measure relief. First, stop at the 17th fret or so (not the 24th) -- the truss rod isn't doing anything effective above that. Throw away the credit card (waaaay too thick). You need feeler gauges, and I set mine somewhere between .005 and .010 -- usually .008 or so works for me. If you've got more than that, you have too much.

Have a *good* tech set your guitar up. You should be able to get your action as low as 1/16th" at the 24th fret (not that you're going to want it that low) with no buzzing frets. You can raise it from there if you need to.


Hmm, well I'll try to do it that way, I'll measure the neck bow with a .010 string, because feeler gauges I don't have, but the way I did it before seemed to work fine with my shorter scale singlecut guitars (24,75"-25"), usually I learn how to do it from the manufacturer manual that comes with the guitar or from the official web. There's no "good" techs around here, and the ones that I know are good in other places are waaaay too expensive and I shouldn't spend more money for now.

Well, thanks for the advice

How much does it take for the trussrod adjustment to make a difference on an 8 string?
#13
You really do need feeler gauges if you want to adjust the truss rod accurately. They're available at any hardware store, so you really have no excuse to not buy a set.
Quote by VStratto Music
How much does it take for the trussrod adjustment to make a difference on an 8 string?

It doesn't work like that. Every guitar is a little bit different. You just have to adjust it until you get the neck relief you need.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



Quote by Axelfox
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#14
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
It doesn't work like that. Every guitar is a little bit different. You just have to adjust it until you get the neck relief you need.


Yeah, but this is my first 8 string and I was wondering if there's any considerable difference I should have in mind while making adjustments on the neck and stuff, I really don't want to fuck up because I can't pay a repair or buy another one, it's a bigger instrument, with thicker strings and larger scale, not as different as a bass but still..

So far I've done a 1/4 turn on the trussrod like 20 mins ago and I'm waiting for a bit, the guitar will be comfier than before but yeah I don't think I'll make a big difference like this if the bridge saddles won't allow me, I don't want to return it because there is no better 8 string for the price, so it's time to fuck my hands up one more time!

I'll check a nearby store for feeler gauger tomorrow
#15
If you still cannot get the guitar to play right even if the relief is perfect, then what sense does it make to put up with it if you don't have to. There is every chance that the store will just give you a replacement of the same model and it won't have this problem whatsoever. Guitars of the same model are not built to identical standards, especially not with cheaper guitars like you have. It cannot do any harm to ask the store you bought it from and arrange a deal.

You need to do that sooner rather than later though, before the return policy expires.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



Quote by Axelfox
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#16
T00DEEPBLUE

Its okay nvm, I managed, made the 5 bass strings around 2mm and the 3 treble strings 1,5mm, except for the high e, which I can't get below 1,7mm o so, I'll have to raise the low F# a bit because it makes a shitton of fretbuzz when I play a power chord at fret 12, and its audible through the amp, but only when I play on this last string