#1
Well, yeah, I didn't know my guitar was gonna feel so much tension, but it did. And I'm a new one to the world of these freaking medium calibers, so wouldn't expect any pins popping out here and there. The 6th string is okay, but the 5th already has the problem stated above. I am terrified to tune 4th string even in drop D, 'cause I don't know what it will end up with. Will the strings rip apart and slap me in the face, or will they do it right and let me just play in standart tuning?
Is it even possible to play with such a gauge on such a guitar in such a crappy day? Or should I order the new ones? Please, help me. Spent 6 hours and my head is way too blown off, though I am mere single-minded at this point.
#2
How did you manage to post the same thing eight times?

I use 13-56 in standard tuning, no problem once you get used to it, if the guitar is properly set up. However, the high string tension might cause more structural deterioration in the long term than lighter strings.

If you have pins popping, it means that the strings weren't seated properly, and/or the grooves in the pins or bridge are too small. I encounter this problem regularly, and my fix is to make the grooves in the pins bigger with a dremel. 
#3
dima_mayd In all honesty I'm a bit mystified to what, or rather how much, you think you're going to gain by stringing your inexpensive Yamaha with mediums. Manufacturers select a string gauge as to what they believe will sound good, prevent warranty claims, and preserve the life of the guitar even further into the future.

Setup is the main key, and it would be in your best interest to share the action measurements of your guitar with us, before you do anything rash.

That said, if you're popping pins, are you putting J bends in the string ball ends, along with making sure the balls are under the bridge toward the neck? Also, while it's true that the pin grooves might need to be widened but, they might just have to be aligned correctly as well. (It's an "either, or, and", situation).
Last edited by Captaincranky at Jul 20, 2017,
#5
Quote by dima_mayd
Captaincranky actually, I've found out that my stock strings were 12-53.
Right. Well, in all honesty, there's no surprise there. Those are "acoustic lights", and 80+% of acoustics ship with them. In some sets, the low E-6 is maybe an .054.

Big dreads sometimes come with mediums, but "parlor size" guitars can ship with as light as, "acoustic extra lights, .10 to 047. Everything else pretty much ships with lights. Mediums, (at concert pitch), place about 185 Lbs. of tension on the guitar, lights about 165, ""custom light"(.011 to .052), about 150, and finally extra lights come in at about 135 Lbs.

The trouble I see with mediums, is that players in an effort to ease fretting difficulties, tend to try to get the action as low as possible. This leads to issues with the fret work on less expensive guitars, which quite frankly haven't had the frets leveled by a "master luthier", or treated to a trip to the "pleck machine".

Lights aren't inclined to need quite as low an action, although they can benefit from it. "Custom lights" easier to bend, and most guys, with some practice, can fairly easily bend a full pitch with them"Grassers", bless their red neck hearts and determination, sometimes string with mediums, AND raise the action, so they keep up with those damned banjos and mandolins..

I'd like to see you learn what the string height measurements should be, which would place you well on the way to making informed decisions about string gauge choices. Here's a great setup guide for acoustics: http://thbecker.net/guitar_playing/guitars_and_setup/setup_page_01.html
Well worth checking out.
Last edited by Captaincranky at Jul 21, 2017,
#6
Quote by Tony Done
If you have pins popping, it means that the strings weren't seated properly, and/or the grooves in the pins or bridge are too small. I encounter this problem regularly, and my fix is to make the grooves in the pins bigger with a dremel. 

I would advise you go the other direction and cut grooves into the holes in the bridge.  Think of it this way.  Cutting the grooves in the pins deeper is like a size 12 sucking in their belly to zip up the size 10 jeans.  Cutting slots into the bridge would be the guitar equivalent of a size 12 taking size 10 jeans to a taylor and having them let out so that they actually fit.

Something else the TS should consider is that not all modern guitars can handle medium strings.  Guitarists have been using lighter and lighter string over the last 40 years so luthiers and guitar companies have changed the bracing and top thickness to sound their best with lighter strings.  A lot of modern guitars simply can't handle medium strings because modern guitars aren't designed for it.  If the strings don't fit in the bridge that says the guitar wasn't meant to be used with strings that are that heavy.  This doesn't mean you can't use mediums on a guitar designed for lights but it does mean you will want to keep on eye on your guitar.  Look for neck warping and belly up.  If it shows any signs of either over the 1st few months of using heavier strings then switch back to lighter strings.
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#7
CorduroyEW 

Yeah, I've had this discussion a few times before re slotted bridge vs slotted pins. It is supposed to reduce the risk of bridge plate damage, but I prefer my current system. The pins is just held in string tension, when the tension is off I can pull the pin with my fingers, and the ball doesn't hang up on the bridge plate.