#1
Hi, so ive had to prime and colour my guitar again as i messed up the first time! My question is to anyone that has done this before... do i sand my colour coat, or do i clear coat and then sand? Am so confussed with this step.. i wet sanded my colour coat last time and had to start again as i went through the paint lol but my colour coat has orange peel effect going on now but looks really good! Will a clear coat and wet sand sort that out?

**Edit** I forgot to mention its nitrocellulous spray I am using!
Last edited by heaven086 at Aug 10, 2017,
#2
Ive always sanded each coat to get out the orange peel.  And used a good lacquer from an auto body supply store.  And I hope you are wet sanding with a very fine grit, 1500+ and go slow.
#3
No. Im assuming youre using some kind of laquer.
First: do not sand between coats. If you were using 1970s paint fine but its 2017. Most laquer is made for fast setup and to  take the next coat between 10 minutes and a couple hours. Most of them if you wait longer than a few hours you have to give them a few days to dry then light sand (400 grit.. ish).

Prime and color: Did you go down to bare wood? Then you need to seal it. Timbermate thinned way down works great. If youre painting over old paint youre PROBABLY painting over polyurethane and you need to take a heat gun to it and remove it and start over. Oh.. btw krylon colormaster paint + primer works great.. as do auto spraycans. if you spray the color then let it cure.. make sure you let it sit long enough BEFORE you clearcoat it. This is chemistry. Follow the directions. Try to paint in low humidity average temperature conditions. Cold is VERY VERY Bad as is high humidity.

The orange peal is PROBABLY because you used too much paint. Remember youre doing layers and each layer of lacquer melts into the layer below it. You dont have to have that "perfect glossy sheen".. you need to have paint on it.  Once youre done doing everything THEN break out the high grit sandpaper going up to 2000 grit and even polishing compound (dont overdo it)
#5
Quote by cdreid
light sand (400 grit.. ish).


light sand with 400 grit???  are you trying to sand through the finish???
#6
I'd be hesitant to go lower than 800, and even then I prefer 1000 plus. I have a very light touch when sanding, as I hate having to go back And re-do. 

when doing your colour coat, go for multiple light passes, rather than a few heavy passes - I find the colour goes on better that way. I chose to wet sand lightly with 1200, just to remove any overspray or particles, then hit it with a tack cloth before clearcoat. Yes, the clear should melt in, but the way I see it, any thing under the clear that shouldn't be there will be magnified by the clear. I still do multiple passes with the clear, but I go heavier, aiming for a fairly wet coat - gotta be mindful of runs, but I found that if you go to light with the clear, it just looks like overspray - your experience may vary. 

If if you get a run, let it dry before tackling it - I found sanding down to be more effective than using a blade to scrape it off. 

I give it a decent amount of clear (think it was about 2 cans), then I let it cure for a month - the instructions said no polishing for a month, so that was what I did. When the time came, I started with 1200 and moved up to 2500, wet sanding throughout the grits. I then hit it with G3 polishing compound and walk away for a bit. When I come back, I inspect. If it still looks like it needs more, I do the process again. When satisfied, I finish up with guitar polish. 


Orange peel in the colour wont be sorted by spraying clear - the clear will just seal it in.
#7
kentrock higher is of course better but most people are NOT patient. And if you check around with pro's a lot of them even sand >between coats of laquer< (based on tradition not science etc) with 320.....  yes i realise THAt (bertween coats... sanding at all) is a horrible idea .
#8
cdreid 320 is rediculous, you obviously know a lot more than i do.  what you put into it is what you will get out of it though.