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#121
^ youd have to he tax on it, and shipping would probably be around £30 (a guess) though it could be a lot higher.
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#122
Originally posted by dave_c2k2
Thats rather cheap (this is just a strat body price.) I'm wondering if there are loads of extra fee's. How much would shipping to England cost? I'm tryign to find out now but is there anything else to pay?


aparently the import tax is absolutly murderous
#123
Cheers CB. I'll definately look into this.

Random question time. Any idea where i can get info on Morello's Strat? Like is the binding real binding or imitation and what pickups etc he uses?

Wish i was American sometime's just because it seem's like the whole customizing scene is more equipped!

But i love good ol Hull in the UK

EDIT: ^ Shet, murdurous sound's...harsh as a badger's arse
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Last edited by dave_c2k2 at May 8, 2005,
#124
Alright last time i will spam this up but this could be useful for anyone planning on using Warmoth who come's form anywhere in the world.

I'm thinking i've worked this out wrong but the body and neck i would want would come to around 570 USD. That includes shipping.

Is this really only £301.33

Surely that is wrong as it is so cheap? The extra charges i would have to pay (Import shite) would be around £130)

So i would have everything i wanted for 450 quid? I would say that is reasonable enough? Wouldn't you? Unless i've worked something out wrong.
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#125
^When you add up the price of the body and neck, everything does indeed seem very reasonable. It starts to get expensive when you factor in pickups, top-quality hardware, and start getting into more expensive wood and body shapes like I did. All in all, the quality is more than worth the price. It's absolutely incredible - basically the same wood you'd get on a $3000+ Gibson or PRS.

I just finished buffing and it's fantastic. It was a little cloudy looking even after the 2000 grit sandpaper, but the swirl remover and a generous amount of Gibson pump polish got rid of that problem nicely.
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#126
Well the one i added up was only a strat so when it come's to other's the price is considerably higher.

I'm not decided yet though.

How is the project coming along then anyway? I'm interested in this cloudyness problem. Is it completely gone and is the finish as smooth as possible and shiny?
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#127
^the finish is great - all the clouding is gone. It's shiny enough that it's reflective in good light. I'm happy! This afternoon I'll do the wiring. Assuming that works, it should be playable tonight.
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#128
You don't fuck about do you mate? Straight down to business.
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#129
You know it!
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#130
HELP!!!

I'm about to start wiring, and I'm very confused. The schematic I'm using - http://www.seymourduncan.com/website/support/schematics/hum_sing_hum_vol_tone_spl.html - shows two wires coming from the single coil. The Lace Sensor has three - white, red, and green. What do I do? Also, is there a correct way to attach the pots? I just put one nut on the inside and one on the outside and tightened them both. Is that right?
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#131
^ i think the white and green go to the ground, and the red is the hot.

and you can just put a nut on the top of the guitar with a washer; you dont need any underneath.
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#132
Hmmm. So I solder both green and white to ground? I'll give it a try! Thanks.
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#133
^ yup im sure. ill check on the Lace website though.

EDIT: yup, im right.
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#134
omg. that is soo amazing! holy crap man.you should be pro.
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#135
. . .pro? He's purchasing from a pre-built site, so that's not exactly 'pro status'. . .

Pictures!I'm really interested in the pup combination. It seems really versatile. You doing coil taps and in/out phases? And what about those LED's?
#136
Once you see my crappy solder joints and all the scratches I've put in the finish trying to attach stuff, you'll realize why I'm not a pro!

I've given up on the LEDs, and I'm doing whatever type of coil splits that schematic is giving me. I really have no clue when it comes to wiring. I deffinatly did chose the pickups with versatility in mind. If I ever get another guitar, I may switch the super distortion out with a Duncan Custom Custom and put the SD in my Schecter.

I deffinatly underestimated how hard the wiring would be, but I should be done in another couple hours.
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#137
Wiring's done. I tested it by plugging in and tapping the pickups with a screwdriver. The neck and middle pickups work, the bridge doesn't. I can't figure out what I did wrong. Judging by the fact that the other two work, anyone have any ideas?

If anyone could tell me how this damn Gotoh 510 bridge works, that'd be great. It seems as though the only way to adjust the height is by taking the bridge off the studs.

I can't get the neck screws all the way in. I've got soap on them and everything, but the neck wood is just too hard. I'll try drilling the holes a little deaper I guess. With my luck, I'll probably drill through the fretboard.

I've managed to put some fairly significant scratches in the finish through all of this. Is there an easy way to get rid of them, or should I just spray a coat or two of laquer over the spots I messed up, then buff them next week?

Grrr! I'm frustrated!
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#138
^I can't give you advice on the electronics, but I might be able to help with the scratches.

Get some lacquer thinner and paint it over the scratch with a small paint brush (like one used with watercolors). let it soften the lacquer on and around the scratch. Then use the paint brush to fill the scratch with lacquer. Let it hardened a little, but not get completely hard. Then get a razor blade and cut it even with the rest of the finish. then you only have to sand and buff the area that was scratched, not the whole guitar.
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#139
For the wiring, I don't know what you might've done wrong. Just check your connections again, or post an up-close picture for us.

Use a power drill. I was helping my friend with teh bolt-on neck, and I could not screw it at the very end - my power drill did it nicely for me, but make sure you use only what's needed, or else you'll bust up the wood.

For the Gotoh 510, you should be able to screw the pegs in to adjust action, I think.
#140
Thanks for the help with the scratches, Corduroy. That was just the kind of thing I was looking for.

As far as the wiring, I wasn't exactly right about the bridge pickup not working. It turns out I somehow managed to do all the connections backwards - having the switch all the way towards the neck gives me the bridge pickup, and so on. Similarly, I seem to have to turn the knobs the wrong direction to make stuff happen. I'd rather not have to rewire the entire thing, so I'm going to try to just flip the switch around without pulling any of the wires off.

The switch position that should give me neck/middle is dead. Based on the schematic I used, anyone know what I did wrong?

I don't see anything adjustable on the bridge except for the saddles. There are two small screws, one by each of the pegs, that look like they should be what I want. Turning them does absolutely nothing though. The problem with screwing the pegs themselves is that I have to take the bridge off to get at them.

Oh yeah, neck went on fine - just had to make the holes a little bigger.

And the damn backwards schematic I used: http://www.seymourduncan.com/website/support/schematics/hum_sing_hum_vol_tone_spl.html
based on that, can anyone tell me why the neck/middle position is dead?
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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Last edited by mnbaseball91 at May 8, 2005,
#141
That happened to me when I was following the Seymour Duncan schematics to re-wire my Stratocaster switch. I somehow wired it backwards even though I followed the diagram exactly. What I did was I just detatched the switch and re-wired it properly. About your neck/middle position, it could be that the switch is faulty. Either that, or it's a problem with the pickup wiring.
#142
I imagine that one of my connections is just plain bad. What I don't get it how it's possible for the neck/mid position to be dead when the neck and middle pickups work perfectly by themselves! I'm going to rewire the switch completely since turning it around seems impossible. Hopefully, that will solve the problem.

If anybody has any ideas for soving any of my problems, they would be greatly appreciated.
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#143
This might be way off base, but if the neck pickup was wired out of phase, then could that make it so that the middle pickup and the neck pickup cancel each other out??
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#144
heh...you're asking me?

Hopefully Colum will be back tomorrow to help out. The bridge thing is really pissing me off because it's the only thing that I have no clue what to do about it other than just guessing and checking. It wouldn't be so bad, but I have to pound it with something heavy to get it on and off and I keep killing my fingers!

As a side note, the first time I put the strap on this thing and went to put it over my head, I didn't count on how light it would be. I ended up wacking myself in the forehead with it really hard! You might say it hasn't been a good day for this wannabe luthier.
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#145
You hit yourself in the head??

As much as i hate you for it (56k at the moment) i really would love to see more pics etc seem as you say you have done with the bodywork.
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#146
No pictures till it's playable. I've gotta get my priorities in line (which makes you wonder why I'm sitting in front of my computer right now).

PS. What can I use to adjust the truss rod?
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#148
Most people have a full set of allen key's lying around and that should be what you need. If you don't have any i almost guarantee a neighbour or someone will.
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#149
it can be quite difficult to get one that fits perfectly htough i tried and it was inbetween 2 sizes which was a pain in the ass to be sure!
#150
I had a cheap regular set and one of them fit perfect. They are probably a few mm different sometimes i suppose but yeah you can pick up a set quite cheap, they always come in useful for bikes, guitars etc.
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#151
yes im here now mn

that problem could really have been avoided by using a diagram off www.guitarelectronics.com i think theirs are better than the SD ones. about your pickups not working, Corduroy is right i think; its the pickups cancelling eachother out. you can have out of phase sounds, but they can cancel eachother out too. on the middle Lace Sensor, switch round the white and red wires and try again. if it doesnt work this time, post some pics and or diagrams of what youve got so far, and ill draw you up a new one.
the pots will probably work the wrong way around because youll have read the diagram with the pots the other way around. they usually are viewed from underneath or the side (which you can easily spot).
Double Neck Project - Winner of 2006 GB&C "Best guitar build from scratch", "(Best) Most expensive build" and "Best Idea" awards - FINISHED!

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#152
about scratches and stuff, did you just use sandpaper for the finish, or did you 'buff' it. you can buy a buffing compound and rub it on with a soft cloth (use a mask, it is toxic). i used some on my car paint. 3m makes a buffing compound, makes a mirror finish. i'll take a look at your schematics in a while too.
what
#153
on the top right of the 5 way switch, there is a connection that has nothing on it. ground that like you did the other.

i hope you can view the pic, if not, im sure it is self explanatory.
Attachments:
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what
Last edited by IamJonsCranium at May 9, 2005,
#155
^X2 why ground that? thats a tag for a tone pot. well it should be. i really dont understand the layout of that switch, its just completey different to what they usually are.

EDIT: SB, thats from the SD website.
Double Neck Project - Winner of 2006 GB&C "Best guitar build from scratch", "(Best) Most expensive build" and "Best Idea" awards - FINISHED!

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Last edited by Calum_Barrow at May 9, 2005,
#156
http://www.seymourduncan.com/website/support/schematics/hum_sing_hum_vol_tone_spl.html

if the other is grounded, why not ground this? it is worth a try. having an open connection doesnt seem like a good idea to me.
i would try this first. all you have to do is tape a wire to it so you might as well give it a try real quick. if not, do collums thing.

for allan keys, they make metric and english. my schecter uses english. if you are in between 2 sizes, you need to try the other. i beleive metric are black and english are silver.
what
Last edited by IamJonsCranium at May 9, 2005,
#157
^ that one thats grounded isnt usually grounded at all.

i would use a Fender diagram for the switches and then wire the pickups like i told you to. then wire the tone and volume like shown there. if im not mistaken, that diagram gives a split in one or more positions.

EDIT: and quit multiple posting, or ill report you. its not allowed.
Double Neck Project - Winner of 2006 GB&C "Best guitar build from scratch", "(Best) Most expensive build" and "Best Idea" awards - FINISHED!

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#158
Thanks for all the help guys.

1) I emailed the guys at warmoth and they explained how to adjust he Gotoh. There were two allen holes staring me in the face that I didn't see.

2) The reason I asked about the truss rod is because it doesn't look like an allen wrench will fit in it. It looks like the opposite of what I'd expect it to look like. I should be able to grab it with some plyers though.

3) I talked to some people today, and they agreed that it was the out of phase thing. I'll work on flipping everything around when I get a chance. At least I know what I have to do now.

Again, thanks for the help!
"The most important thing is to learn how to play the guitar before you get 50,000 dollars worth of complicated gear" -Slash

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#159
dont use pliers! the last thing you want to do is strip it. get one of those things that looks like a screwdriver, but has a wrentch tip (ask warmoth what to use)
what
#160
Yeah, definately avoid using pliers on your truss rod if possible. It'd be much better to spend a few bucks for the corerct allen wrench.