#1
Are the strings supposed to be closer to the frets near the top of the guitar than they are towards the bottom? Because thats how my strings are.

Also I was told that since I have small hands that lowering the action would make it easier for me to play. I looked up on the internet quick on how to do it and I think it said that I'm supposed to turn the screws on the bridge. Is this right? I really don't want to mess up my my guitar by screwing around with this.
#2
What kind of guitar do you have? And yes, it's natural for the strings to be closer to the frets near the top.
Hi, I'm Peter
#3
If you mean the top as in past the 12th fret, then yes, but I don't think by much. Also, what kind of bridge do you have?
Oh crap!
#5
Strat style bridge - each saddle (the thing the string rests on when it comes up through the bridge) has 2 allen screws. Tighten them clockwise to raise the saddle (hence the string) or loosen them counterclockwise to lower the saddle.
Hi, I'm Peter
#7
Quote by GUNZI
if you want it done properly take it to a shop and get it done

Nonsense. If you're new at it, it'll just take patience, but there's no reason at all for you not to do it yourself. Just making bridge height adjustments will screw nothing up. Also, before you make any action adjustments, you should make sure your neck has has the proper amount of relief (bend). Do you know how to check that?
Hi, I'm Peter
#9
Ok...do you have a capo? Anyway...capo or press down the first fret on the low E string. Then press the low E string down on the fret where the neck meets the body, around the 17th-18th. Look at the gap between the top of the 8th fret and the bottom of the low E string. There should be a gap about the thickness of a credit card or a few sheets of paper. If it's wider, then you need less bow. If there's no gap, then you need to put some bow in the neck. Do that measurement first and get back to us
Hi, I'm Peter
#10
The relief seemed pretty good.

So to change the action to I have to turn both screws the same amount? Or what. Step by step would help because I don't want to scew anything up
#11
u want each saddle to be level.
and u cant screw it up.


these are the screws dirk was talking about. (he loves these pics)
a small allen screw.

(phil's pic.)
Jenneh

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Last edited by jj1565 at May 15, 2006,
#12
Ok, So i turn both of the screws the same number of turns...correct?

And how far down do I go...until it buzzes or what?
#13
yeah, u eye ball it. so it looks level. u lower the screws to raise the action.
opposite to lower the action.

usually a player wants the strings kind of low. but if u get some fret buzz then raise it back up a bit and it will stop.

best part about a strat is that, a problem string can be kept a little higher if needed.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

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#14
What happens if on one saddle the screws are at slightly different heights? Does that matter or is it no big deal.

Sorry if I'm asking dumb questions.
#15
sometimes they are a tiny bit off, or one screw is a bit taller than the other.
sometimes it comes from the factory like that.
not a big deal, but try to keep them level. then wont shift as much, and ur intonation will stay tuned longer.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011
#16
Well, I'm going to add a bit of a caveat:

The individual saddles should be level. However, collectively the saddles should NOT be level. The saddles in the middle should be a bit higher than the ones on the ends. This is to compensate for the neck radius; that is, the rounded shape of the fretboard. This is also the reason that the screws on some will be longer than others.
Hi, I'm Peter