#1
hello im looking for advice and information about repairing or replacing a classical machine head tuner.

i have a manuel sangura and its had a bit of bashing over the years (before i came to own it btw) and i wanted to try and restore it so i could actualy play all the strings.

currently it has a few dents and a nasty scratch and the coating is wearing off in places.
one of the plastic key bits has fallen off and lost(will try to replace it), one is loose but still attached. im not worried about the athetics of it i just want to repair the machine haed

id like to know how i would attach the little plastic bits to the little metal bits
(escuse me for the lack of technical terms)
i would also be greatfull if someone told if machine heads, the 3x2 strips looking ones had er.... a standerd spacing between the peg holes and screw holes.
oh yeah one more thing how would i file the frets edges withou dameging the wood.

cheers in advance

heres a pic
#3
It seems you could just slide the knob on, if it moves around glue with some supe glue.

Machine heads like that can have different spacing so measure them before you buy.
#4
i did try gluing the loose ones but it diddint really work.
could you suggest a type of glue to use?
ty
#6
Titebond is not the sort of glue you want. A epoxy or super glue would be better suited.
#7
dude honestly no.......just NO!

I wouldnt risk using epoxy on that old of a tuning machine.....jesus....

super glue will not hold well enough....not plastic to metal...and another thing model glue will not help either thats meant for plastic to plastic contact, titebond will hold if your not a dumbass and use it rite, if that doesnt work, then gorilla glue will....
#10
Quote by Schecter-06
dude honestly no.......just NO!

I wouldnt risk using epoxy on that old of a tuning machine.....jesus....

super glue will not hold well enough....not plastic to metal...and another thing model glue will not help either thats meant for plastic to plastic contact, titebond will hold if your not a dumbass and use it rite, if that doesnt work, then gorilla glue will....


Seriously titebond is not the glue he wants titebond is a wood glue, you can't get a solid join with for metal to plastic. A superglue or 5 minute hobby expoy will do a much better job.
#12
^ wtf

The reason titebond won't work for a joint like that is.. With a glue like titebond the strength in the joint is in the amount that seeps into the wood and bonds (i dunno if you get what i'm trying to explain i can't find the right words ) The larger the seam of glue is the weaker the joint is. The glue needs to able to seep into the to work. This is not possible on metal. A Ca glue or hobby epoxy is far better suited to this application.

The plastic knob may not even need glueing on.
#15
Quote by Schecter-06
use epoxy


Tbh it probably be easier to try a super glue. But threadstarter i'd see if you could get it to fit without the use of glue.
And when you said filing the fret edges do you mean the bevel on the end of the fret, or filing them flush with the side of the fretboard.
#16
the frets arnt that big a deal for me, but i did want to make them flush with the edge of the fret board if i thought i could do it without ruinning it.

edit

beavel as in sharp bits from someone useing a rough file? then just the beavel
Last edited by randomsam1988 at May 29, 2006,
#17
now that i think about it i think the metal rod was heated and the plastic was shoved on melting and setting. maby with a small hole drilled to pilot it