#1
Okay so I started on my rebuild. I took the advice from fellow UGers to mod my existing strat. I have been sanding it down today so I havent gotten anynew pics then these yet, but more will come tomorrow. This is what it looked like. I have some special ideas for the paint so I'll keep yall in suspense until the end as to how it will look. But I have decided to go with a H/S/H configuration, what pickups do yall think I should use.




Last edited by ClaptonRules at Jun 14, 2006,
#2
dimarzio x2n in the bridge
dimarzio tone zone in the neck and
dimarzio yjm in the middle
#3
A Duncan SH4 JB in the Bridge, a Fender Cobalt Noiseless in the Middle, and either a Duncan SH4 Jazz in the Neck or maybe a P-94
Yeah Dimebag is not the "Greatest Guitarist" of all time... Hendrix maybe... I must go get food to eat with my mouth

$250 for an amp? wow. is it worth it to invest that much in the amp?

#4
I am looking for some pickups with good distortion for rock and metal, but that also clean up good. I am using a SD Hot Rails in the middle position.

But I will also get the sanded and blocked pictures up tomorrow.
#5
Okay guys, I got it sanded almost all the way back down to bare wood. I have got the pieces to make it a solid body glued in, and now I am letting it cure. Tomorrow I will be sanding down the excess off, routing the pickup hole and electronics cavity. I am also going to be using an epoxy of some sort to fill in any gaps that are left. I'll post those pics tomorrow.

By the way sorry about the bras in the shot, my wifes messy.lol



#6
Ok, I went out and bought some paint today. I was just wondering what you guys thought of a paint scheme to paint my guitar competition orange with a rebel flag kind of like the General Lee from the tv show Dukes Of Hazard. And I got a humbucker from my guitar electronics guy as well. I am going to go with the 2 humbuckers being coil split for more sound options. How do yall feel about coil splitting? I think the options I am gonna have are gonna be:

1 - Bridge humbucker w/ a coil split
2 - Middle Single coil
3 - Neck Humbucker w/ a coil split
4 - Both humbuckers
5 - All three pickups

Would that be a decent setup or should I put more options?
#7
You desecrated the American Flag!!!!!111one. I'm just kidding.

I like the general Lee idea. I suggest for a pickup config. that you have a nice clean (but warm) humbucker in the bridge, a clean bright pup in the middle position, and a nice distorted pickup in the neck. I can't give any specific brand/model, but that should cover a tooon of genres, and give you a nice choice of tone.
'01 Sunburst Strat>1953 Valco Supro

'06 Jazz bass>'78 Bassman 10

Simple rig fan.
#8
oh god.. you're filling the cavities with PINE!?

and for options, i'd have a setup like this:

1bridge HB
2bridge tapped+ middle
3 middle
4neck tapped + middle
5neck

**separate switch for coil-tapping the buckers

it would give you many more options.

EDIT: let me re-phrase that.... please tell me you're NOT filling those cavities with PINE of all things.
Last edited by twelvestringtex at Jun 15, 2006,
#9
Quote by twelvestringtex
oh god.. you're filling the cavities with PINE!?


I missed that. Jesus. Well, it shouldn't be terribly bad. Yeah, it won't be that bad.
'01 Sunburst Strat>1953 Valco Supro

'06 Jazz bass>'78 Bassman 10

Simple rig fan.
#10
Actually its not pine. I was worried about that when I bought the wood but the guy at the lumber yard swore it wasnt pine. Its not a great tone wood. But all the times I cut on it and sanded it, it never smelled like pine. So, Im guessing its not, but then again Im not wood expert.

But heres the latest pics of my progress. I know its kind of slow, but watching my son all day and college makes it a little difficult. LOL. In these I got the big "chunks" sanded off, all the cracks filled and sanded smooth. Tomorrow I will be routing out the pickup and electronics cavities.




#11
no, its just weaker, more succeptible to moisture, takes finishes differently, and sands quicker than the rest of the wood.

add to that the fact that he's using 2x4 lumber from somewhere like home depot... well, its not dried like hardwoods would be, (i've picked up 4x4s that oozed water when i cut them) it could be a serious issue.

not to mention the fact that it has at least one knot which will likely crack in half later on.

also, since pine is weaker, if you mount hardware, it will compress the wood, and the screw-holes will be far more likely to strip out and become useless.

also, how do you plan on making those blocks flush with your body?

EDIT: you've done that already.

well, the point is its not very good wood, its right down there with plywood. and it looks like your typical 2x4 from home depot, and wether its pine or not, it will still have all the same problems.
#12
Actually the wood came from a lumber yard. Its NOT pine. I got the blocks sanded bown with some sand paper and a DA sander. And the wood was somewhat dried at a kiln at the college I go too. I didnt leave it in there too long cause I didnt know if it would catch fire, which wood suck. and besides pine costs only a couple of bucks from the local lumber yards, and yeah it was a 2X4, but it cost like 12 bucks for an 10 foot section. And as for pine being too soft to hold screws and sh*t, what do you think your house is made out of???

But ive done wood working since I was like 7. Never all that good at it, but I know some about wood. I've never had a problem with anykind of wood holding anything like screws and stripping. ONly breaking under lots of pressure. So, if you dont like the build you dont have to watch it. I've already talked the whole thing over with my guitar tech and hes looking forward to me it getting done. So I dont know.
Last edited by ClaptonRules at Jun 15, 2006,
#13
never said i didn't like the build, i was just genuinely worried for it! i wouldn't have voiced concern unless i liked it

and houses aren't taken apart and re-assembled, when you have to check electronics or replace parts of a guitar, something is always un-screwed and replaced in the process. houses are usually nailed not screwed, and are over-built for extra strength and to even the load plus pine becomes compressed around the fastners leaving dents where anything is attached for a length of time. my dad has built them for 30 years.

the wood just looked strange to me, i've bought maple in 2x4 sections and it always came with squared edges instead of the rounded ones, and the squared is what i've come to expect of hardwoods. any idea what it is?

i'm still slightly concerned about the knots, but if they survived even a bit of the kiln you should be fine, and hey, you've been doing this for 7 years.
#14
Actually Ive been at wood work for 13 years. Im 20.lol And Im glad your interested in the build. I didnt know how many people would be. As for the wood type. I really dont know. I paid quit a bit for it for a 10 foot section. Way more then Im used to paying. I know they had some with squared edges, but they werent big enough for this project. But sorry for snapping at you, Im trying to quit dipping and it aint working. But again thanks for watching my build. I hope you like how it turns out.
#15
cool, i've been in the woodworking environment all my life, didn't get too heavy into it myself until two years ago, when i started building my twelvestring, but i've been taught things from house construction for quite some time. i'm only 18 myself now. lol. its been interesting trying to turn house construction into guitar construction, and there's plenty of room to just wing it.

meh, i'm sorry for coming off so abrasive, i usually don't, and i had bad timing on my post, i think we were writing them up at the same time and i happened to hit submit shortly after you did, so i hit several things you had already covered, which just seemed assinine i'm sure.

wood is expensive, thats one thing i had to learn quick, i'm afraid. i think a 4 ft section of maple 2x4 was, about $20. easily. total cost for my neck was $35 (which really isn't bad when you look at it that way).
#16
Glad that little tiff was resolved! I'm so looking forward to this build, too. I never considered filling in the cavities of a Strat to make it pickguard-less and just plain wood goodness.

BTW, I learned from those exchanges about wood, drying, knots, compression, etc. so it's all good, from a spectator's perspective.

ClaptonRules, you might want to add the URL of this build to your sig.
#17
Just a tip, you may want to do what they do in this tutorial so the lines around the edges of the cavities don't show through the finish.
http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht2.htm

The wood in the cavities do look alittle suspect, it should be fine though. I would have used the same sort of wood as the body for filling so they expand/contract similar.
#18
yeah, all that compression stuff i actually learned off of here

really interesting stuff. read it and make your own opinon if you'd like, besides, boats are just plain interesting anyway!

i have special personal interest with this build, because i've always wanted a rear-routed strat. its actually one of the requirements of my "ultimate guitar"
#19
OKay its raining at my house, so trying to get it finished routing today and start painting is out of the question. Its supposed to rain today and tomorrow so I am gonna try and stretch the routing into two days.

Also I just had a wierd idea. Should I set the neck in it this time or leave it as a bolt on? I mean if I set the neck I will still run the screws back through the holes for the added strength. But I will glue it in, and the fill and contour the neck to the body. So, should I do it?
#20
Ok sorry mods for the double post. But heres the pic of what little routing I got done yesterday. I have only gotten the bridge and mid pup cavities routed and the holes for the sting-thru routed and drilled.


By the way for whoever suggested me putting the URL up for this build, Im not real sure if you mean put it in my sig. Or if you mean put my build on a web page and then link it in my sig. So if you could clarify on exactly what you meant, I will try and get that up for you guys.
#21
Errr, I hate to point this out, but considering the original route for the pickups was just a large square slot, and your new routes are within the new block of filler wood, was there a point in even putting the new wood in? Couldn't you just have gotten a new pick guard since the pickups would fit into this slot in the first place?

Both assuming and hoping that you're putting a pickguard on that.
#23
No the hole reason for this build is to do away with the hideous ass pickguard. I could have put everything in one and screwed it back down, but that would look ugly, IMO. Plus I was making it a hardtail in the first place to add to the sustain, so it was just ass easy to block the whole thing and make something completely original. And thanks Merc for clearing up how to do that. Im still sort of a nooby, and am not real sure how they did that. But I will put it on my sig. So thanks.
#24
Ah fair enough. You never really mentioned on the first page what you were doing the filler for.

My mistake.
#25
Okay heres the latest pics. Like I said earlier Im trying to stretch the routing into 2 days since it has been raining tody. So all I have so far today is the neck hum route finished, and part of the rear cavity routed. I still need to decide if I should set the neck or not. Cause I figure I will probably be done with the body work tomorrow. Then I have to make the pup rings so those wont be done until Tuesday or so. But if I am going to set the neck I need to decide in the next day or two. Any input would be great yall.



#26
Are you going hardtail, by chance?
'01 Sunburst Strat>1953 Valco Supro

'06 Jazz bass>'78 Bassman 10

Simple rig fan.
#30
looks cool, i dont like the look of the pickgaurd either
Member of the Metal Militia. PM Gibson_10 or AngelOfSorrow to join
#31
Sweet guitar, man! If it's not too much trouble, could you really explain some of the things you're doing so that some of the noobs (like me) can understand? You've given me great advice already, and I would appreciate it if I could glean a little more offa ya!
#33
Alright, beginner question here. You said you were filling the routes so you could remove the pick guard, so why did you fill the plug route?
#34
My guess would be to move the input jack. I know thats what I would do because I think strats look so cluttered up on the front.
#35
That makes sense. Is the volume knob gonna move, too? Too me, that's the worst feature on strats. I'm constantly turning mine down without meaning too.
#37
This thread could probably be deleted as ClaptonRules has been banned- Or he could just sign up as a different user and continue it i guess.
#38
anyone know why he got banned?

i was quite looking forward to seeing how this would go.
Quote by TehJermie
you can get that toneblaster stack at the cost of your dignity.

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fine, screw the cheese sandwich if you must...


#39
Quote by hairball
anyone know why he got banned?

Discussing banned users is frowned upon.....


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