Don't jump down my throat about this because it has always worked fine for me but when I do a respray I sand it down to the wood or the primer or whatever, move up to medium sandpaper then fine. When it's been done all over with fine I just spray my primer and I never ever sand between coats.

Purely out of interest, are you meant to sand between each coat. Because surely it just leaves each mirror surface more scratched. Also what is the absolute like full best way, something to do with white spirit and wet sanding. Would someone please explain the best way to prep and work between coats when spraying with a can, without referring me to ReRanch?

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some one should sticky this. I reply to these at least once a week. But whatever.

First....... if it already has a nice finish sand it with some 600 grit wet or dry doesnt matter, i prefer dry. But if you are trying to remove knicks and scratches sand it with like 400 or 320 or 220 dry, whatever u have it all works.....

Second... If u sanded it with the coarser stuff u will need to spray a primer surfacer on it. That is basically just like a sprayable bondo....except no where near that thick. Spray 3 coats on it, or more if u had to sand it down to the wood. If u had just sanded it with the 600 grit or finer, then u can just clean it and spray the base/clear, or whatever u are spraying.

Third....Once u have applied multiple coats of the surfacer stuff, let dry probably like 12 hours or so. (the longer the better though) Then you can sand that surface with the finer grits...I use 400 grit, but then i apply a sealer on top of it also. If you dont want a sealer then i think 600 grit will be fine. Ohyeah do it by hand and go in straight lines. I think when u sand the surfacer u will probably like to use water, just regular water in a squirt botttle, this way you will wash away all the dirt and hopefully wont leave any unwanted scratches...

Any more questions PM me i am glad to help
Slowhand 03/23/07
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Well, I usually sand lightly before the first and second coats. I realize this is kind of vague, so I'll try to explain best I can.

Say I'm applying the color coats. I spray the first coat, then sand (600 grit). I spray the second coat, then sand (800 grit). I then spray the third coat, then sand using the finest grit sandpaper you have (1000-2000 grit is recommended.)
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Last edited by Mui at Jul 23, 2006,
do the regular pre spray sanding with medium (400 grit), make sure everything is clean. spray primer. sand with about 600-800 grit, clean, spray paint, sand again with the 800,clean, spray, sand with 800, clean, spray two coats, spray 5-20 coats of clear for a glossy finish and if you go for about 20 coats of clear, you will come off with extreme gloss and MEGA scratch protection. when i do it, i use flat paint for the color, and gloss clear for the overcoat. if somebody wants a metallic finish, then i mix my own clear with metalflake in it, but that's for another day.
u dont need to sand in btwn coats, unless u get dirt or runs and stuff. if u are using a metallic color and u sand in btwn coats u will "burn" the tops of the flakes are pearls off, but that wont be that noticably on a guitar. i did a sled hood that way once, it was a mistake turned into a great job. the guy wanted to keep the mx-z colors but he didnt want them the same as they were before. i sprayed black, then taped up lines and airbrushed some stuff yellow. but when i pulled the tape off from the lines and stuff, it left huge marks. so i let dry , sanded it with an oscar the next day and it looked like a camo type thing black and yellow....was really cool, then i threw in the tribal flames, and cleared the **** outta it. it was cool.
Slowhand 03/23/07
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Okay em... What's all this stuff about white spirit and stuff? Wiping the wood down. And also, this grain filler, I looked everywhere for in the UK and the best I found was PolyFiller which hardened in the holes like bloody stone and couldn't really be sanded down. A spray on thing sounds better than a razor appliable one. You know where I can get one in the UK?
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White spirit & mineral spirits are the same thing. They're just used to clean surfaces, but you can use naptha and it will accomplish the same thing.

The reason people use white spirits/mineral spirits/naptha during sanding is because they evaporate quicker than water, so you run less of a risk of lifting the lacquer or swelling the wood around screw holes. It's really unnecessary if you spray the way I do.


If you're spraying lacquers, sanding between each coat really doesnt matter. Most refinishes i'll do consist of sanding the body's clear caot with 220, spray about 6 coats of clear sealer sanding with 400 grit between each coat. That's usually enough to fill in the sanding marks (you can easily use 400 grit to prep the clear, but I like to take the majority of it off for tone). Then you can just continue on. Remember, lacquers 'blend' in with each coat that's sprayed on, it's not like poly where it requires a a physical bond (i.e. sanding) or missing that 'window' to spray more coats.

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