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#1
Hi all , Im a 50 year old, old fart, with NO woodworking experience. Been watching some of the 'build' threds (particularly the 1 by Cord) WOW. I have been totally inspired. I have actually started with some Oregon Myrtel (as I.D.ed by Cord) I wouldnt have a clue what timber it is. Ill post the pics of my progress. Up till now it has taken me just over 2 weeks 2 work out how 2 use a hand plane (well so it works) , pick my section of timber. strip it & plane the edge & glue it. THis is where im up 2

me

my wood stack

the chosen piece 4 the deck

glued up after cutting & planeing
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 7, 2006,
#2
Haha it took me a little time to figure out what was going on in the first pic... I thought you were showing us the pole on the outside of your house that you were gonna make a guitar out of :P
#4
Teleprompters sorry re qual of pics (trying 2 get as many on a page with the dumb size limits. I havent any ideas on anything , shape , size specs, hardware, neck is a toss up b tween the oregon I have & some teak off of an old wardrobe.(im a poor pensioner so this will b an extreme budget build any idaes on ANYTHING would b greatly appriciated. Only 1 thing the hardware is gonna b all black Matt i think
Richard

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#5
BTW Teleprompter y'r build is great i luv the way the headstock came!! This build is also 1 that inspired me I linked 2 it from Cords Archtop build page. After reading these pages especially Cords , even though i havent a clue what im doing i just couldnt sit & not do something toward starting. I figure i'll pick up what skills i need along the way ( OR DIE TRYING) so we'll c how i go fingers X
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#7
I agree with Teleprompters. You are a brave man ... however, with Cord's guidance/tips/tricks, etc. I suspect you'll do fine.

I won't dream of even attempting to build a solidbody, from scratch, like Teleprompters, Callum, mutated, Algee, 12string, and other from scratch studs until I take some formal shop class. Good Luck!

#8
Here is the shape i thought fitted the timber, comments?

I got started on the shaping with a circular saw pritty rough but i'll have another go 2morrow. Sorry bout the pic qual but its night & the best i could do.

I didnt realise how out of shape i am, i can hardly move my shoulders arms & back, oh well excrement happens ( i was going 2 say **** happens but they play blanketty blanks with ya cus words) Hey r'nt we all adult enough 2 admit that reguardless of age swearing is something we ALL do & something we ALL hear again reguardless of age. So WTF!! im tired & CWWANKKY (as my daughter used 2 say) B4 she grew up & is older than most of the people on UG. Sorry bout the rant.

here is sort of what im after

this is the basic shape
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 7, 2006,
#9
Gee guys whats the worst can happen. I totally stuff up & have a beautiful piece of junk that will look the goods mounted on my wall & reserve the bragging rights forever with any grandkids that may come along. Lol
Richard

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#10
Is it just me or the photos but does that body look a little too long?
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#11
looks alright. for an old fart. nah jokes, but that looks like a nice bit of wood. good luck.
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#12
yeah it is long i sort of like the shape of a woman if u could sort of overlay your favorite woman over the shape (well 4 me anyway) it fits Ho Ho
Richard

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#13
Good luck man. Seems you've got the right idea already considering you have "no woodworking experience"
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#14
from the back view of a woman that is .Sorry
i figure the tail piece 2 b her 'G' string
Richard

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#15
The really sad part is that iwas thinking of naming her after my mum ( who passed) although the fact i want 2 build some sexual theme into my perception of a g-tar has nothing 2 do with my mum. Im not like that at all

Wow on re- reading this it even creeped me out!! The guitar has a name now it is Kaylene my wife's name 4 reasons that b cum apparent in d following posts , so by all maens read on.
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 8, 2006,
#16
Just so we can get a better idea of what you are doing, and to be sure you are getting the right things planed out

How wide is the upper bout?

How wide is the lower bout?

How wide is the waist?

How long is the guitar?

What scale length?

F holes or some other type of hole?

What bracing patter will you be using (X bracing or parallel)

Will the top be out of Myrtle too or just the back?

How deep will the body be?

How thick are the top and back plates that you are starting with before you start carving into the?
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#17
Hi Cord thanks 4 having a look, I will measure up everything just as soon as i understand clearly what im being asked as i am a noob without doubt. 1 r the 'bout' u refering 2 the wide parts of the (say soundhole end) for want of a better term? & the wide patr at the top end? & is the scale length the same as what is normally refered 2 as scale length?
The top is 42mm thick b 4 gouging.
Richard

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#18
Eek, Archtop for your first build! Best of luck, can't wait to see how it turns out.
#19
Is it actually an archtop, or is it a carved top like on a Les Paul? Cause you seem to have started with an electric body blank.
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#20
Calum_Barrow I suppose it will b carved top more than arch top(Artcore ish but not the shape), Im ignorant as far as anything r.e. guitars go (I can play 1, but again only been playin 4 less than a year), Im after something that pleases me (2 look at) Im really not that put out if it doesnt sound PERFECT.(As worst case i can always throw a couple of humbuckers in it & it will SOUND.) I want something that appeals 2 ME i dont really give a rats rear portion,(as they probably blank out arse It is such a BAD word) if no body else likes what it looks like. Having said that i dont mean u guys r without voice! Just that i do have some ideas. I didnt get to b 50 by rushing in 2 everything & throwing chafe in the wind & expecting it to land in ny hands.

Yeah the piece of timber does look like im building a solid body it is 42 mm thick & i have to get it to like 7mm uniform thickness but also looking through the block from end elevation, it has to get the carved shape im after. I.E. the view of a female torso from the rear is what im going 4 looks wise.

CorduroyEW Just so we can get a better idea of what you are doing, and to be sure you are getting the right things planed out

How wide is the upper bout? 300mm

How wide is the lower bout? 330mm

How wide is the waist? 240mm

How long is the guitar? is this body or overall (body approx 500mm)

What scale length? dunno (ideas ?)

F holes or some other type of hole? (i want 2 try & use a knothole)

What bracing patter will you be using (X bracing or parallel) being longish would i b better using parrallel?

Will the top be out of Myrtle too or just the back? (I have plenty of Myrtle) so was gonna use it on everything (Yes No) Is it ok 4 a neck?

How deep will the body be? Im aiming 4 approx 4" / 100mm

How thick are the top and back plates that you are starting with before you start carving into the? 42mm
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 4, 2006,
#21
sorry 4 posting on posts but it is 7 in the morning ive been at my computer 4 like 2 hours waiting so i wont wake up the neighbours with some electrical tools I want 2 get on with me build CANT THEY UNDERSTANT THAT. It is Saterday morn they should be up. Ya only sleep in on work days isnt that right?
Richard

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#22
k someone wanna explain exactly what a "bout" is?
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#23
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k someone wanna explain exactly what a "bout" is?


yeah im waiting 4 cord 2 give me a heads up re the 'bout'

BTW here is the rough cut shape (used my circular with sliding guard removed)"NOT ADVISED" though im probably gonna use the same routine to gouge some of the spoon shape on the inside of the top
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 7, 2006,
#24
Well i spent the last half hour scooping some of the inside (top) out with the circular(modded) it does a gr8 job should be almost able 2 get rid of my unneeded timber with it (there is a fair bit 2 come off it)

here ya go

more
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 7, 2006,
#25
Tbh if you want to build a nice archtop at least have a look a the bendetto book, some place near you that sell it are carbatec (Auburn) and Gilet Guitars (botany)

Using a circular saw like that sounds pretty dangerous and hard to get an acurate thickness.
#26
Well here is the top approx 1/2 way down 2 height still have 10 > 13mm to still remove. I cant believe that it is actually my hands that r making this. Im not doing anything else except picking up this tiny little plane (i bought 4 $2 when i was 11) i bought it at a modeling store 4 use with balsa wood (used 2 make model planes as a kid) & simply rubbing it forward & back & my hands just seem to know what 2 do .. CAUSE 2 ME IT IS LOOKING AWESOME

I put a pic of the little plane , maybe someone can ID it 4 me. It would b 30 years old. Best part after taking approx 15mm off the top of the deck with this plane i had chipped the blade in several places (some sort of razor blade but is 3mm thick that is 1 thick razor blade [not like 'GEM' blades) so i was dirty thinking after 30 years i might not b able 2 buy them any more. Then i realised that in an anal person & 30 years ago i would not have bought a razor blade plane without some (u guessed it) spare blades. I knew i would have bought spares when purchased but figured i would have used them all. After a couple of hours it hit me that i had been working with balsa wood 30 years ago when i was last using it, & what was the chances of chipping/breaking a blade on that. So i went through an old unbuilt airplane project, (i never started the project as it was 2 simple, i used 2 build the planes i built from scratch, wow at 11 i must have had brains then) & guess what there was a brand NEW set of blades 30 yrs old all sealed in their little wax paper sleeves, u bloody ripper back on with the build. I'll post a pic of the blades & the plane is probably the same brand as it seems a slightly specialised unit, dunno

Oh I borrowed my wifes dig cam it is a bit better than mine so the pics r a bit better



Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 7, 2006,
#27
Floppy disk + 30 yr old plane = awesome
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#28
So what is the final thickness you are aiming for?

If you haven't done it already, I would suggest drawing up a full size set of blueprints. It really does a lot to help everything come together and helps you to know things like where to put the F holes and where the bridge is going to sit. I couldn't tell you how many people I know that have ruined their 1st guitar because they didn't draw out blueprints and as a result something important didn't line up.
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#29
simply rubbing it forward & back & my hands just seem to know what 2 do...


They always do

Nice build, its a shame that you can't have better quality pictures.... you should use photobucket or putfile... one of those hosting webs.....


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#30
Hi all, im at second stage of ripping the deck down 2 height (almost there)

Hey Cord Im trying 2 get to 5 > 7mm. Does this sound like O.K.
also i fully understand what u r saying about blueprinting, (im also a motor mech I used 2 build race motors 4 boats Blueprinting is a must) having said that, i used 2 build to somebody elses blueprints, as i have a learning dissability. I can NOT measure ANYTHING correctly,
i.e. u give me blueprints & i will stuff up every time, however u give me a man made "anything" & so long as i cab grasp the concept in my head i can then go & build it, it is something i have always been able to do. Im a problem solver!!
As 4 specs well ive always learnt to trust my instincts (they have got me to 50 & i have never failed at anything ive tried in my life), I just know in my heart that i want this!! & i know who i am, if i now decide 2 try & do it the CORRECT WAY that it will sit in the corner of my garage & never c the light of day again. Im not trying 2 b negative or to in any way deminish your ideas or skills (both r self evident on viewing your build) I just know me!

Cord Im almost finished the deck & am really paranoid of the sides. Is there a problem with me carving/shaping a bottom & sides the same way im doing the deck, i.e. layering like 4 pieces together (2 side by side then another 2 side by side & glue all 4 together so it is a block the same width as the original but twice as thick) then gouging out till i have a huge bowl with 5mm sides (am i being clear ?)

Also Cord i answered all those Q's u posted earlier in my thred, if ya want 2 take a look, & thanks fo your input it is MOST appriciated.
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 4, 2006,
#31
1st let me say, im talking solely on my own behalf
Im not trying 2 b a smart arse or take anything away from any1 but i figure the guys who were building guitars 3 or 4 centuries ago just sat down with a tree, a chisel or adzs & got started it is that easy as far as im concerned, like Nike says just do it.

This is the inside 'deck' scoop down 3 parts the way with the circular only.

front dow 3 parts of the way
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 7, 2006,
#32
Hey 1 good thing about doing a build My rats love the fresh bedding constantly
i.e. sawdust ( i have a Diamond Python) keep the rats as food sorce. Off topic but who cares ...............-------------- .......... im waiting for the lightning bolt 2 come strike me down 4 being off topic sorry guys i dont know where my head is at this morning.


I decided 2 start on the inside of the deck, so i figured i need some sort of hand tool 2 do it with. I got an old knife blade that has been kicking around in my tool box for like 20 years or more , used it as a scraper a few times, it is a good quality bit of steel thats why i kept it. So i ground the blade off & sharpened the handle end of the blade , till i got roughly the radius that i want for the tightest part of the inner side of the arch. Works OK will be almost able to get to sanding stage with it. & a few days work Ho Ho.


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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 7, 2006,
#33
could you just edit instead of triple posting every time?

BTW its looking a lot better now!


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#34
I was scooping out the deck & after a couple of hours was down maybe 3mm so i figured stuff this, this is 2 damn slow. so i tried my dremmel but none of the bits were of any use as they were heavy sanding spools & very small grinding milling bits, u would b there next year still trying if u used them. I figured Dremmel probably sell exactly the bit im after. However being a poor pensioner i havent got 2 cents 2 rub together. So buying something was out of the question. I thought hard (had a couple of cones) then had a brainstorm, i.e. what is it i want 2 do , i want 2 move a heap of timber safely without putting in jepordy the project itself, i kept coming up with dremmel, so i fashoned a blade for my dremmel that im embaressed 2 say works SO WELL 1 of u guys will steal the idea & i'll c u on the T.V. at 4am flogging it, & u r welcome 2.
I'll post the pics thes horns of my guitar i scooped out like in 10mins each side.
The pic of the spindle without the sanding sleeve was MK1 it didnt have any depth control, only how well u held the dremmel, MK2 was to fit the broken end of a hacksaw blade (just snap it off so the hole on the end of the hacksaw blade is right in the middle of the broken piece) screw it onto 1 of the dremmel sanding sleves & u r done. If u look a the pics be sure 2 notice that the sanding disc acts as your depth gauge allowing the blade 2 rip merry hell but only to the distance that the blade overhangs the sanding disc then the sanding disc starts to dig , this is easily seen & after 2mins u wont believe how much u have done. Im sitting here completly covered in sawdust but i got heaps done
Oh just for the record the MK1 actually had the same blade on it as the MK2, but in case u have 1 of those dremmel cutting wheel spindle/clamp i would advise against the MK1 as it kept comming loose & shot off accross the room (never 2 b c'n again), with the MK2 the rubber that holds the sanding sleve on also cushions the constant shock on the spindle so it dont come loose. Something i c as VERY IMPORTANT

this was the MK 1 It had the same blade but kept coming loose & had no depth control

this is the MK2
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 7, 2006,
#35
Youve got some balls going for an archtop build first, old man. I salute you.

Its not looking bad actually... Especially for a fist timer. I would have expected any other one to give up in the planning phase. Since you say your a pensioner, you may want to go ahead and start your search for woods for the sides and back so its not all myrtle...
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#36
Quote by The1963Riffer
Youve got some balls going for an archtop build first, old man. I salute you.

Its not looking bad actually... Especially for a fist timer. I would have expected any other one to give up in the planning phase. Since you say your a pensioner, you may want to go ahead and start your search for woods for the sides and back so its not all myrtle...


Yeah Riffer im actually thinking of layering 4 pieces approx size of the deck. planeing them & stickinging them together so i have a piece of timber double as thick as the original piece but the same shape, then scooping the whole bloody thing out till im left with just the sides approx 5mm & the back (shaped similar 2 the deck) & 5mm thick even the neck & fingerboard i was going 2 use U GUESSED IT myrtle, i have plenty of Myrtle & it costs nothin if ya already own it. The whole g-tar should be approx 120mm > 130mm thick
Richard

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Last edited by Dix_Fix at Aug 5, 2006,
#37
a couple things.

1st, You need to keep in mind that archtops don't need the sides to be as thick as flattop guitars. 75mm deep sides would be considared very deep. If you get any deeper then that your guitar is going to lack definition and it's going to sound tubby.

2nd, it is rather important to actualy bend the sides. If you carve they won't be as strong, especialy at the end grain. If you bend the sides you can thin them down to around 2 or 3 mm. If you carve the side you need to leave them at at least 25mm and possibly even thicker then that at the end grain. All that extra weight will kill the tone of your guitar.
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#38
O.K. Thanks Cord, much appriciated, re the scooping of the sides/back.

Well looks like im bending the sides, O.K. next how 2 make some form of bender? Off the top of my head it sounds reasonably simple process albeit VERY VERY fiddly & heaps of clamps, i'll be out 2day scouring the $2 shops(nickle & dime) 4 a dozen clamps.

Necessity being the mother of invention, im sure ill come up with something. If u have any Pearls of wisdom in this reguard or ideas on a "CHEAP" (read "no cost") method id b forever deeper in your debt.

I WILL work out a cheap way of bending. I thought maybe getting an old electric stove top off junk nite & using 1 of the elements & switches. Straightening the element then rebending it round a piece of pipe several times & using the switch to give u regulation (as it does on the stovetop) I figure 2 use a piece of pipe that i can use 4 all the bends dunno , sound like something that will work??

What about a steam box, I remember my grandfather bending gum saplings with a jerrybuilt steambox.
Richard

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#39
Use a blowtorch and and pipe. I've only used the heating blanket you saw in my thread 1 time. There was 1 time when I used the kitchen stove, and all the other times I used a blowtorch and a 3" radius aluminum pipe.

soak the wood in water for about 10 min, then wrap it in damp paper towles and then in tin foil. Bend the tightest bends 1st. In your case it will be the cutaways.

After you gend the sides you will want to clamp them into some kind of mold so that they can keep their shape. I have only used a mold a couple times but when there are bends that are as tight as the bends for your cutaways you will need molds.
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