#1
I have an Epiphone Thunderbird and the action is way too high. Can anyone tell me how to fix this? I don't really have a measurement on how high it is but when I do try to lower it it gets too much buzz.

HELP!
BRIGHT LIGHTS PUT ME IN A TRANCE.
but it aint house music that makes me want to dance.
#2
lower down the bridge, try sanding down the nut of the guitar...and if it doesn't work, take it to a shop and have them fix it by adjusting the truss rod (don't recommend this unless there's no other way out)
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#3
I lower the bridge and I just get more fret buzz
BRIGHT LIGHTS PUT ME IN A TRANCE.
but it aint house music that makes me want to dance.
#4
Lower the saddles?
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#5
im a noob what are the saddles?
BRIGHT LIGHTS PUT ME IN A TRANCE.
but it aint house music that makes me want to dance.
#6
I would recommend checking the truss rod first it's not hard to do, heres a link http://www.gtrdan.com/tools/truss.php I would then adjust the bridge to lower the action. I would not even think about filing the nut. To do that requires a special set of files for each guage of string. You can not simply remove the nut and file the backside down as it is glued in.
#8
I would say don't start out by adjusting the truss rod because you can really screw up the neck. Start by lowering your saddles. You will probably need an Allen wrench to lower it.

I also read somewhere that if you press down on any string at the fret where the neck meets the body (I think it's around 17) the space between the string and 8th fret I believe, should be about as thick as a credit card. Any higher and it's "too high."

My advice, lower one string at a time, play it, make sure there's not fret buzz and it's low enough for you, and just repeat this for each string.
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#9
well take it to a local "experiaced" bassist or guitarist who knows stuff (like my friend for instance) fix it up and see if your neck is warped or u just need to get the action lowered
#10
Any good setup involves inspecting the truss rod and adjusting it. It should be reinspected and adjusted after lowering the action. If you follow the simple instructions on the link provided, you will not "screw up" your neck. How many of you actually do stuff like this a for a living? By the way in his type of bridge, you can't just lower the saddles. Know what you are talking about before giving advice.
#11
^If you don't know what you're doing you can do some real damage.

Some people feel they don't need directions. I wasn't trying to say it will always screw up your neck but it is possible if you don't know what you're doing.
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-Peavey T-40 (1982)
-Hartke HA-3500
-Aguilar GS 2x12
-GK Backline 2x10
#12
get rid of it and get a better bass
Look Left>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Left you idiot
#13
mister389, you're a total dickhead
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#14
Quote by Your41Plague12
mister389, you're a total dickhead


lol, i calls em as i sees em
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#15
Hold the bass so that you are looking down the neck from the bridge side. Do you notice any curvature?

If you see the neck bent so that the headstock bends forward, you have forward bow. Loosen the strings a little, tighten the trussrod 1/4 turn, then retune the strings. If the neck still has forward bow, repeat the process.

If you see the neck bent so that the headstock bends backwards, you have backbow. Loosen the strings a little, loosen the trussrod 1/4 turn, then retune the strings. If the neck still has backbow, repeat the process.

Once the neck is as straight as you can get it with the strings at pitch, check the neck again to see if it has any side-to-side twist to it. If it does, the neck cannot be adjusted further by you, and needs a professional to fix the neck. The way to check for neck twist is to look carefully at the frets--they should be parallel with each other.

Okay, assuming the neck is straight, try playing the bass. If you still have fret buzz, you may need to adjust the bridge. Most bridges have some play in height adjustment--if yours is a 3 point bridge (as in the case of many Gibson basses), you need a flathead screwdriver to raise or lower the action. Lower the tension on the strings and then use the screwdriver to carefully (so as to not slip and scratch your bass) raise or lower the bridge 1/4 turn at a time.

By the way, some bassists like a little forward bow in their basses, so I leave that to your tastes. The straightest neck is the preferred standard though, and it is what you should start with before adjusting the bridge.

In more elaborate basses, the saddles can also be moved forwards or backwards along the string length--this is purely for intonation. If the fretted note at the 12th fret is flat compared to the harmonic sounded at the 12th fret, you need to move the saddle forwards (towards the headstock). you need a tuner for this adjustment.

Some saddles (like in Fender basses) can also be adjusted for height individually, using hex screws. Gibson basses generally do not use these, but if yours does, you may want to make the most of it by adjusting each individual string height to your tastes.

On my fretless Carvin LB-70F, I have to adjust the truss rod every 6 months or so, due to remperature changes with the seasons. The sooner you get familiar with these things, the more fine-tuned your bass will be to your playing style.

Good luck!
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Last edited by jaco de lucia at Aug 10, 2006,