#1
I might build a LP with a maple top, the question is, how big do I need my top to be lengthwise?

I know the maple top must be at least 5/8" but what widht and lenght do I need?
Also, can I use only 1 very big piece or do I need 2 strips?


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#2
one peice is cool for a plain maple top. usualy theres only too when its bookmatched figured maple. they take on peice and split it down the middle to get the two matching sides.
#3
obviously its figured..... ok, so I need two pieces... what sizes?

22.25" X 8.25" X .28" is too thin right?


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#4
Yes, that's more of a veneer/droptop.

5/8" or 3/4" thick would be your best bet. Length and width is up to you. It matters how big or small you want this guitar to be. I don't have any measurements for a Les Paul, but if you bought some stencils(these will come in handy for drawing lines), you could have exact length and width.
Last edited by metallicaman80 at Aug 10, 2006,
#5
I have the advantage that my family owns a CNC router that my dad uses for his work, wich means that the templates would be useless... anyway, what width and lenght do I need?


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#6
Ask someone with a les paul, and then find out the least amount of wood you can use for that. Then cut that board in half if you want it to be bookmatched.
#7
3/4" x 14" x 19" (thickness x width x length)

Don't order it or have it shipped until you're ready to cut it and glue it the day you recieve it. It will warp.
'Aim at perfection in everything, though in most things it is unattainable. However, they who aim at it, and persevere, will come much nearer to it than those whose despondency and laziness make them give it up as unattainable.'
#8
Quote by AlGeeEater
Don't order it or have it shipped until you're ready to cut it and glue it the day you recieve it. It will warp.



The joy of working with figured wood
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#9
The misery of working with figured woods.
'Aim at perfection in everything, though in most things it is unattainable. However, they who aim at it, and persevere, will come much nearer to it than those whose despondency and laziness make them give it up as unattainable.'
#10
is there any way from keeping it from warping?

Also, I should glue, let dry for "X" time and cut after that right?

how much time should I let it dry before cutting?


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#11
Not reallly. You can keep it under some weights on something flat, but the changing temp. and climates will have an effect on the wood.

I usually join & center the top, draw the shape out onto the top, rough cut it & then glue it on. Then once it's done drying i'll clean it up with a router and a pattern bit.

Depends on what glue you're using, clamps you're using, weather conditions, etc, etc. With titebond, i'll leave it clamped up for about an hour or two depending on the weather, unclamp it and bring it inside to dry for 12-24 hours. Then i'll clean it up.

Chris
'Aim at perfection in everything, though in most things it is unattainable. However, they who aim at it, and persevere, will come much nearer to it than those whose despondency and laziness make them give it up as unattainable.'
#12
And what if I buy the wood on a local store?

I won't draw anything.... as I said before, my family owns a CNC router so rough cuts are actually a problem for me....


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#13
sorry for the double post but I want to know... can I actually cut before it dries?


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#14
That would not be advised. Just be patient. Do you have a deadline to meet or something?
#16
What do you mean? You join it, center it, draw the outline, cut it, then glue. I don't think he said that, but I could be wrong. I'm not being sarcastic either.
#17
I stated twice already that I don't have a common router, I use a CNC one so its basically a dumb thing to cut first and then glue in my case....


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#18
^ you are missing ahuge part of the converstaion man


heres some questions

1- are you using a figured top

2- are you bookmatching it?

3- what ar eyour plans with the CnC machine?

also- wtf are you talking about drying??
#19
Quote by tongue untied
^ you are missing ahuge part of the converstaion man


heres some questions

1- are you using a figured top

2- are you bookmatching it?

3- what ar eyour plans with the CnC machine?

also- wtf are you talking about drying??



Yes, yes, cut the shape of a les paul off the wood.

I am talking about the glue drying....


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#20
k- id let it dry 24-48 hours with weight on it

and how thick is the top youre using- if its a venner- id put sandbags on it on a flat surface to ensure a good even securing to the wood ntm the top being flat


but it depends on the glue youre using- i prefer titebond the original- mainly cuz its worked for me- and everyone suggests it
#21
I am still not building anything, I want to make sure I have all I need (both info and items) before actually starting the build but probably a 3/4" top and a 1 1/2 back... not sure though....


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#22
Standard LP's have a 5/8" top on a 1-3/4" back, but 5/8" is pushing a good deep carve.

Anyways, if you're going to throw this onto a CNC you have to glue the top onto the body. There's no other way to do it, unless you cut the body out of the back first, then place the top onto the CNC and have it cut that seperatly, which is a waste of time. Find the exact center of the body black, line the tops up with that, glue & clamp it up for 2 hours, remove the clamps, let dry and let the CNC carve the guitar out.

Chris
'Aim at perfection in everything, though in most things it is unattainable. However, they who aim at it, and persevere, will come much nearer to it than those whose despondency and laziness make them give it up as unattainable.'
#23
Thats why I was asking.... I thought thats what I had to do... although I will just route the main shape and pup/control holes with the CNC, the carving will be done by my own hands...


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#24
Sorry to bump but this thread has been long dead and I have a couple of news,

First, i already got my neck, bought it off ebay and i will refinish it and change its nut, maybe i will also buy a new fretboard but i have to wait a couple of weeks until it arrives.

Second, according to AlGee

Quote by AlGeeEater
Standard LP's have a 5/8" top on a 1-3/4" back, but 5/8" is pushing a good deep carve.


And after a lot of thinking, isn't 2 1/2" a little bit too thick?

Its a reality, I will be doing this build


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#25
No. Go to a guitar store and measure the sides of a Les Paul. 2" on the edge, 2-1/2" in the center top of the carve.

Chris
'Aim at perfection in everything, though in most things it is unattainable. However, they who aim at it, and persevere, will come much nearer to it than those whose despondency and laziness make them give it up as unattainable.'
#26
oh, ok so i must carve half inch on the sides?
now it makes sense... at least a little bit more...

I have been reading a lot about the carving and building process, it doesnt seem to be as difficult as it once used to, I am taking my time to study the process...


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#27
Carving is pretty easy with an angfle grinder & a 40 grit sanding flap. Nothing beats hand planes though. There's tons of way to carve tops though.

Chris
'Aim at perfection in everything, though in most things it is unattainable. However, they who aim at it, and persevere, will come much nearer to it than those whose despondency and laziness make them give it up as unattainable.'
#28
or you could use a good chisel. That is my solution to all problems. Use a good chisel. I use my 1.5" Japanese chisel for damn near everything. Carving looks hard but if you can get your tools sharp then it's easy. Whith dull tools it is even harder than it look.
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#29
My dad says he has a couple of hand planes somewhere around the house... I'll have to search for them...


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UniverseZero is some kind of pwnerer of numerals

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your avatar entertains me.