#1
Hello,

Like 2 hours ago i just bought a peavey triumph 60, and it was working great and just then it died. It barely makes any sound now, and when i put the volume at 10 i get this really weird growl type sound.

Any ideas what could be wrong?
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#2
I'm not familiar with that amp, what kind of amp is it? If it's a tube amp, then the tubes are the likely culprit. If it's solid state, there are a lot more variables.
"The fool doth think he is wise, but the wiseman knows himself to be a fool." - W.S.
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#3
if its a SS and u turned it up to 10 (presuming thats the highest) you've probably blown some fuses or some of that mumbo jumbo
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#6
why would it explode?

and it has brand new tubes in it. What is a way to tell if they're broken?
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#7
It probably was defective, or the amp was.

You can stick your penis inside the amp and see what happens though.

If you feel a shock, then its your tube, otherwise, it's the amp.

Use your warranty.
#9
This is from my Mesa manual, but the same principles should apply.

Quote by Mesa Manual


DIAGNOSING POWER TUBE FAILURES: There are two main types of tube faults: shorts and noise. Both large and small tubes may fall prey to either of these problems but diagnosis and remedy is usually simple. If a fuse blows, the problem is most likely a shorted power tube and shorts can either be mild or severe. In a mildly shorted tube the electron flow has overcome the control grid and excess current flows to the plate. You will usually hear the amp become distorted and begin to hum slightly. If this occurs, quickly look at the power tubes as you switch the amp to STANDBY and try to identify one as glowing red hot. It is likely that two of a pair will be glowing since the ?shorted? tube will pull down the bias for its adjacent mates, but one tube may be glowing hotter ? and that one is the culprit. The other two are often fine ? unless they?ve been glowing bright red for several minutes.

Because there is no physical short inside the tube (just electrons rioting out of control) merely switching to STANDBY for a few moments then back to ON will usually cure the problem...at least temporarily. Watch the tubes carefully now. Should the problem recur, the intermittent tube will visibly start to over heat before the others and thus it can be identified. It should be replaced with one from the same color batch, shown on its label. Call us and we will send one out to you. The severe short is not nearly so benign. In the worst cases, a major arcing short occurs between the plate and the cathode with visible lightning inside the glass and a major noise through the speaker. If this is seen to happen, IMMEDIATELY turn the amp to STANDBY. By this time the fuse probably will have blown. Such a short is usually caused by a physical breakdown inside the tube including contaminate coming loose or physical contact (or near contact) between the elements. Replace it and the fuse with the proper slo-blo type and power up the amp using the power up procedure as we described earlier in this manual.
"The fool doth think he is wise, but the wiseman knows himself to be a fool." - W.S.
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#10
ok thanks guys,

i just turned it on again and its fine, but i'm taking it back anyway cause i don't want it to be constantly cutting in an out.
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#11
it's obviously temperature related. i had a similar problem with my marshall valvestate, turned out to be dry solder joints that lost full connection when the amp got hot and things expanded. mine was out of warranty but i had an electronics engineer fix it for me, didnt cost a lot.

get it back to the shop, but you need to demonstrate the problem by letting the amp get hot.
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#12
woooooooooooo
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#13
thanks everyone
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