#1
Alright, in my school, here are several things I want to do to my guitar.

1) Screw it.

2) Scallop the 19-24 frets with the reference of these 2 sites

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/scal1.htm

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/scalloped.htm

3) Mod my trem cavity



Sand the red bits away so my trem has a wider range, this is to gain woodwork experience.

Yea, I will make another thread about this when I begin, right now I want advice.
#2
I dont think your gonna get a bigger range by just sanding off the part behind the cavity especially with 5 springs. i think u have a grounding problem there too but im not an expert at that
#3
For the upper frets, you'll be gald to know, you do NOT need all the tools specified in your first link...this link is for scalloping upper frets http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/scalloped.htm (your second link) ... all thats needed is a 1/4" Round File.

And I think you've got me wanting scalloped frets too!
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Last edited by La Qotsa at Aug 15, 2006,
#4
Quote by suckasucks
I dont think your gonna get a bigger range by just sanding off the part behind the cavity especially with 5 springs. i think u have a grounding problem there too but im not an expert at that


That's not my guitar, i was showing the parts I am going to sand off in MY guitar, it has 3 springs.
#5
for a full fret scallop, i would recommend getting big round sanding blocks, and cutting the to the size of your frets, more expensive, but easier and you can reuse it again and again.
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#6
I am going for a lighter scallop so maybe filing then sanding, I am going to be using my eyes so..
#7
how much wood will you be sanding away. cos if you plan it out you can take off ****loads of wood for big big divebombs
#8
Well I am just going to sand out the bottom half of the wood so my bridge does't screw up. And for pitch raises again, I am just going to sand away the bottom half, then maybe my trem can compete with a FR
Not the tuning stability though, and maybe responsiveness, but the back of the bridge is always going to hit the body, anyway to get around this?
#9
Quote by Invictious
Well I am just going to sand out the bottom half of the wood so my bridge does't screw up. And for pitch raises again, I am just going to sand away the bottom half, then maybe my trem can compete with a FR
Not the tuning stability though, and maybe responsiveness, but the back of the bridge is always going to hit the body, anyway to get around this?


get a floyd rose otherwise only problem i can see is the bridge plate hitting the body since your pulling up so high
#10
Quote by azn_guitarist25
get a floyd rose otherwise only problem i can see is the bridge plate hitting the body since your pulling up so high


Yea, thats the problem I am afraid that's going to happen, besides raising the bridge ridiculously high like mine, I don't see any other method to get through that, or bend the bridge plate up?
#11
Quote by Invictious
Yea, thats the problem I am afraid that's going to happen, besides raising the bridge ridiculously high like mine, I don't see any other method to get through that, or bend the bridge plate up?


nope cause you could **** up your saddles. just sand the top part of the body where the bridge plate would hit sand half of that away and do like a floyd rose-esque route job
#12
I don't get the wider range thing. Even with the bar pushed to the pickguard, the block shouldn't touch the back of the cavity. And you can only pull it up untill the bridge is flat on the body, and then the block still shouldn't be touching.
These go to eleven...
#13
Yes, but that's gonna be pretty difficult and going to take a long time.

ok, so that's all planned, now the refinishing, nothing to do for refinishing because I didn't sand any paint off?
#14
good luck with it mate
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#15
I'd like to see the outcome of this and hear what YOU think of it man.
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#18
Quote by Alhambra
Not to sound like an idiot, but what do scalloped necks do?


Why not go read the links.
#19
Quote by Invictious
Heh, watch me, buddy, I am sure you all guys will be jealous


Hehe, I'm actually thinking of doing it myself
Wanna see how yours goes.
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Last edited by La Qotsa at Aug 16, 2006,
#20
why dont you sand away some of the wood to the back of the bridge, that way it has room to go past and you can bend up...then it would make sense to sand out the front half of the trem cavity
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#21
^ Hes got a point, i was about to say you dont need to sand the two left parts you have circled, as its impossible for the trem block to hit that because the bridge will be flush against the body before it hits that. Unless, however, you shaved some of the wood from underneath the bridge in a floyd rosey kinda way.
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#22
Yea, I am going to do that, but I am not sure if the structure allows it, people with a vintage trem, you will notice that it's pretty tricky.

I probably will just sand the bottom bit of the big circle.

Problem: When the bar hits the body, I can go further, and the only way to do that is to get the bar the other way, and then push it.
#23
Sooo....how did this go dude? What are these scallops like?
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#25
Quote by Invictious
It's going to start in 1 to 3 weeks.


Ah I see, keep us informed please
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#26
Yes no problem, I am going to see the tools that I have access too and start planning.
Will start new thread.
#27
Sanding out the cavity won't let you bend up or anything man. That's just not how the trem works.
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#28
Quote by That_Pink_Queen
Sanding out the cavity won't let you bend up or anything man. That's just not how the trem works.


Hmm, enlighten me please, just because I owned you in drawing

Well I am not content with my current range of trem, there is a whole lot of school resources waiting for me to utilize, I am bored, I am not going to get a bloody FR, so what can I do?
#29
The way the trem is held on the guitar...just look at it. the trem isn't constricted by the wood in the body, if you look at it now you still can't bend it upwards, even though the trem block doesn't touch the side of the cavity.

You need to take a good look at your trem bud. You didn't own me, your pictures own yourself, nub.
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#31
Quote by That_Pink_Queen
The way the trem is held on the guitar...just look at it. the trem isn't constricted by the wood in the body, if you look at it now you still can't bend it upwards, even though the trem block doesn't touch the side of the cavity.

You need to take a good look at your trem bud. You didn't own me, your pictures own yourself, nub.


Actually no.

If you losen the springs at the back you will back the plate is lifted off the body, and those screws in front of the brdige (to the neck) are lifted, they can be parallel, and but lifted up in tune, even to around 3 semitones!
#32
I don't think you need to take out any wood to make a floating tremelo set up, buddy.
I had that set up on my old strat w/o any body modifications
#33
GOD what the hell is wrong with you forsaknazrael, can you not read?

I said taking out wood to INCREASE range, and I said it was ALREADY floating without any modifications
#34


Good luck.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#35
Quote by Invictious
GOD what the hell is wrong with you forsaknazrael, can you not read?

I said taking out wood to INCREASE range, and I said it was ALREADY floating without any modifications



Sheesh, I saw the part about increasing, but I didn't know you had a it floating already, my bad, man.
Calm down.

EDIT: Actually, in no part of this thread did you ever say anything about it being a floating tremelo.
Last edited by forsaknazrael at Aug 22, 2006,