#1
So I'm thinking about getting a Laney VC30. Looks cool, good for what I like to play and all that. The only problem I see, is it has a parellel loop and I prefer my signal completely wet. I know you can change it, but how? Is it hard? What's the parellel loop actually in parallel with, my guess is just a wire/track that completely bypasses the loop and rejoins at the other end. Hmm.

Thanks
Jim.
These go to eleven...
#2
I could be wrong, but on the ones I've seen with parallel loops there are blend controls - just turn it all the way up to drown out the bypassed signal. Alternatively, open it up (or get someone else to) and cut the bypass signal line.
#3
YES! A QUESTION FROM SOMEBODY WHO'S NOT A N00B! SOMEBODY WHO ALREADY KNOWS WHAT "PARALLEL" MEANS!

I'm finding a schem now.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#4


Pretty simple. That's the FX loop right there. There will always be some dry seeping through. If you disconnect that 100k resistor that parallels the jacks, it should shut the whole signal through the FX loop.
Might as well put in a mini SPST toggle to turn it on and off. Doesn't look like much work at all. With the parallel turned off, the FX volume will just be another volume really. You could use a switch with more poles to bypass it when you turn off the parallel, but IMO it's not worth the trouble. You might want to mess with the other resistors in the signal path to and from the jacks, because there will be more current flowing through there now that the signal isn't split.


Hope that helped somewhat.

EDIT:
DUDE! THE AMP HAS A 5V TAP! ADD A TUBE RECTIFIER! 5Y3/GZ34 FOR SOME AWESOME SAG!
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#5
Quote by That_Pink_Queen
EDIT:
DUDE! THE AMP HAS A 5V TAP! ADD A TUBE RECTIFIER! 5Y3/GZ34 FOR SOME AWESOME SAG!

It's a laney... I doubt the iron could take it.


For sale: Early 1985 Ibanez AH10 (Allan Holdsworth signature model) PM for details
#7
Thanks, Chris. I originally found this. On page 14 theres a block diagram. So then I just thought I could do this...



and I have a series/parallel switch. But then, with nothing in the loop, everything will go through the reverb, unless it's off ofcourse, then nothing will go through. But then I'll have it in parallel mode. But if I happen to flick it into series, with reverb off, amp on. Will I damage something? What are those diodes for on the parallel thing?

Where did you find that schem? Is it the actual VC30 one!
These go to eleven...
#8
http://rockgardenlove.com/laneyvc30.pdf
I put it on my server...can't remember where I got it before. It's the real schem.

They're a bit different...but in the worst case, you can just relocate where the reverb hooks up. It shouldn't be hard at all to do that, just break a trace underneith the board, and solder a wire jumper onto the 220k to hook it up where you need to. On my schematic, you won't have to move it though.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#9
what are those components labelled p?

From an EE point of view they usually represent pins or pads, areas you can use to easily take a test reading to check voltages are what they should be, or to check that wires to ground have continuity. Of course, they could be completely different because tube amplifier schematics often don't follow conventional standards. If that is what they are, I don't know why they would put two next to each other, like p20 and p38.
#12
Did you get this to work. I want to do the same thing to my VC30. If you did, is there any noticable difference in tone?