#1
I think there is a circuit problem and I dont know how to fix it. Im testing where the problem is by using one of those current testers. I touch one end to the input jack and touch the other to one leg of a capacitor and it shows a signal so thats fine. Then I touch One end to the input jack and touch the other to the same capacitor but other leg but it does not show a signal. This is a problem isnt it?
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#2
You are using a continuity tester. You dont want both sides of a component to have a current together. That would mean that the component is shorted. So that is right. Is this for the Treble Boost? Did you use all the right stuff? Put the transistor in right? Wire it right?
#3
Quote by call1800ksmyazz
You are using a continuity tester. You dont want both sides of a component to have a current together. That would mean that the component is shorted. So that is right. Is this for the Treble Boost? Did you use all the right stuff? Put the transistor in right? Wire it right?

Ya I think I did everything fine. I checked it a few times. What do you mean you dont want both sides of a component to have a current together.shouldnt the current keep going from the input jack all the way past the capacitor and go to other components and such. The problem is is that the current doesnt go past the capacitor. Atleast the bypass works fine on my pedal lol.
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#4
You see, the current goes through the component, but if you get continuity from one side to the other, that means both sides are shorted (connected) to eachother. If every component was shorted together, then every part on the board would be there acting just like a jumper wire doing nothing.
#5
Well then I dont know why my circuit doesent work I think its the gay pot thats confusing me. Theres 5 connectors. The schematic tells me to use 3 of the legs as I see it. One for ground, another to connect to .1 capacitor and another to connect to bypass. But I dont know which of the 5 to use for what.
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#7
Quote by call1800ksmyazz
y would your pot have 5 lugs!?!?

I dont know... It looks like this...

(Invalid img)
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#8
Alright this is what the pot is called "1/2 watt potentiometer c/w amp switch, 500k ohms"
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#10
Quote by call1800ksmyazz
can you take a picture of it? and also tell me which lugs you did use...

(Invalid img)

Therse three in the centre and two on either side as you can see. I only use the three centre ones so... Third and second together and the 1st used as ground. I made sure that I turned the pot the right way, and I checked to make sure that current runs through it.
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#12
Quote by call1800ksmyazz
Ok, using the center ones is right.

You connected them wrong though...
Lug 1: capacitor
Lug 2: output
Lug 3: ground

lug 1 from the left or right?
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#14
Nope doesnt work.
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#16
Quote by call1800ksmyazz
Did you do veroboard, perfoboard, or PCB?

I used a proto board. The ones where you dont have to solder you just stick it in the holes.
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#18
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#19
ok, you know how the holes are connected right? Basically like this: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/images/bblinks.gif .

A lot of pedals actually dont work on breadboards. Do this on a perminant board so you can have it working. Theres something with breadboards that is proven that they dont operate like perminant boards. On breadboards some pedals work, some dont, some work horribly, etc...
#20
Quote by call1800ksmyazz
ok, you know how the holes are connected right? Basically like this: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/images/bblinks.gif .

A lot of pedals actually dont work on breadboards. Do this on a perminant board so you can have it working. Theres something with breadboards that is proven that they dont operate like perminant boards. On breadboards some pedals work, some dont, some work horribly, etc...

Hmm, I really dont see a difference, thats weird. Kinda scared to convert to a permanent board just in case i mess up :/
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#22
Quote by call1800ksmyazz
Just follow the schematic like you did when you put it in the breadboard.

Alrighty. Ill try to do it tommarow. Doubt ill have time.
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#23
woah

btw, does your pot click when you rotate it all the way in one direction or the other? because if it does it might be a on/off switch + pot. Otherwise it might be a lug with multiple taps? I'm guessing here.

anyway, what were you building again?
any circuit will work on a breadboard unless it's operating at ultra high frequencies (due to inherit capacitence in the breadboard).
#24
Those pots have a built in switch if you turn it all the way to the left. I've seen them most commonly used in the Fender amps with tremolo, so if you turn the speed knob all the way to the left, the tremolo will be off.
At least, I think that's how it works.

And btw, a continuity tester won't go through a capacitor. AC current will go through, but DC won't.
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#25
Alright thanks for clearing it up. Then I really dont know why the circuit doesnt work.
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#26
Put it on a perminant board. I am telling you, it will be better. Half the circuits I have tried on breadboard didnt work, but when I put them on perf or veroboard, they worked great.
#27
Quote by call1800ksmyazz
Put it on a perminant board. I am telling you, it will be better. Half the circuits I have tried on breadboard didnt work, but when I put them on perf or veroboard, they worked great.
Maybe it wasn't wired correctly on the breadboard? (which is conceivably easy thing to do).


But breadboards are mainly for prototyping. Like... I wonder how the gain of this circuit will change when I swap resistor X with resistor Y, and couple it with a capacitor Z. If you're building from a schematic, there's no real point in breadboarding it unless it's not a permanent thing (like what 1800 did for the bazz fuzz, bass fuzz? whatever).
#28
yea. breadboard is fine if you are bored and arent going to keep it. i did it with the bazz fuss. but i have much experience with breadboards not working right. its not going to be the schematic thats wrong, so if its not working on breadboard, put it on perminant. if you follow the schematic correctly on vero/perf then you should have it working right. just do it. theres not many parts involved that you will be wasting if it fails.
#29
Actually I paid 50 bucks for all components and like batteries and a guitar cable. Its funny, I couldnt buy ONE transistor for 35cents. I had to buy a minimum of FOURTY for 14 dollars. Im working on the thing right now, I should finish soon.
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#30
Ok this is retarded. The bypass doesent even work. I tried not using a bypass switch and i just touch the wires together to see if it bypasses and it doesnt. I used an omneter to test if there is connection between one input to the other and there IS! but it doesnt work.
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#31
Recheck the wiring.

The fact is if you wired it right, it will work.

It's not retarded...you're retarded.
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#32
Quote by That_Pink_Queen
Recheck the wiring.

The fact is if you wired it right, it will work.

It's not retarded...you're retarded.

Im not complaining like that. Im saying im confused because the omneter says that bypass should work because it shows connection but when i run the circuit I get no connection. Can you help me out as to why this is the case?
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