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#1
Alright, i'm not gonna lie, when i first came here, i knew nothing about customising guitars, and now after reading up on it, i'm gonna give it a try

I know i can trust you kind folks to either help me, or virtually ass rape me

I have a Squier imitation SG, and i decided to tinker withit, shockingly, the neck seems to be made of rosewood, now i seriously doubt that, so any id help?

i'll post pics in a minute

now i thought i would be a brave lad and do this without any help from you guys, but i was wrong, i already need your help, and i'm not even done sanding.

right i will post pictures and everything if you guys want, but for now, i have a few q's

1) It's a hardtail, what do i do with the metal bits that stay inside the wood? i mean where the studs screw in for both the bridge and the tailpiece

2) what final grit should i use before: primer, paint and clear?

i plan to use this:

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239709&page=1&pp=20

for polishing, but i need some info on steps before that


now here's the plan:

i sanded the neck, and it looks shockingly like a tone wood, from a squier?!?!?!
i was just planning to repaint, and maybe change the hardware to gold, but, if the body is good wood(tehe) as well, i MAY buy new pickups, good pickups.

feel free to comment/question/flame
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#2
the fretboard may be rosewood. don't be that surprised. use like 400 sandpaper inbetween coats. leave lots of drying time between coats. only sand every 2-3 coats. and why would you sand your neck?
Quote by corduroyEW
Cheap amps are "that bad". They suck up your tone like cocaine at Kate Moss' party.


I am Michael!
#3
Sorry to bump, but i'll post pics here:


BEFORE



AFTER SANDING THE NECK WITH 80 GRIT


so once again can anyone id that?

EDIT i sanded the neck cuz it was painted, obviously you didn't know that, and obviously you know that now
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#4
erm, mahogony mebbe? i dont really have a clue, but i know some guitars do have mahogany necks, and not to be irritating or anything, thats a stop tail, not a hard tail bridge
#5
Quote by thesumoftwo
erm, mahogony mebbe? i dont really have a clue, but i know some guitars do have mahogany necks, and not to be irritating or anything, thats a stop tail, not a hard tail bridge



i don't think it's mahogany, maybe though, i'm pretty sure it's rosewood, it's nearly identical to the fretboard, and if i take into consideration that the fingerboard hasn't been sanded and has been exposed for god knows how long, they're probably the same wood, squier was just too lazy to pop a fretboard on.

if it's a stop tail, that what's a hard tail?
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#6
rosewood is way too expensive to make necks out of. sure looks like mahogany. and hard tail just means no tremelo, so it's both.
Quote by corduroyEW
Cheap amps are "that bad". They suck up your tone like cocaine at Kate Moss' party.


I am Michael!
#7
Quote by tubab0y
rosewood is way too expensive to make necks out of. sure looks like mahogany. and hard tail just means no tremelo, so it's both.



haha so i was right,

but mahogany? in a squier? i'm still surprised, squier used like plywood, i spent 299 CAD and got an amp (kustom ten watt), strap, cable and gig bag with it...

maybe i shouldn't complain

EDIT btw sanding the body is hell compared to the neck...

i'm using a sanding sponge thingy, but it's still hard, but it's still alot easier then i expected... maybe squier cut short cuts while painting?
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#8
to remove the post feurrles (sp?), drop some screw or something in it, then screw it back in. un screw it, drop another in, and repeat until its all the way out. easy as hell.

and quit being like "OMG squier uses something other then plywood! OMG!!!!111shift+one" about it, for necks you cant use plywood.
Quote by red star
"If its good enough for gay cowboys, its god enough for you."

Quote by Dyaxe666
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#9
Quote by xmrchainsawx
to remove the post feurrles (sp?), drop some screw or something in it, then screw it back in. un screw it, drop another in, and repeat until its all the way out. easy as hell.

and quit being like "OMG squier uses something other then plywood! OMG!!!!111shift+one" about it, for necks you cant use plywood.



lol jerk, i know but still... i was shocked ok?

anyways, do i really have to take them off? will it be a pain in the ass to put back in securely? because i was hoping i'd work around them... but i guess not?
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#10
to sand down the body, you will have to.
i just did that myself.

im not to sure how hard it will be to put back in, but it was hella easy to take out.

and besides, if your body is made out of ply, you can easily fill the hole up again, then re drill the hole for it, and repress it.

just take them off.
Quote by red star
"If its good enough for gay cowboys, its god enough for you."

Quote by Dyaxe666
you guys are all idiots! SRV played a schecter C1 Blackjack thrugh a metalmaster into a Krankensteing, GOD!
#11
wait so you mean screw the stud in again? then out then in then out then in again? or what i don't understand!
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#12
I hooked the handles of some pliers to lever the posts out. Just put something on the body to stop and dents
"Everybody, one day will die and be forgotten. Act and behave in a way that will make life interesting and fun. Find a passion, form relationships, don't be afraid to get out there and fuck what everyone else thinks."
#13
Quote by seek_&_destroy
wait so you mean screw the stud in again? then out then in then out then in again? or what i don't understand!


put a smaller screw in the hole
screw stud in all the way (the thing should begin to lift)
unscrew stud
put another smaller screw in the hole
screw stud in again

repeat until out.
Quote by red star
"If its good enough for gay cowboys, its god enough for you."

Quote by Dyaxe666
you guys are all idiots! SRV played a schecter C1 Blackjack thrugh a metalmaster into a Krankensteing, GOD!
#14
wait how are they attached to the body? are they glued or screwed in? or just in there?
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#15
Quote by xmrchainsawx
to remove the post feurrles (sp?), drop some screw or something in it, then screw it back in. un screw it, drop another in, and repeat until its all the way out. easy as hell.

and quit being like "OMG squier uses something other then plywood! OMG!!!!111shift+one" about it, for necks you cant use plywood.


actually, yes u can use ply fo necks. theres a bass at my school with a ply neck.
#16
Quote by seek_&_destroy
wait how are they attached to the body? are they glued or screwed in? or just in there?


They're forced in.

They drill a hole, then hammer it in.
Quote by red star
"If its good enough for gay cowboys, its god enough for you."

Quote by Dyaxe666
you guys are all idiots! SRV played a schecter C1 Blackjack thrugh a metalmaster into a Krankensteing, GOD!
#17
Quote by seek_&_destroy
wait how are they attached to the body? are they glued or screwed in? or just in there?


By the looks of the photo, it's screwed in.
#19
Quote by JagStang5246
sweet. squier copied an sg. what year did you get that?


Yeah, I have not seen that before. I knew Epiphone had made some strats...but...
#20
Quote by JagStang5246
sweet. squier copied an sg. what year did you get that?


umm like three years ago? maybe four...

i had no idea what i was doing, but now that i do i'm surprised it was a fairly good starter guitar

EDIT btw i can't do any work on the guitar during the weekdays.. weekends only, and for the rest of today i have to do hw
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#21
Quote by AdamDK
By the looks of the photo, it's screwed in.


No.

Its pressed into the wood.

They drill a hole, then press the thing into the wood. Its a ferrule or soemthing, like on string through bodies.
Quote by red star
"If its good enough for gay cowboys, its god enough for you."

Quote by Dyaxe666
you guys are all idiots! SRV played a schecter C1 Blackjack thrugh a metalmaster into a Krankensteing, GOD!
#22
alright, update:

i hit wood at long last, but i realize now i don't need to sand completely to wood, as long as the paint adheres, therefore the polish jsut has to be scratched up enough.

So i believe the body is made of agathis

well i still want to upgrade it.

I'm gonna get pics in a sec then finish the sanding (dreading the insides of the horns)
Couple of q's about the painting part

what is the final grit of the body before i even open the spray can? i heard 400 is the standard

what do i do between coats? do i wet sand? do i sand? what grits???

i know what to do after i put on my last coat of clear though... i found a tut for that, but it's the painting part that's stressing me out.

that's all for now, pics in a minute
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#23
The Squier 'SG' isnt real Squier, that isn't to say it's bad, but they're Chinese Squier copies. They were on ebay a while back, and I've seen them in China in the 'dodgy' shops.
I will never travel brandishing a sharp tongue, out of fear of piercing my own heart...
#24
Quote by seek_&_destroy
t

what is the final grit of the body before i even open the spray can? i heard 400 is the standard

what do i do between coats? do i wet sand? do i sand? what grits???



220.

If there is any runs or orange peel sand flat with 400 grit. If there are no problems don't sand.
#25
Quote by dave293
220.

If there is any runs or orange peel sand flat with 400 grit. If there are no problems don't sand.


cool thanx man

i know what it is, but what causes orange peel? is it carelessness on the paitner's part, or is it a random event?

EDIT oh and to the guy above, i'm pretty sure it's a real squier, cuz i got them from "The Guitar Shop" on Lakeshore... that's well known around my area

and plus he had a ****load of them... so i don't know

w/e though, it's better then some $500 squier strats i tried out
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Last edited by seek_&_destroy at Nov 3, 2006,
#26
squier strats for $500?!?
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#27
Quote by lookie here
squier strats for $500?!?



i guess... i didn't ask the price, only the tags, and they may have been fenders, it was a while ago...
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#28
Quote by seek_&_destroy

i know what it is, but what causes orange peel? is it carelessness on the paitner's part, or is it a random event?


It can be caused by a number of things like spray distance/speed, envirnomental conditions, high viscosity(thickness) of material being sprayed. When spraying with cans it's hard to avoid, it not that big deal anyway, just more sanding.
#29
oic, dave

k two things

1) Is pure white primer availible?

2) do i sand immediately when i see orange peel, or do i wait till all my coats are done?
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#30
Sorry to bump, but in addition, is it okay to paint outside in the next week? the air is extremely dry, between 5 - 10 degrees Celsius (just above freezing for you yankees )

by outside i mean in my garage with the garage door open
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#31
5-10 isn't just above freezing, fool. 5 maybe, but 10 isn't that cold.

EDIT: has it snowed yet? what's the humidity?
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#32
Well, I think he meant the freezing point on the Celsius scale...Ya know, 0 degrees....(32 degrees in Fahrenheit) Not necessarily literally freezing.
#33
Quote by forsaknazrael
Well, I think he meant the freezing point on the Celsius scale...not necessarily literally freezing.


I know celsius quite well, I've grown up with it. But 5 is cold, but I wouldn't say it's close to freezing.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#34
Right, I understand that. But 0 is considered the freezing point on the scale. So he was trying to find a common point for us "yanks" to reference it by. That being 32 degrees - "our" freezing point.
#35
k stop arguing, i apoligize, it's close enough to just above freezing for me, point is it's not very hot, its quite chilly, and yes we had flurries once, but that was three days ago, and it was very light

EDIT another q, my they're racking up...

do i have to use a primer? can i just knock on some white paint? (i didn't sand all the paint of the body, just scracthed the polish up)

cuz here's what i planned:

I plan to use duplicolor mirage products, the ice one specifically
Unfortunately i thought that it was white with rainbow highlights, and that's what i wanted, but it's really silver, so i thought if i changed the included black base coat with a white primer, it would work out, i don't know if it will, but in theory it should.

so i wonder if the second layer in the mirage stuff would adhere to paint instead of the primer
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Last edited by seek_&_destroy at Nov 4, 2006,
#36
http://www.theweathernetwork.ca/weather/index.htm go here and enter your city, then tell us what the humidty is. I don't know what the proper humidtiy will be, but someone will come along and tell you one way or another.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#37
48% humidity, and i edited above post if nobody noticed... someone answer me

lol j/k thanx alot to the ppl who have been helpful so far
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#38
I would sand it all the way to the wood, that way you can see what kind of wood you have (teehee). Then we can tell you what to do.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#39
If you're not too concerned about making the wood breath by using the thinnest layers of paint, you don't have to sand all the way to wood ... just make sure you sand off the clearcoat. If you prefer to sand all the way to wood, no harm, no foul, just more exercise for your hands, etc.

Even if the wood is Agathis, as already pointed out by some pro luthiers, it has this bad rep because a lot of sloppy manufacturers use this plentiful and cheap material. As long as you can make the components fit properlyand you have a decent amp, you should be in good shape.

Primers are available in White, Light Gray, and Dark Gray. I'd use primer instead of a White colorcoat, just so to ensure better adhesion, maybe. I haven't tried the Mirage line so I'm curious to see your results. I've used a combo of Duplicolor's Dark Blue, then a very light coat of Dark Red to approximate the Midnight Wine Strat I saw at GC.

Good Luck!

#40
gah duplicolour is f ing expensive

i have to use normal white paint, cuz i couldn't find the white primer, it should work fine, we'll see. Besides worse comes to worse i'll just sand it down and leave it white.

i'll be sure to post pics after painting, i'll probably reasseble using the parts i have that came with the guitar, but i plan to replace it with gold hardware depending on how bad/good it looks
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