Page 4 of 185
#121
Quote by That_Pink_Queen
^It says right on the picture man...just look at all the stuff on there! Heh, you could even print out the picture and just show it to them.

NOW, for all you Zakk fans, heres the only difference between the Original Crybaby, and the Zakk signature:

c1-.01uF
c8-.22uF

Fasel inductor
metal film resistors
film caps

PCB shot:
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g281/jimbob_09/DSC00560.jpg
Look, it even uses the GCB-95 circuit board

Hope this is still interesting to you guys...

Okay I already prefprmed most off the mods on the Stinkfoot page and the Zakk Wylde wah sounds good( fan of Zakk) And for the 0.22 uf capacitor, I have this...
http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Capacitors&product=2729043
But my wah pedal has this...
http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Capacitors&product=2729011

Does it matter which one you use?
Quote by rabidguitarist
I even tried dressing up as a fly myself, and throwing myself out of the window in the hope that they will follow me. But to no avail.

Quote by daytripper75
we have a Llama forum, and still no drum forum.
#122
It depends on the value. Typically values 1uF and up will be electrolytic, and the other ones will be film caps.

And btw, those prices are VERY high. You shouldn't be paying more than 30 cents for each capacitor max.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#123
Quote by That_Pink_Queen
It depends on the value. Typically values 1uF and up will be electrolytic, and the other ones will be film caps.

And btw, those prices are VERY high. You shouldn't be paying more than 30 cents for each capacitor max.

yeah its my only resource until i get my own credit card...
And I still understand it very much
EDIT_Oh and thanks for the Zakk PCB shot!
Quote by rabidguitarist
I even tried dressing up as a fly myself, and throwing myself out of the window in the hope that they will follow me. But to no avail.

Quote by daytripper75
we have a Llama forum, and still no drum forum.
#124
Hey Pink_Queen, I've been practicing soldering and de-soldering but I have a question for you.

I've read on a lot of sites that you're supposed to clean the surface after de-soldering with 000 steel wool or sand paper. Should the surface after being sanded still look silver/gray or should it bee back to copper?
Hai UG!
Last edited by L_Z_Nut at Aug 23, 2006,
#125
Quote by L_Z_Nut
I've read on a lot of sites that you're supposed to clean the surface after de-soldering with 000 steel wool or sand paper. Should the surface after being sanded still look silver/gray or should it bee back to copper?

That's unnecessary, the solder has flux in it which will clean the parts prior to joining.

The only reason you'd need sand paper/steel wool is if the parts you are using are rusty or corroded.

For sale: Early 1985 Ibanez AH10 (Allan Holdsworth signature model) PM for details
#126
Cool... thanks alot.

BTW what type of solder is best for this stuff. I bought some 63/37 rosin core solder but the rosin seems leave some brownish stains around the edges of the joint. So it's a little difficult to know if the joint is soldered nice and clean. Should I get some regualr solder or is this just as good?
Hai UG!
#127
I use 60/40 and its working fine ahvent tried 63/37. Read you have to use 60/40
Quote by rabidguitarist
I even tried dressing up as a fly myself, and throwing myself out of the window in the hope that they will follow me. But to no avail.

Quote by daytripper75
we have a Llama forum, and still no drum forum.
#128
If you're burning up the flux, it pretty much means that you're heating up the part too much. The flux shouldn't be brown, it should be clear. It often flows around the joint, that's fine, no problem. Try to heat up the parts faster. It takes quite a bit of practice to learn exactly how much heat is needed, and how to get that heat. I used to have a terrible time with stuff like that. By now though, it all comes naturally.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#129
Flux = rosin?

Is burning the flux really bad? I'm assuming it is and doesn't give it a true seal or something.

I have one of those adjustable 15watt - 30watt soldering irons and I keep it on 30 watts because I find the 15 watt setting is too slow at melting the solder. I guess I have to work on my speed.

I'll try and get some pictures of before and after stuff.

EDIT: BTW do you use a damp sponge to clean the tip after every joint?

EDIT#2: Do you think moving to a 60/40 solder would reduce the risk of burning the flux or will it be worse?
Hai UG!
Last edited by L_Z_Nut at Aug 24, 2006,
#130
I was doing a little searchin around about flux and rosin, and rosin is different from flux.

Here's a quote from dictionary.com: "A translucent yellowish to dark brown resin derived from the stumps or sap of various pine trees and used to increase sliding friction, as on the bows of certain stringed instruments, and to manufacture a wide variety of products including varnishes, inks, linoleum, adhesives, and soldering compounds."

So since I'm using rosin core solder, and think the brownish stains left over are normal... I'm not 100% sure about it though. I tried really hard not get any brownish stains but even my best joint (which was a perfect triangle/volcano shape) had a tiny sliver of a brown streak down one side... looked like someone took an extremely fine tipped brown pen and made a line.

BTW how much pressure do you typically put on the pad/joint when you're soldering and desoldering?
Hai UG!
#131
hey erm so how do i get my gcb-95 to be really wah-ry? lol weird term i know but you get wat i mean, thanks tobz
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Fender USA Strat
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Fender Silverface Twin

EHX Big Muff
Digitech badmonkey overdrive
Boss DS-1
Blackstar Distortion X
Dunlop Crybaby
Ibanez Delay
Digitech Whammy
#133
Well, in my experience if you do a good joint, it will leave a bit of clear stuff around it. If you hold it too long, it turn a bit brown. It's no big deal, but remember, the optimal temperature is just enough to set the solder. At the temperature the rosin doesn't usually brown for me...

It's no big deal though. Just finicky details.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#134
tobythechimp - I'd just try some of the mods mentioned in the thread and see how they go. But for a really easy way to mess with the sound got to stinkfoot at the very bottom and read the "Easy" range adjustment mod.


My joints are almost always a very nice volcano/triangle shape with a little bit of brown around the edges, and sometimes very little transparent brown/amber.

I do notice a lot of browning if I keep it there too long though... I tested how long it takes to get brown (on practice boards of course ) so I'll know how long to keep it there to get less browning. The trick is speed. Heat the joint fast, solder fast, and take away the solder and heat fast. Spend as little time with the iron on the joint as possible. The faster I do it the less browning I get, but there's always a little. I heard that's normal though, I mean rosin is naturally a brown/amber colour.

BTW Pink_Queen what size solder do you use for this type of stuff?
Hai UG!
Last edited by L_Z_Nut at Aug 28, 2006,
#135
Sweeeeeettttt... I just finished modding my wah today, took me about 2hrs.

The sound difference with the true-bypasss and all the mods on stinkfoot make it sound soo much better. Very smooth transistions from bass, to mids, to treble, and the volume doesn't drop at all when switched on. After I adjusted to pot (was gettting a little too much bass) it made it even better. And on clean... my god it's soo creamy and smooth, I nearly creamed my pants.

The only thing I haven't done is the transistor mods from the pic on the 1st page, but I think I'll put those off for a bit, I'll probably do it when I get bored of the sound. I'll try and borrow my buddies mic to get some clips.

BTW, is it just me, or does it seems like dunlop goes out of their way, and creates more work for themselves, to make this things sound like shjt.

Thanks to everyone who helped answer my questions, much, much respect to you guys.
Hai UG!
#136
My used Crybaby's on it's way here, I'll play with it a while, then order parts.
Populus vult decipi. Decipiatur.

Quote by Mistress_Ibanez
It's can be a contraction and genitive case.

Quote by Mistress_Ibanez
If you cut down on these costs students won't learn so well, effecting the "quality"...
#137
I noticed a little sound problem I'm having.

When the wah's completely on the heel position, some notes have a great gain/feedback sound but others don't. If I move forward (toe) very very slightly (unnoticeable when looking at my foot) the notes that didn't feedback, begin to feedback. I noticed this when I was improvising around the 12th and 15th frets on the G, B, and high e strings. The G string at the 12th fret feedsback though, but not the 14th fret on the G string. Weird eh?

After I tested all the strings, it's pretty much scattered around like that, some feedback when completely heeled out, some only when slightly moved forward like the way I mentioned previoulsy. I checked all my connections and solder joints to see if anything changed or whatever but it all looks great.

I did the all the mods from the pic on the first page except I didn't change the transistors, or the .022uF (mine already has the .022uF), and instead of doing the volume/wah controlled by a 100k linear pot mod, I replaced the resistor next to the inductor with a 56k resistor.

Here's the pic for the lazy people.

I think it might be the pot because my friend is very ruff with his gear so it might be shot, or just dying out. My other theory is that it may get fixed with the transistor swap. But I don't have enough experience with this stuff to know if those would be the culprits.

What do you think is the cause of this?

EDIT: Oh yeah, BTW I don't have a heavy heel. I don't use a lot of force in the heel position... just enough to get it right.
Hai UG!
Last edited by L_Z_Nut at Sep 3, 2006,
#139
I saw a mod on Ebay for an SRV-type mod for a crybaby. Hold on and I will put a link on and yall can tell me if it is any good.

EDIT:

I can't find it, nevermind
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Quote by chookiecookie
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Quote by WCPhils
at least we can all agree SGstriker is the woooooooooooooooooooooorst
Last edited by SGstriker at Sep 27, 2006,
#140
Quote by L_Z_Nut
^ anybody

A way pretty much slips the resonant frequency around. So yes, some frequencies will resonate more.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#141
Any idea for any Mods to a Morley PWA?
Ive stripped it - no pics till I get my data cable for the mobile...

Any ideas how I could mod it from beign weak trebley and with a sudden change in the sweep??
#142
Find me a schem and I'll see what I can do.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#143
Yeah, I did some experimenting, swapping out some things and whatever, and trying other peoples suggestions, and it still didn't fix it.

Andreas Moeller, who did the stinkfoot wah mods page pretty much told me "it's the nature of the beast" a wah will do that no matter what.

I did find out that if I put my gain all the way up the sound difference isn't very noticable. But playing clean it is.... I'll be doing some transistor swaps when I get off my lazy ass and order some parts for a pedal I want to build.
Hai UG!
Last edited by L_Z_Nut at Sep 28, 2006,
#144
in pic oyu posted pink( of the modified wah), what are the values of the caps that are unchanged?

EDIT-and what kind of 100k pot do i need? Liner or audio etc...
Quote by rabidguitarist
I even tried dressing up as a fly myself, and throwing myself out of the window in the hope that they will follow me. But to no avail.

Quote by daytripper75
we have a Llama forum, and still no drum forum.
Last edited by lookie here at Oct 28, 2006,
#145
How do I hook this up to have an LED? I have an offboard with a 1k resistor and an LED, but I dont know what wires are the effect input, output, and in and out jacks.
Last edited by absinthe5765 at Oct 29, 2006,
#146
under adding a LED
Quote by rabidguitarist
I even tried dressing up as a fly myself, and throwing myself out of the window in the hope that they will follow me. But to no avail.

Quote by daytripper75
we have a Llama forum, and still no drum forum.
#147
Quote by lookie here
in pic oyu posted pink( of the modified wah), what are the values of the caps that are unchanged?

EDIT-and what kind of 100k pot do i need? Liner or audio etc...

Linear pot.

And I can't remember the values, go find a schematic. It also says on the capacitors in the wah.

And to the LED, that information is available all over. IMO it's a dumb idea as it just uses more batter and you'd have to be retarded to not know if it's on or not.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#148
okay thnaks pink
Quote by rabidguitarist
I even tried dressing up as a fly myself, and throwing myself out of the window in the hope that they will follow me. But to no avail.

Quote by daytripper75
we have a Llama forum, and still no drum forum.
#149
Sorry if this has been mentioned in this thread, I had a quick browse through but I couldnt see anything...

I want to mod my Crybaby (GCB-95) based on what you explained but my PCB layout isnt anything like the pictures I found on here (or on the links). The input/ouput jacks arent on the circuit board, but are connected by wires. The pcb design looks alot simpler, and the inductor has plastic gel all around it so it cant be replaced easily.

Does anyone have one of these revisions and could tell me which resistors etc are which? I'm a little lost!
Ibanez S470 (Condor/Pyro/Warthog)
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Morley Bad Horsie 2
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#150
pic?
Quote by rabidguitarist
I even tried dressing up as a fly myself, and throwing myself out of the window in the hope that they will follow me. But to no avail.

Quote by daytripper75
we have a Llama forum, and still no drum forum.
#151
Actually after a bit of research it appears to be a Rev D type board, and I have found a diagram pointing out the resistors.

Bit odd though, I bought it off eBay and it was brand new condition, yet it appears to be really old!
Ibanez S470 (Condor/Pyro/Warthog)
Rockafeller Custom
Laney Lionheart L20H
Framus FR212CB
Morley Bad Horsie 2
Boss DS-1 (Monte Allum Mod)
Boss DD-6
Electro-Harmonix Small Clone
Dunlop/MXR Phase 90 (Full Script mod)
Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2+
#153
scroll down a liitle and youll find it
EDIT-opps i forgot the link one sec

http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/dunlop.htm
Quote by rabidguitarist
I even tried dressing up as a fly myself, and throwing myself out of the window in the hope that they will follow me. But to no avail.

Quote by daytripper75
we have a Llama forum, and still no drum forum.
#155
oh youll have to preform the other mods to acomidate(sp?) the LED. Or try googling it
Godd luck
Quote by rabidguitarist
I even tried dressing up as a fly myself, and throwing myself out of the window in the hope that they will follow me. But to no avail.

Quote by daytripper75
we have a Llama forum, and still no drum forum.
#157
Quote by absinthe5765
Its not very clear on the other parts of the switch. Where do I get the "effect input and ground respectivly" from?

Effect input---uh...the effect input...the input jack.

And the ground is the ground...hook that up to the input jack ground...
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#159
Quote by That_Pink_Queen
Effect input---uh...the effect input...the input jack.

And the ground is the ground...hook that up to the input jack ground...

Yes, but the jacks are right on the board, theres no wire to just snip. Thats why I was thinking I would scratch off some of it the line coming off the jack and drill two holes, then solder the wires into it.