what exactly do i need to put a lfr in my squire strat.

My Gear:
Peavey Triple XXX
yea i got a LFR and all the hardware, springs, post, nut:etc. could i use a dremel. if so how long would it take.
My Gear:
Peavey Triple XXX
^ um... probably not that much longer- id say an hour to do the routing for it, but idk how clean it will look- youve got to have some skills with it to make it level n shit

but ive done it- and its not that bad

also- for the posts id use a drill press- to make shure there straight

I am guessing that you are not too fond of your squire, otherwise you would not be using it as a ginea pig.

You need a router, templates (don't even think about trying to freehand it), the floyd (single locking or double locking? single is easier), and a drill press (a hand held drill is NOT advised).

Go to stew mac and get the templates, it will save you allot of headaches.

The hardest part is installing the locking nut, as you will have to route out a nut shelf. Again stewie has atemplate for it. With a strat, you may need to get a second lock nut as the one that comes with most Licensed Floyds is just to big to fit on the shelf (they are about 1.5 cm long). measure from the nut back on your guitar and see if you have space for a standard locking nut, if not you will have to raise the deck on the headstock behind the nut to bring it up to level.

Good luck, and remember there are at least three different floyds, single locking, double locking and double locking flush mount - they all have different routes and/or stud mount locations.
^ hes probably got a double locking trem- and he doesnt need to have a lockin nut- id suggest locking tuners instead- less of a hassle.

and doin it freehand with a dremel isnt that hard- you just have to have some control.

i inlaid a guitar* just for fun* with a flame patern- free hand- and it turned out pretty sweet

ive also routed out a pup cavity on a tele free hand- with no problem.

so really- i dont think its gonna be a large problem
Not a big problem if it is not your main guitar. If it is your one and only, you might end up with a guitar that is useless. I can handle a dremell freehand, but there is no way I can make a straight line with a router without a guide. Maybe the 70's have something to do with that...

I've tried locking tuners on some of my prototypes, they are not the same as a locking nut. It does not resolve the issue of strings binding when they move through the nut, so in order to make them work, you either have to install a graphite nut, or a roller nut. Switching out to graphite is not too hard, but you have to know how to file the nut properly, and a roller nut means that you have to make a nut shelf again. A roller nut also has to be moved forward towards the first fret as the breakpoint at the roller is on the top of the nut, not at the furthest forward point.

I made a start with a floater and a roller nut with locking tuners and it works O.K., as long as you are not too heavy handed on the bar, so it works well for ocasional use. If your bag of tricks relies heavily on a wammy bar, a locking nut is the only way to go.

I also have made a personal guitar that has a floater and no locking mechinism at the head end at all, (just a bone nut) and it works great for me, although 90% of the time I play the bar is still in the case. The tone is way better than the locking nut, but still not as good as a hard-tail.

My favorite strat mod is to fill the trem cavity, and make it a hard-tail with a nice chunky bridge and the strings going through the body, but I'm a hard-tail kind of guy. The tone is better, tunning stability is better, you break way less stings and when you do you can change 'em in seconds.

I'm new here, so I hope I'm not hi-jacking you're thread.