#1
Ok, so I’ve read a lot of Guitar modding threads. And everyone seems to be sanding down their guitars rather than using paint stripper. I was Just wondering why that was since paint stripper is a lot less work.

Also this is for my own project (surprise surprise) and I was wondering if this wiring was possible.

3 Humbuckers.

<advanced>A DPDT switch for each of them, on/off/on. Position 1 is coil tap (only using one coil) 2 is off and 3 is both coils. </advanced>
AND <simple>a 5 position pickup selector</simple>
With an ON/ON switch to differentiate between the two 'systems'.
Could someone do me a schematic (Sp?) for that?

Also on my last mod with this body I messed up the neck pocket and I basically need to re-rout it. but I need to put material back where it was before rather than taking it away. any ideas? I was thinking sand the edges flat; make a block of wood that fits neat, Glue, clamp and leave. Then re-rout out of that?

My school has a CAD/CAM routing machine so complexity isn’t really an issue.

Thanks in advance, Joe
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#2
hmm the only thing I can really kinda answer is the paint stripper question. my guess would be that it might soak down and mess up the wood or something else because its pretty acidic. I sanded down my squier and it was such a pain, so if i were to do it again i would probably use a little paint stripper on the outer coat of (poly?) because it was rediculous how much time it took. you're probably gonna want another opinon on this, but im just giving you my view on this.


EDIT: on second thought..paint stripper is pretty nasty..i dont think i would want to mess with it
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Last edited by LEGZ at Jan 10, 2007,
#3
Definately do not use paint stripper on your guitar. If you want to, you can use a palm sander to get the layers of laquer off, but then you need to sand the rest off with fine grit sandpaper.
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#4
In my opinion/experience the best way to strip a guitar is a heatgun and cabinet scraper (also the preferred method of Jonathan at Feline Guitars I think). It just melts the paint then you scrape it right off with the scraper.
#5
yeah i used a palm sander on mine...still didnt work too well. but i like the method with the heat gun and whatnot that sounds like it would work pretty well.
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#6
I used paint stripper when I stripped my guitar.

It melted the bindings and made a hole in the sanding sealer as well, which meant I needed to sand through that, then grain filler and re-seal. Right pain in the arse.

And it stained all the cavities red (I was stripping red paint)
#7
well... of course the stipper would eat away all the plastic part- its MADE TO!!!!

i use stripper- it worked fine, but i was staining the guitar- so i need it to go deep down.


but ive also done the palm sander things- alot of work- but not THAT hard... a couple of hours to do it right
#8
Yeah, I only realised after the event (and when I actually read the instructions!)

Felt like a right idiot
#9
Quote by northy
A DPDT switch for each of them, on/off/on. Position 1 is coil tap (only using one coil) 2 is off and 3 is both coils.
Easy, even a SPDT on/off/on will do for that. Just tell me which brand of humbucker. Which coil you'd like to be active when split (adjustable pole piece coil or the non adjustable coil, depending on the model of pickup, ofcourse). Tones/volumes?
I can then draw it for you.

Hold up.. you want advanced and simple together? Or just one of them? Both, with a switch to select between the two (what it looks like to me) would be super difficult. But i could always try.
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Last edited by JimPlaysGuitar at Jan 11, 2007,
#10
Quote by JimPlaysGuitar
Hold up.. you want advanced and simple together? Or just one of them? Both, with a switch to select between the two (what it looks like to me) would be super difficult. But i could always try.

Yeah thats what i meant, both, with a switch between the two, It would be veyr much appreciatd. Also i dont know what pups im using yet so i cant help with that one. I'm using dual concentric for volume and tone. I.e a volume and tone for each one.
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#11
Heh, I can't do it. It's just impossible to separate 3 toggles and a 5 way with just one toggle.
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#12
I sanded down most of the front today, just need to do the top horn ( the rest will either be routed out anyway or covered by the pick guard.
I guess this is turning into a custom journal..



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#13
Ok, i might change the wiring plans to : 2 humbuckers, 5 way switch with; position 1, neck one coil. position 2, Neck both coils. Position 3 (middle), both buckers. Poisition 4, bridge both coils and position 5 bridge single.

Any ideas?

I also still need ideas for the routing...
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#14
rawr! people! start taking your pictures outside! it doesn't show crap when you take them underlight bulbs. Especially when they are practically burned out like those last pictures and they color everything a tint of yellow!


Btw peopel do use strippers, just only certain strippers work for poly. And since its meant to basically melt the finish it will stain into the wood if you let it sit too long. And I dont' like burning, becuase it leaves burn marks on the wood and it doens't look that amazing with stain jobs. Sanding is just the cheapest and most simple procedure to use.
#15
Quote by northy
Ok, i might change the wiring plans to : 2 humbuckers, 5 way switch with; position 1, neck one coil. position 2, Neck both coils. Position 3 (middle), both buckers. Poisition 4, bridge both coils and position 5 bridge single.
That's possible if you get a 5 way "superswitch".
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#17
i will do...
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#18
Quote by forsaknazrael
I'd sand out the cavities, as well. Helps out the guitar, tonally. Lets the wood breathe.


Sorry, I don't believe that at all. Do you have anything anywhere to back that up? Alot of guitars have the cavities painted, i don't believe letting the the wood "breathe" is going to make any (noticeable) difference.
#20
i've also heard that its a good idea, and just using thinner paint is supposed to help tone, thats why nitro is so prized, it givesa thinner finish and lets the wood "breathe" and physics can agrre with that, i suppose the elastic properties of the poly finish would damp the resonance of the wood, leading to reduced sustain and thinner tone


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#21
Quote by forsaknazrael
Eric Johnson does it, and I read the tip off singlecoil.com.

That's why when you refinish your guitar, they say to put sponges or something in the cavitites - to prevent too much finish from getting in there. Some finish isn't bad...but often times guitars have a really thick finish in there.


I just read the article on singlecoil and half of the tips there just sound like tone "voodoo" They won't do any harm but i can't see it making a noticable difference.


Quote by liquidstate
i've also heard that its a good idea, and just using thinner paint is supposed to help tone, thats why nitro is so prized, it givesa thinner finish and lets the wood "breathe" and physics can agrre with that, i suppose the elastic properties of the poly finish would damp the resonance of the wood, leading to reduced sustain and thinner tone


Type of finish and thickness of finish effect tone, no doubt. I just don't think whether there is finish in the cavities or not is going to make a noticable difference.
#23
So does mine. But this isn't going to be my primary guitar, well i dont think so anyway.
I got som paint stripper tody, hopefull I'll have the sides done before i go to chester at 2.
I'll take pics.
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#24
The paint stripper didnt work.. =[
but i'm still gonna sand it down.
I might finish it one day.
But now i Just bought a 'Swift' Les paul copy of ebay. I'm gonna replace the pup's and stuff as and when i can afford to.
Anyone know anything about them?
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