#1
This would be my first pedal build, and I'm using the schematic from Fuzz Central for the Dallas Arbiter. Using a PCB, cause that just seems a bit neater than perf. I've etched before, so that isn't a problem.
Now, I used ferrium oxide. That worked pretty well.
They have Sodium Persulfate in the PCB section, in a powder form. Is that easier to work with and reuse, as compared to ferric chloride?

http://www.fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com
http://www.fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/fuzzface/fuzzfacepartslist.txt
Pretty neat.
Germanium trannies, adjustable trimpot to compensate for temperature changes.


Couple of questions:
On their parts list, they say to use 5% carbon film resistors rated for 1/2 watt.
Now, I'm ordering from Small Bear, which only carries 1/4 watt resistors.
Also, General Guitar Gadgets lists 1/4 watt resistors for their fuzz face build...

1- So I was wondering, is just using 1/4 watt resistors a-okay? Just makes things easier cause I plan to order everything from Small Bear anyway.

2 - The parts list called for a '0.01µF metallized polyester film' capacitor. Do I want a high voltage poly film cap, a Mallory, or a low voltage poly film cap?

3 - Small Bear has a set of Germanium Trannies for a Fuzz Face - should I get these, or should I go to the supplier specified by Fuzz Central and get the AC128's? Does anyone know if the Small Bear ones have good gain values, or should I just get a bunch from another supplier and test the values myself?

And a question unrelated to this pedal...What are the smallest capacitors (physical size) on Small Bear?
#2
I just finished building, and tweaking a germ FF yesterday (the boutique GGG version). Got a matched set of germs from SB.... sounds great BTW, smooth, creamy, wicked bass, and nice harmonics with the gain real high.... just outstanding

1- I used 1/4w 1% metal film resistors, and she works just fine. I believe the 1% resistors reduce hum as well, but I'm not 100% certain on that.

2- As long as they're over 9v you should be gold, the low voltage caps will work fine... remember though, with caps the higher the volts the bigger the component. Maybe someone else can comment on which type would be best.

3- The germs from SB are great, and really well matched.... but I think they're out of stock for the FF matched sets right now... I could be wrong. You could buy a bunch in bulk, but be carefull, some poeple sell fakes.

4- Lower the volts, smaller the component.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong please. Hope that helps.
Hai UG!
Last edited by L_Z_Nut at Jan 24, 2007,
#3
1- They'll work fine.

2 - Low voltage films. Mallorys here aren't needed.

3 - Go for Smallbear's. Also www.muzique.com has them. I've used both AC128s and SB's and they're the same.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#4
Excellent. Thanks for the help, guys.
Last thing, Small Bear doesn't really label their stuff. So it's a bit hard sorting out the components.
Resistors aren't a problem, I can measure those fine.
However, I'm ordering a bunch of different sizes of caps for a different project, and sorting them out will be really annoying. I've ordered electrolytic radial caps, and they were marked, and I've ordered Orange drops...but only of one kind, so it was a no brainer to figure them out. What was labeled on the cap wasn't really obviously indicitive of the size (Had the voltage...). How can I measure the microfarads of each one? These would be the low voltage poly film ones.
#6
There should be some numbers or "codes" on the caps... like 101, 151, 103 something like that... find the numbers and use these links to find out which they are.... don't forget to double, or even triple check to make sure they're right.

http://members.aol.com/shephed/caps.htm
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/caps.htm

If you googgle capacitor chart or something like that you'll find some good things.

EDIT:Just in case you need this as well:

resistor chart

this one has 4, 5, and 6 band options

http://www.marvin3m.com/resist/index.htm

http://www.lalena.com/Audio/Electronics/Color/
Hai UG!
Last edited by L_Z_Nut at Jan 25, 2007,
#8
Okay, I've been researching this little topic, but I haven't really been able to wrap my head around it. Maybe because it's pretty late where I am now, and I just need sleep.
I don't know.
Anyway, would anyone care to explain the deal with PNP pedals is? I'm hoping to power all my pedals with one power supply, and don't feel like having to run a seperate one just for this fuzz.
The power supply I have now has this symbol on it:

So this one has a negative tip...Positive sleeve. Right?
And this one works with BOSS-type pedals. So the negative goes to ground. So...the tip goes to ground...?

I'm thinking of doing the 60's Boutique Fuzz at GGG, because of all this confusion, (plus there's more knobs to play with on that version) and just do the PNP with a negative ground, to ensure compatibility with other pedals.
But Fuzz Central says that doing this can potentially cause problems.
Thoughts on that?
I mean I could just run my fuzz off just batteries...but....I'd rather not do that. :p Plus, I want to use an LED, so that would have an extra current draw on the battery.

Also, Pink, if you stumble across this topic again...your boost pedal accepts normal BOSS type adaptors, right? I've just been using the battery for the past few days.
Last edited by forsaknazrael at Jan 28, 2007,
#9
Az you'll have to let me know how this turns out man, if it turns out good, hell ill get you to build me one..

Is building a pedal hard? Iv always wanted to try it.. Id love to make a good Phaser pedal.. I wonder how you would make one of those.. Anyway, sry to go off topic.. Yeah bro let me know how that pedal turns out.
#10
Well, I mean, schematics are all over the place - just gotta look around.
I just want to get all this electrical know-how down right the first time...So I actually know what I'm doing, and not just soldering everything together like in the blueprint. Once I get this thing workin' and get well, you know my deal with recordin shit, haha....Yeah, I'll let you know.
#11
Ah, screw it. I'm just gonna do it with a positive ground.
I'll run it off a battery for a while, but I'm just gonna buy a different power supply.
There were some issues I read about running it in a negative ground conversion, and so I was concerned about that. I figured that just running it off a different power supply won't be too bad....
Any thoughts on that? Also, I'd still like this whole PNP issue cleared up, if anyone can explain that to me.

EDIT: Been doing some research, I'm gonna use sockets at first, so I can test the 'stock' values for some components, and then change out some stuff according to reported mods Roger Mayer did to Jimi's fuzz.
Also looking to do a couple of these modifications...

The 50K pot used a series resistor in the input...and a 1K pot in series with the 470 ohm resistor.
Last edited by forsaknazrael at Jan 28, 2007,
#13
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/box_pop.htm
Box popping.
And yep, mine use the standard boss setup.

For a PNP Fuzz Face, you typically wanna use a positive ground or else they can freak out and start oscillating or something. I have no idea why/how it happens, and so far nobody else does either from what I've seen.
You simply need a new power supply. If you have a positive ground on one pedal, and a negative ground on another, the positive and negative on the power supply will short together, which won't work of course.

Oh, and sodium persulfate isn't reusable. You gotta mix up a batch, and do a bunch of boards at once, as it isn't stable and it becomes useless.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#14
Ya...Just gonna go with a new power supply. That oscillation problem doesn't seem worth the hassle.
so...wait...I can plug both of the adaptors into the same outlet, right?

That's a shame about the sodium persulfate....Oh well. At least there's a lot of it.
Last edited by forsaknazrael at Feb 12, 2007,
#15
Quote by That_Pink_Queen
Oh, and sodium persulfate isn't reusable. You gotta mix up a batch, and do a bunch of boards at once, as it isn't stable and it becomes useless.

I do believe sodium persulfate can be stored and reused.

Plus, sodium persulfate is clear (so you can monitor the etching process more easily) and, unlike ferric chloride, doesn't smell.