#1
Hey guys, I've been having A LOT of trouble with my Ibanez (RG 320FM) over the past few years. I would appreciate any help!

Problem 1:
I purchased the guitar approximately 3 years ago, and it was in perfect condition. After a while I started to get an enormous amount of fret buzz on the 12 fret on the high E string and especially on the 12th fret on the B string. I figured it was my technique so I ignored it. Over the months the buzzing has gotten a lot worse so I took it in to two different technicians and neither resolved my problem. After pissing away approximately $180 in "repairs" I decided to learn how to do it myself. On the Ibanez website it states that the string height should be 1.5mm on the treble side and 2.0mm on the bass side. The string height should be 0.3-0.5mm on the 8th fret, while the 1st fret and the fret where the body starts are being pressed down. I have accomplished both of these on my guitar, but the buzzing still occurs. Although the problem goes away once I lift the strings up, it becomes very uncomfortable and difficult to play. Also, I have adjusted the neck tension according to the what the website indicates. Could the fret buzz be due to faulty frets installed in the factory, or is it something else that I am not aware of?

Problem 2:
When I received my guitar from the technician, I started to have issues with the tremolo. He set it up so that it can no longer be pulled back at all, but only down. The only issue is that every time I do a dive or so much as do a vibrato with the tremolo bar, all the strings either become a half a step higher or a half a step lower. I believe he put in a new set of springs, I'm not really sure (but it's been over a year, and if it were the springs they would have gotten worn in by now). What is causing this and how can I fix it?

Problem 3:
When I turn my tone knob in either direction, it produces a large amount of crackling. This also happens with my pickup switch. Do you have any resolutions for this problem?

Problem 4:
Recently (about a month ago) the signal started getting cut off from my guitar. At first I figured it was the jack but then when I shook my pickup switch a little bit I got the signal back. I'm guessing this (along with problems 3 and 5) are due to wiring. Does anyone have any idea about how to find where the bad wiring is?

Problem 5:
The tone knob also has another fault. I have noticed that it serves like an on/off switch for tone, rather than a control, meaning I cannot control the amount of tone in my sound, but only turn it on or off.

Problem 6:
Another issue that arose very early on is that most of the metal components, except the tuning keys, have begun to get a very thin coat of rust on them. When I asked the dealer who sold it to me about how to fix it he told me to mix some vinegar and water and then clean the parts with it, but I have a feeling that the vinegar will eat away at the finish of the body.

I'm sorry to pose so many questions, but I have tried everything and looked everywhere with no luck whatsoever. I'm planning on completely taking apart my guitar during the next few weeks to try to get rid of all these problems. I would greatly appreciate any advice you would give.

Thank you very much for your time and effort.
#4
Bridge
All the techs you sent are godamn idiots, you wasted tons of cash for nothing, sorry to say. RULE number 1 for floyd rose system, always PARALLEL the bridge to the body while remaining in tune/perfect pitch. Just read through this thoroughly:

Tuning Floyd Rose

1) Loosen the locking nut
2) Set your fine tuners to middle position
3) Tune up your guitar to standard or whichever tunings u wish. "Cross-tuning" between strings if you want easier. Tune the low E string> A string> low E string again> D string> low E string>A string... and so forth. Keep repeating for all strings. To make it more easier, tune the low E generally a bit sharper or about half step sharper, so that you might not have to repeat crossing the strings again and again.
4) If the floating bridge comes out, loosen the tunings and then tighten the springs in the tremolo cavity at the back, if the bridge sinks, then vice-versa, until the bridge is parallel to the body.
5) Be patient
6) If you're happy with your tunings and your bridge is well centered, lock in the nut
7) Tune again using the fine tuners

Also some tips - You might want to have at least 3 springs and after following the tuning method above, tighten the 2 claw's screw for about 1/8th or 1/4th more. This is to prevent your floating bridge from getting stuck to the knife edges on the posts (action studs) after you bend notes. You can ignore this if your bridge/trem is reliable (e.g. Edge Pro, Edge, ZR, Lo-Pro Edge, Original Floyd Rose, Licensed Floyd Rose by Kahler/Schaller/Gotoh). But still you may face this problem even if your bridge is very good.

Stretch the strings first if they're new

More info on tuning floyd roses - http://www.floydrose.com/originaltremolo.html
Info on changing strings - http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/columns/features/steal_this_video_re-stringing_guitar.html
Picture guide on how to perform the #4 step mentioned above - http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/floydrosetremolo.htm
http://www.jemsite.com/tech/1setup.htm#step1

Electronics
1st of all, open the jack plate and see that the 2 wires are connected to the hot and ground properly and not loose/twisted. Then open the electronics cavity, see that all the ground wires are connected to the back of the volume pot. If the tone pot still making crackling sound, then you probably need to change them (you could try air-blow it 1st).

Buzzing
Again, set your action to its default factory settings, 2mm above the low E string on the 12th fret and 1.5mm above the high e. Fret the 1st and the last fret of the low E string (or where the neck meets the body) and see the 8th fretwire. There should be a clearance of at least 0.3-0.5mm between the string and the fretboard itself. If its more than 0.5 or the string just lays dead, then you'd need to adjust your truss rod.

As for corrosion, do not use any substance at all, just rub/clean after play.

What gauge of string are you using now?
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Thats what she said...
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#5
I have to agree with the other two. Time for a new guitar.

I'd say if you had posted about this stuff earlier on, like as soon as these problems arose, you coulda saved it. But it's alot of work to do to bring this back from the dead.
#6
It would be cheaper to get a new gat, than to fix all those issues.
#7
problem one, you need a new guitar tech, this guys sounds like a hoser. The fret buzz could be anything, try perhaps rubbing a few different grades of steel wool on the fret, you may have a bur on the fret wire. The tone control cracking is a faulty solder point, that needs rewired. The on/ off situation means you need a larger capacitor connected to your tone knob. The signal cutting is probably you're hot lead from the switch to the jack, sounds like it needs re soldered to the switch. As far as the rust on the hardware, low to mid end Ibanez guitars are notorious for that. The vinager might work, but take the hardware off the guitar before attempting or try some good old wd 40, works on anything!
Out here you've gotta know where your towel is!
#8
Bullshit, it wont cost anything to do setups yourself, you gotta learn it eventually, why not start now.
"Play with your ears" - Yngwie Malmsteen, Paul Gilbert
Thats what she said...
UGmusic
#9
u shud use this guitar to learn how to fix it. in other words try adjusting the truss rod ure sefl, try fixing the wiring ureself. U gotta learn someday! so y not start on an already fu**ed up guitar. Meanwhile look at a new guitar!!
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#10
For all those people saying get a new guitar... why bother... i mean it still works it just needs some tlc by the looks of it... i picked up a guitar (home made job with ordered in parts if im not wrong) from the markets for $AU70 with a case that had a fender licenced floyd rose trem. It didnt have the studs for the nut, the wiring was shot and everything was generally in bad condition and poorly put together. We just rewired the pickup selector, used pieces of wood to raise the neck pickup, lowered the middle pickup and raised the bridge pickup. Made makeshift studs for the screws for the poles the floyd rose balance on and went out and bought the pieces for the nut.

Moral of the story being... we resurected a COMPLETE and i mean COMPLETE wreck that was being sold as a beginner guitar coz it was such a mess. Now its an essential part of my rig. You dont always need to buy a new guitar just coz you have a few problems. And madpickin is right, its probably a good idea to learn to set up a guitar, its not terribly hard at all and you wont have any idiot guitar tech doing things you dont want.

As for the trem not being able to pull back.. if you still have this problem. check if he's put a block of wood in the back stopping it.

fret buzz... ok this is probably not recomended but i think the idiot who mucked with my guitar i resurected actually sanded/filed the fret that was causing the problem down a little bit, i noticed this on a few frets. But befor you do that, check your nut, it may be too cut out and you might need to buy a new one.
#11
New guitar might be in order but before doing so go to harmony central. com and look up reviews on axes you might buy. You might be able to avoid alot of the problems you mentioned by doing research before hand.

On a technical side; you might be right about the frets and neck not being adjusted properly, either due to wear and tear or poor set up. This site http://www.frets.com/ can give you some basic info on what to look for in evaluating what might be wrong with you guitar. Good luck.
#12
Quote by madpickin03
Bridge
All the techs you sent are godamn idiots, you wasted tons of cash for nothing, sorry to say. RULE number 1 for floyd rose system, always PARALLEL the bridge to the body while remaining in tune/perfect pitch. Just read through this thoroughly:

Tuning Floyd Rose

1) Loosen the locking nut
2) Set your fine tuners to middle position
3) Tune up your guitar to standard or whichever tunings u wish. "Cross-tuning" between strings if you want easier. Tune the low E string> A string> low E string again> D string> low E string>A string... and so forth. Keep repeating for all strings. To make it more easier, tune the low E generally a bit sharper or about half step sharper, so that you might not have to repeat crossing the strings again and again.
4) If the floating bridge comes out, loosen the tunings and then tighten the springs in the tremolo cavity at the back, if the bridge sinks, then vice-versa, until the bridge is parallel to the body.
5) Be patient
6) If you're happy with your tunings and your bridge is well centered, lock in the nut
7) Tune again using the fine tuners

Also some tips - You might want to have at least 3 springs and after following the tuning method above, tighten the 2 claw's screw for about 1/8th or 1/4th more. This is to prevent your floating bridge from getting stuck to the knife edges on the posts (action studs) after you bend notes. You can ignore this if your bridge/trem is reliable (e.g. Edge Pro, Edge, ZR, Lo-Pro Edge, Original Floyd Rose, Licensed Floyd Rose by Kahler/Schaller/Gotoh). But still you may face this problem even if your bridge is very good.

Stretch the strings first if they're new

More info on tuning floyd roses - http://www.floydrose.com/originaltremolo.html
Info on changing strings - http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/columns/features/steal_this_video_re-stringing_guitar.html
Picture guide on how to perform the #4 step mentioned above - http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/floydrosetremolo.htm
http://www.jemsite.com/tech/1setup.htm#step1

Electronics
1st of all, open the jack plate and see that the 2 wires are connected to the hot and ground properly and not loose/twisted. Then open the electronics cavity, see that all the ground wires are connected to the back of the volume pot. If the tone pot still making crackling sound, then you probably need to change them (you could try air-blow it 1st).

Buzzing
Again, set your action to its default factory settings, 2mm above the low E string on the 12th fret and 1.5mm above the high e. Fret the 1st and the last fret of the low E string (or where the neck meets the body) and see the 8th fretwire. There should be a clearance of at least 0.3-0.5mm between the string and the fretboard itself. If its more than 0.5 or the string just lays dead, then you'd need to adjust your truss rod.

As for corrosion, do not use any substance at all, just rub/clean after play.

What gauge of string are you using now?


I dont belive the truss rod is the problem, I have adjusted it myself and it is exactly what the Ibanez website said it should be. After trying that I realized the fret buzz wasnt as bad so I went back and loosened it just a bit so it bowed more, so now its slightly over what is should be, but doing it any more would make the playing uncomfortable.
My bridge is already parallel with the body. There are 3 springs, set up parallel to each other.
I always stretch strings as soon as I put them in, and (if I'm not in a hurry) I re-adjust the bridge and neck if need be.
I thought it was the action as well that caused the buzz, so that was the first thing I tried adjusting. After trying many different variations I've concluded that the fret buzz only goes away if the strings are ridiculously high. Currently it is set up to what it should be according to the website.
I have tried many string gauges (and brands). I used Elixirs for a long time (.009 - .042 and .010 - .046). I am currently using D-Addario (.010 - .046). I have even considered going up to a higher gauge to prevent the buzz.
What are the chances that refretting the guitar will fix the buzz?
Thank you very much, that was a lot of help. I really really appreciate it.
#13
Quote by ValoRhoads
problem one, you need a new guitar tech, this guys sounds like a hoser. The fret buzz could be anything, try perhaps rubbing a few different grades of steel wool on the fret, you may have a bur on the fret wire. The tone control cracking is a faulty solder point, that needs rewired. The on/ off situation means you need a larger capacitor connected to your tone knob. The signal cutting is probably you're hot lead from the switch to the jack, sounds like it needs re soldered to the switch. As far as the rust on the hardware, low to mid end Ibanez guitars are notorious for that. The vinager might work, but take the hardware off the guitar before attempting or try some good old wd 40, works on anything!


ah, yes! the steel wool. I read about using 0000 on the frets to clean them but I'm afraid of wrecking the fretboard.
as for the capacitator, what do you suggest that I use? I'm not really sure what its at right now, so even letting me know how much i should go up by would be great.
thanks a lot!
#14
I doubt you'll need a full re-fret, but you'll likely need a fret dress - that's when they file all the frets to the same level...i've even had to get the frets dressed on new guitars sometimes.

Don't go to a higher string gauge, 10's is as high as you can go with a floyd unless you're downtuning.
Actually called Mark!

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#15
main problem: edge III sucks...
minor problem: its old (parts can be fixed easily)
solution: sell it
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#16
Quote by mothership
main problem: edge III sucks...
minor problem: its old (parts can be fixed easily)
solution: sell it


haha! thank you.
#17
I have fret buzz on my ibanez but thats only on one fret where it is damaged.

Anyways if you've never re done the electronics its time too. Thats a korean IBanez and well they just don't do electronics in Korea with any dignity.

Go to stewmac.com They do a great job with providing wiring kits for noobs. (no offense)
anyways yeah.
Also with korean guitars come shitty trems. Sorry bro.
#19
Quote by steven seagull
I doubt you'll need a full re-fret, but you'll likely need a fret dress - that's when they file all the frets to the same level...i've even had to get the frets dressed on new guitars sometimes.

Don't go to a higher string gauge, 10's is as high as you can go with a floyd unless you're downtuning.


Who told you that? i have 11s on mine and i regularly play in e standard and it plays a charm. But i do tune down form now and then hence the reason i got them,
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#20
it needs a fret level and re wire
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#21
Who told you that? i have 11s on mine and i regularly play in e standard and it plays a charm. But i do tune down form now and then hence the reason i got them,


With 11's you end up with too much tension, makes the bridge too stiff so you can't use the tremelo properly. It'll still dive and pull-up, but say goodbye to flutters and stuff like that, which kind of defeats the object of a floyd in my eyes.
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#23
Because the lower end models don't last? It's the same for all the big manufacturers, cheap stuff is cheap stuff no matter who makes it, seems daft to dismiss the whole range because of it.
Actually called Mark!

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#24
OK it's not the only reason I dislike Ibanez there are others

but I'd expect lower end models to last anyway
#25
but I'd expect lower end models to last anyway


You'll be asking for the moon on a stick next!

It would be nice I admit, but stuff isn't built to last these days...sign of the times.
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