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#1
So the time has come to start another project.


Specs:

Neck: Either warmoth style neck or a angled paddle which will be cut to correct design.

Body: Mahogany body with a top which hasn't be decided yet (opinions please?)

Bridge: Now this section i'm very undecided about. I'm not sure if I should add more work and make the body compatable for a TOM or wrap around bridge. ( opnions please?)

Pickups: Looking towards SDs.


Progression:

Here is a picture of the template that will be used.


EDIT:

New template



Any input and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Danny.


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Last edited by Lordoflax at Feb 15, 2007,
#2
I'm not digging the horns at all sorry.
"Everybody, one day will die and be forgotten. Act and behave in a way that will make life interesting and fun. Find a passion, form relationships, don't be afraid to get out there and fuck what everyone else thinks."
#3
Yeah I really dont like that sorry either man, just looks wierd IMO...
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#4
The horns need to be rounder, get rid of that lame flat part.
Will says:
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#5
Do some more work on the design, make the lines flow better. It just looks alittle "clunky"mnow.
#6
It bugs me that the ass-curve is that wide when the curve that follows is so much more narrow.
#7
Its kinda like a half assed les paul double cut away imo
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It's pretty hard to find someone as hardcore as Tom. The race for hardcore supremacy would be pretty close but i think Tom's got his nose just in front for now...
#8
the horns are ok but the body itself needs to be smoothed out more, way to blocky looking
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#9
This isn't the final design but the general idea. I will be editing it before I do any cutting.

I need to ask for a bit advice about the scale length and how to decide what scale the guitar would be. Is this all relative to the neck?

Also how do position the bridge according to the scale length


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#10
Quote by Lordoflax


I need to ask for a bit advice about the scale length and how to decide what scale the guitar would be. Is this all relative to the neck?

Also how do position the bridge according to the scale length


Sorry for double post


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#11
well i know the guitar scale has to do with intonation (dont quote me on this cuz im not 100% sure) like how bass necks are longer than a guitar or baritone guitar
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#12
Quote by Synyster Gates
well i know the guitar scale has to do with intonation (dont quote me on this cuz im not 100% sure) like how bass necks are longer than a guitar or baritone guitar



Yes, i'm aware of this. However, I'm unsure of how you set up a guitar according to the scale length?


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#13
You take the neck, measure from the 12th fret to the nut. Then measure from the 12th fret to te area where the bridge. You mark where the distance from the 12th fret to the nut is on the body. What you do after that depends on the bridge.
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#14
For simplicity, you can use a one-piece wraparound bridge like on a LP Junior.


You've got to offset the holes for the posts at a 2-3 degree angle to make intonation easier.
"Everybody, one day will die and be forgotten. Act and behave in a way that will make life interesting and fun. Find a passion, form relationships, don't be afraid to get out there and fuck what everyone else thinks."
#15
Quote by the_random_hero
For simplicity, you can use a one-piece wraparound bridge like on a LP Junior.


You've got to offset the holes for the posts at a 2-3 degree angle to make intonation easier.


I was under the impression this occured at the neck pocket.


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#16
When you angle the neck pocket that is more for string clearence, as I understand.

To intonate the guitar is when you adjust the saddles on the bridge to make the length of each string longer or shorter. You do this so that the string plays in tune on all frets. Just because a guitar is built for a certain scale lenth doesn't mean that all strings from nut to bridge should be the exact same length. That is why are adjustable saddles to help you intonate each string. Typically the lower strings need to be slightly longer, that is why you would angle the bridge a couple degrees so that the saddle for the lower strings are slightly farther from the nut than the higher strings. This just helps you to intonate and it keeps you from running in to the problem of not being able to move the saddle back far enough to properly intonate your lower strings
#17
The best example of this ^ is on an acoustic guitar. Have you ever noticed how the saddle is angled?

That picture is a great example of what we're talking about.


Here it is on a Les Paul.
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#18
Sorry for my misunderstanding as I thought the post that some1 posted was talking about angling the bridge in a different way. I almost forgot about angling the bridge.

But if I was to use at TOM or one-peice wrap around I would need to angle the neck pocket. Correct?

How Do I determine where the bridge should be placeD?


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Last edited by Lordoflax at Jan 31, 2007,
#19
Quote by Will_Minus
You take the neck, measure from the 12th fret to the nut. Then measure from the 12th fret to te area where the bridge. You mark where the distance from the 12th fret to the nut is on the body. What you do after that depends on the bridge.



If it's 12.75 from the nut to the 12th fret, put the bridge so the high E saddle would be at 12.75 inches from the 12th fret.
Will says:
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- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#20
^ Oh, i'm very sorry I didn't read your original correctly. Thanks for the advice though. Has helped massively.

Can anybody give me some information on how to add a slight degree to the neck pocket. People on the forum have said it needs to be around 3 degrees for intonation to work correctly. How would I go about make a 3 degree cut?


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#21
I'm going to buy a guitar book to help me aswell as forums and my knowledge. Ive heard 'Make Your Own Electric Guitar' by Melvyn Hiscock, is a good buy.

Do you guys think this would be worth purchasing?


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#22
Quote by Lordoflax
I'm going to buy a guitar book to help me aswell as forums and my knowledge. Ive heard 'Make Your Own Electric Guitar' by Melvyn Hiscock, is a good buy.

Do you guys think this would be worth purchasing?


Definitely if you're looking at doing more than one guitar. There's another book by a guy with a funny name, I know dave293 has recommended it on various occasions.
"Everybody, one day will die and be forgotten. Act and behave in a way that will make life interesting and fun. Find a passion, form relationships, don't be afraid to get out there and fuck what everyone else thinks."
#24
Quote by Lordoflax
I'm going to buy a guitar book to help me aswell as forums and my knowledge. Ive heard 'Make Your Own Electric Guitar' by Melvyn Hiscock, is a good buy.

Do you guys think this would be worth purchasing?


That is a good book, probably the best on the subject. Definately woth getting.
#25
Well, i'm scratching my design for the guitar and building a guitar with an LPS shape. I'll post a picture of the template later.


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#26
So heres the new template.



I need to ask you guys for some opinions.

For the make I was planning on doing this:

Dark wood (back) - Light wood (middle) - Dark wood (top)

or

Light wood (back) - Dark wood (middle) - Light wood (top)

Obviously the back and top wouldn't be the same thickness as the middle wood.

Does anybody have any suggestions for the wood which I should use. I'm looking for a nice warm tone but i'm not to bothered if it is also bright.

There was a site which decribed each would and rated its tonal properties i.e warm/bright. But I can't remember it, can anybody?


TINY TERROR FOR SALE!

Orange Rocker 30 head and a Tiny Terror
Last edited by Lordoflax at Feb 10, 2007,
#27
Sorry about my impatience


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#28
http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/options/options_bodywoods.cfm

Why don't you try mahogany and alder, or mahogany and maple?

By the way, the template looks mega lopsided.

Chris
'Aim at perfection in everything, though in most things it is unattainable. However, they who aim at it, and persevere, will come much nearer to it than those whose despondency and laziness make them give it up as unattainable.'
#29
Quote by AlGeeEater
http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/options/options_bodywoods.cfm

Why don't you try mahogany and alder, or mahogany and maple?

By the way, the template looks mega lopsided.

Chris


Do you mean the right side of the body? I thought that

Also, If i was to have a flamed maple top with a mahogany middle. What should I have for the back? A standard maple wood, or just keep it as the mahogany?


TINY TERROR FOR SALE!

Orange Rocker 30 head and a Tiny Terror
Last edited by Lordoflax at Feb 10, 2007,
#30
The new shape sorta reminds me of a shergold. Awesome.

I read that your based in Oldham dude, Me to. What part of town you kickin' around?
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#31
Quote by Pedricko
The new shape sorta reminds me of a shergold. Awesome.

I read that your based in Oldham dude, Me to. What part of town you kickin' around?


Chadderton you?


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#32
Just plain oldham. Judging by your user name, is your second name 'lax' perchanc? theres a 99.9% chance we're related if it is.
Quote by tubab0y
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#33
Quote by Pedricko
Just plain oldham. Judging by your user name, is your second name 'lax' perchanc? theres a 99.9% chance we're related if it is.


No my second name is lax :P

Anyway, can any1 answer my questions.

Much apprectiated. Thanks


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#34
I'm still very undecided about the wood. But i'm leaning towards mahogany and maple. If i choose maple for a top I will definately use a flamed top.

Anybody got more suggestions for wood?


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#35
Mahog + Maple, fo'so but quilted maple.

Your a lax too?
Quote by tubab0y
Woohoo, I love you Ped!
#36
Quote by Pedricko
Mahog + Maple, fo'so but quilted maple.

Your a lax too?


But should I have the maple on the back aswell?

Im not a lax


TINY TERROR FOR SALE!

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#37
Awesome about the un-relatedness there. Damn your misleading username!

I'd say leave the back mahog.
Quote by tubab0y
Woohoo, I love you Ped!
#38
Quote by Pedricko
Awesome about the un-relatedness there. Damn your misleading username!

I'd say leave the back mahog.


Yea I probably will do. Just asking for opnions.


TINY TERROR FOR SALE!

Orange Rocker 30 head and a Tiny Terror
#39
The new theme looks great. I migh sharpen the horns to a rounded point, or maybe on just one hook, but it would look awesome either way.

Mahog+maple=good.

Quilt Maple is great, Spalted maple for the neck, or mahogany neck
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#40
^Spalted maple for the neck? The maple that's been infected and has those nasty fungal patterns?

I've never heard of spalted maple for a neck, but I have heard of birdseye maple for a neck.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
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