#1
okay ive got an epi lp custom and all the 4 pots [tone & volume] have the habit of just suddenly dropping at around half way and so are really unversatile, and i know this is a common problem.

so will changing these pots make a difference to this? or is it a bigger problem, and if so how much will it cost [in the uk].

i can solder and everything, im just wondering what i exactly would need to replace them with
#2
So wait, you find the volume drops too sudden?
No problemo. No need for new pots.
I found my volume changes to extreme for my liking, as well. The problem is that when you turn your volume down, some fo the treble frequencies are sent to ground as well. This results in an audible loss of volume, greater than one would expect. Baaaasically, that's what's going on.
So you need a treble bleed circuit. Extremely easy.

You just need some .001 uF (microfarads) capacitors. 2 for the volumes. You can add a 150K resistor in series with it to make the humbucker see your stock 500K pots as like...350K pots. If you think your HBs are too bright.
http://www.guitarnuts.com/wiring/volpass.php
You can get the caps at maybe a local Radioshack, or stewmac.com, or smallbearelec.com
#3
would this fix the problem with the tone pots aswell then?

becasue its not so much a case of the tone going down, just that the pot seems to only kick in at a certain point to make it quieter//less trebly [on the vol/tone pots] and then dont do very much.
its just very unresponsive
so will that fix this problem?
#4
Nah, this is for volumes. Perhaps you should change the tone pots. Can you see if there is anything like A500K or B500K on them? If they say B500K, you might want to consider going to smallbearelec.com and buying their Audio taper 500K pots. Actually...No, theirs aren't long shaft, which you would need for an LP. Maybe stewmac's pots are Audio taper, I don't know.

Personally, I've never really been satisfied with conventional tone controls. I've never foudn them to be as responsive as I'd like. I use them a lot, though. Mostly just in extremes. You know, 10, 7 and 0. I'm working on this idea I've read about, based on the Gretsch Varitone switch, and a switch Gibson implemented on their short lived NightHawk guitar...I just gotta order the parts. Check it out, maybe you'd like it, too.
http://alexplorer.net/guitar/mods/varitone.html
#5
it could be that for some odd reason they used the wrong kind of pots in the guitar. i think that you need audio taper instead of linear.

but i second the tone bleed.
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#6
so a tone bleed on each of the volume pots, and 2 replacement audio taper pots instead of the tone pots?

and that should hopefully clear it up?


and what is the difference between A500K and B500K pots?
#7
B500K are linear pots, whilst A500K are audio taper pots.
They work like this:
http://guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/category/wiringresources.1basicwiringfaqs/#q2

I used to have a link to a graph which made a lot more sense...but I can't find it.
Anyway, the Audio taper works better with how the human ear percieves sound.

And yeap, thats what ya need.
#8
awesome thanks for all the help =D
but one last question, i just checked my guitar and the tone pots are A's and the vol's are B pots.

shouldnt it be the other way round and therefore i dont need to change the tone pots? or should i upgrade them to some proper gibson ones?
and then should i change my volumes to A's and tone bleed them?
sorry bout this, im just new to modding the wiring in the guitar
#9
Are the tone caps soldered directly to the top of the pot?
I've never liked that style of wiring, but I find that's how most manufacturers solder their tone caps into the circuit.
Try...this..
This might make them work more effectively:
http://singlecoil.com/docs/paula.pdf
http://static.zoovy.com/img/guitarelectronics/-/wdu_hh3t22_02
This is how Gibson used to wire their guitar, I believe...I have mine like this, and it works better than it did when it was originally wired.