#1
hey i just bought some solder for my guitar modding, its 50 tin/50 lead plumbing solder, is that going to work?
Fender Hot Rod Deluxe
Takamine G340SC
Epiphone G 310
#3
yeah, dammit, i was looking for that stuff but i couldnt find it, oh well, ill try to find some
Fender Hot Rod Deluxe
Takamine G340SC
Epiphone G 310
#4
Radioshack should carry the 60/40. That's about all they're good for.
American Ash Deluxe Tele
Squire Standard Strat w/ Texas Specials
'65 Fender Deluxe Reverb RI
'53 Fender Deluxe 5C3
California Dreamer
Valve Junior
2X12 Avatar w/ V30's
#5
Yeah 60/40 tin lead is what you want. The plumbing solder has acid in it and over time it will eat away at electronic components.
#6
If you're in the UK/EU you might have to plump for lead free solder as the EU are the most stupid organisation in existence and think that a tiny bit of lead in solder will cause us all irreparable damage. I can tell you that unless you sit there melting a piece of solder inside your nose in an unventilated 2 foot by 2 foot cube for 20 hours a day for 15 years you're not going to die...

*cues political rant*

Anyways, if you want a decent lead-free solder I reccomend the multi-core brand and I'm fond of the stuff that comes on the red reel (as opposed to the funny green tube thing.) Or the antex stuff.

You could also use silver solder but it costs a load and is 100% not worth it for guitar purposes... Unless you're afraid that werewolves will attack you while playing.

For sale: Early 1985 Ibanez AH10 (Allan Holdsworth signature model) PM for details
#8
actually.. it just matters if its Rosin .Core or Acid Core....

Most plumbing is Acid core.. and won't even stick to the electronics...

but the Rosin does..

The percent of lead just dictates the way the solder finishes up
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#10
I like 63/37 is the best.
Rosin core, not acid.
I'm not very active here on UG currently.
I'm a retired Supermod off to the greener pastures of the real world.
#11
You won't be buying a large spool of solder. A small spool will last quite some time, so it's not going to cost much to go with the best. For any electronic work where you are dealing with a signal such as from your pickups, a good electronics solder with a silver content is the way to go. Trust me, it's worth it. Just visit any hi-fi forum and ask about solder types. Chances are pretty good that you will get some very strong opinions voiced for the silver type. Use the correct non-acid flux as well.

The only real trick to soldering is to make sure your iron is hot enough and to look carefully at your finished work. If the solder is shiny after it cools down, you've done a good job. If it's dull, you either didn't use enough heat, or you used too much. Practise a bit first on some scrap wire.
#12
Quote by power freak
If you're in the UK/EU you might have to plump for lead free solder as the EU are the most stupid organisation in existence and think that a tiny bit of lead in solder will cause us all irreparable damage. I can tell you that unless you sit there melting a piece of solder inside your nose in an unventilated 2 foot by 2 foot cube for 20 hours a day for 15 years you're not going to die...

*cues political rant*

Anyways, if you want a decent lead-free solder I reccomend the multi-core brand and I'm fond of the stuff that comes on the red reel (as opposed to the funny green tube thing.) Or the antex stuff.

You could also use silver solder but it costs a load and is 100% not worth it for guitar purposes... Unless you're afraid that werewolves will attack you while playing.



China has the same restriction on lead that the EU does now. They are trying to pass laws in the State of California as well. It's only a matter of time before all of the USA has the same laws about solder that the EU has. I would recomend using Kester 25 7040 8227. It's got a higher melting point than lead based solder, but a lower melting point than most lead free solders. It's also got a no clean flux core which is nice. It is kind of expensive and hard to get it takes some time to get used to using it, but it's worth it for the improved tone due to the silver content. Sorry powerfreak, but I can hear a differance.
Not taking any online orders.
#13
Quote by Vulcan
silver content is the way to go. Trust me, it's worth it. Just visit any hi-fi forum and ask about solder types. .

Hi-fi guys tend to listen with their eyes though. They tend to ignore any sort of physical laws that may govern their systems and just go on "voodoo." An example of which would be paying stupid amounts of money to raise their cd players (not the speakers) to ear level to get "better" tone.. Which is just preposterous.


Quote by CorduroyEW
It is kind of expensive and hard to get it takes some time to get used to using it, but it's worth it for the improved tone due to the silver content. Sorry powerfreak, but I can hear a differance.

May I ask how you "tested" this?

Whenever I've tried comparing solders I made up multiple identical leads with the only variable being the solders used.. Then did blind "taste tests" and tested them with a signal analyser. I found that my favourite cables from the bunch didn't use one type of solder (near enough a 50/50 split between silver solder and regular solder) and the analyser showed the same results (ie the "better" sounding ones were slightly louder and had slightly more harmonics.) Which I had to say didn't suprise me considering any resistance of a solder joint is completely overwhelmed by the resistance of the cable itself (assuming the joints are good.) Not to mention resistances elsewhere in the signal path.

In contrast the only places I've heard about the "benefits" of silver solder have been internet forums. Which as you know are prone for spreading rumours and misinformation like a forest fire.




FAKE EDIT: I second pinky on the 63/37 stuff if you can find it. It's eutectic meaning it will go from molten to solid almost instantly making the joints much wetter.
For sale: Early 1985 Ibanez AH10 (Allan Holdsworth signature model) PM for details
#14
Quote by power freak
If you're in the UK/EU you might have to plump for lead free solder as the EU are the most stupid organisation in existence and think that a tiny bit of lead in solder will cause us all irreparable damage. I can tell you that unless you sit there melting a piece of solder inside your nose in an unventilated 2 foot by 2 foot cube for 20 hours a day for 15 years you're not going to die...

*cues political rant*

Anyways, if you want a decent lead-free solder I reccomend the multi-core brand and I'm fond of the stuff that comes on the red reel (as opposed to the funny green tube thing.) Or the antex stuff.

You could also use silver solder but it costs a load and is 100% not worth it for guitar purposes... Unless you're afraid that werewolves will attack you while playing.




haha

lewis, you slay me
#15
Quote by power freak
May I ask how you "tested" this?



On the pickup maker forum that I'm a part of everybody was complaining about silver solder and RoHS. The big complaint was how hard it was to get a good joint with silver solder. Many makers were saying that they could not make a quality product with silver solder so they were going to stop selling in the EU. So I emailed BKP to see what they had to say. He seemed to think that the silver solder was much better than lead solder anyway.

When I tested this stuff I did not use lead solder because I'm not able to use it anyway. I tested the typical lead free solder and the silver solder. I used exactly the same leads and the same pickup. I had several local people try the pickup with the regular lead free solder. Then I had them try exactly the same guitar but with silver solder. Out of 12 people 5 said they couldn't hear a differance and 7 said that the trebble end was more clear with the silver solder. The people testing the pickup didn't know which solder I had used. It wasn't a real in depth test, but it was enough to make me think it was worth the extra money for the small silver content.
Not taking any online orders.
Last edited by CorduroyEW at Feb 10, 2007,