#1
Ok, so I've never thought about this until watching a couple of PickNGrin's videos on here.

I never really knew what to look out for when buying a guitar and so I got mine online as my local shop didn't have any left handed guitars in stock.

But the guitar is a Squire Strat and I've taken pictures of the strings and just wondered if the height of the strings looks normal to more experienced players (I've put my index behind the E string to show the height in case it wasn't visible on the black) :

Strings


5th Fret


17th Fret


21st Fret
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#2
thats very high dude. I just did the finger thing on mine to compare. Im on a Vintage though. Maybe you should lower it although you will lose sustain. Im a lefty too
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#3
Hm, yeah that does look a little bit high, but it is a squire =p
(Though the action on mine is quite decent..but its 12 years old lol (older, better with squire))

If you feel comfortable to lower it, do it as far as you can avoiding string buzz @ first fret.

Edit: Hold on...you cant alter the action on a fender can you? meh, tbh, you shouldnt have any biiig problems with it, maybe if you get into sweeping you might find it a tad difficult lol =p
#5
i lowered my old squier, piece of piss. DOOOO ITTTTT
Quote by Last_Serenade
dimebag put as much emotion in to 9/10 of his solos as hitler showed when putting jews in syanide showers.

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QUESTION! Does emo porn have blood everywhere from wrist wounds?

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HAHA U IS TEH EMOZORZ

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#6
How would I go about lowering it? And if I do, at what point should I stop?

Also my 6th string buzzes from the 8th fret up anyway.
UG's only Manic Street Preachers Fan [So It Seems]
임정현 / FunTwo - Canon Rock
2006 sucked anyways!
Damn stoopid signature
#7
I dont think you can on a Strat tbh. i could be wrong but, i dont see how.
#8
Quote by CraigKing
I dont think you can on a Strat tbh. i could be wrong but, i dont see how.


I've searched on Google on how to do it and a few websites say that the action can be adjusted but doesn't exactly say how.
UG's only Manic Street Preachers Fan [So It Seems]
임정현 / FunTwo - Canon Rock
2006 sucked anyways!
Damn stoopid signature
#9
on the bridge, you have some little silver twats. take an alan key to them

i cant explain how you kinda just do it....
Quote by Last_Serenade
dimebag put as much emotion in to 9/10 of his solos as hitler showed when putting jews in syanide showers.

Quote by P-Laverty
QUESTION! Does emo porn have blood everywhere from wrist wounds?

Quote by Dabey
HAHA U IS TEH EMOZORZ

no but seriously, HAHA U IS TEH EMOZORZ
#10
I don't really have any silver twats on my bridge, they just look like normal phillips screws underneath the strings and on the edge.

Should I take a picture of the bridge to show you what I mean?

-----
edit edit : Sorry, was probably being a spanner. Realised the top is to anchor it to the body.
edit :

Top


Side
UG's only Manic Street Preachers Fan [So It Seems]
임정현 / FunTwo - Canon Rock
2006 sucked anyways!
Damn stoopid signature
Last edited by 198x at Feb 13, 2007,
#12
In all honesty, you need to take that to a professional...I'll say that right off the bat. Trying to make adjustments if you're a newbie is NOT a good idea. But if you insist on trying it yourself, attempt it at your own risk. Here's the deal:
What they're talking about lowering are the bridge saddles. That's the things your strings set on. And to lower them, you need an allen wrench. You turn the little screw-type posts sticking up on either side of each string on each saddle.
Looking at the picture, yours needs big time help. First off, each saddle should be LEVEL...your low E looks decent but the rest are cocked to one side...not a good start. If you can do that much, it'll help.
Secondly, adjusting string height isn't done with the saddles alone. It also involves adjusting the truss rod in the neck. This is where it can get really tricky, and is NOT RECCOMENDED for a newbie...I can't stress that enough. How your neck is adjusted also determines how low your strings can go. You adjust the truss rod with a larger allen wrench and it goes in that hole right behind the nut. On some guitars it's covered with a little plastic plate. Hold the guitar up like you're shooting a gun, with the body at your chest and the neck being the "barrel"...you'll be looking down the low E side of the neck. It's best to sight down the neck against a white background..it's much easier to see. What you're looking for is too much forward bow or too much back bow. You also need a straightedge...something long enough to sit on the entire length of the fretboard and has...you guessed it...a straight edge.
What I do when I set up a guitar is I lay the straightedge on the frets..at the top of the curve. Then I start to turn the truss rod clockwise to tighten it (or counter-clockwise to loosen it if it has too much back-bow) until the neck is arrow straight...no gaps between the straight edge and the frets. You only turn little bits at a time...a 1/8 or 1/4 turn...it doesn't take much. Some guitars will play this way, others won't..they actually need a little forward bow. But this is how I start every one out. Once it's straight, I begin to lower the low E saddle...just a little at a time. I check it by playing it on every fret. If it doesn't buzz anywhere, I lower it just a tiny bit again...and check it again. If it starts to buzz anywhere, I back it off a little. I do this with every string. When it comes to the higher strings like the G,B,and E along with checking every fret, I also check by bending the string. Because the fretboard is curved if you lower the string too much it'll play fine straight but if you bend it, it will buzz and "fret out", and that isn't good either...you lose sustain on your bends. If the neck is arrow straight and I get buzzing on the first few frets, I immediately back off the tension on the neck by turning the truss rod counter-clockwise. Like I said before, some necks need a little forward bow...some people will tell you this is the case for every guitar.
The frets have a sight curve to them..this is called the radius. Ideally, your bridge saddles should follow that radius for optimal playing and have that same curve to them.
Now, after all that adjusting, the intonation should be set. That involves turning the screws at the very back of the bridge...the phillips heads. Those screws slide the saddles either forward or back. Setting intonation should be done with NEW STRINGS. Once you've got the action set up, Check the tuning of each string...open, and at the 12th fret. If they're the same, you're good. If the 12th fret is sharp (higher) you need to turn the screw clockwise and bring it BACK. If it's flat at the 12th fret (lower), you need to bring it FORWARD. But one way or another, the open string and the 12th fret need to be identical. Otherwise, when you tune the guitar to correct pitch and play a chord, it will sound "out" and won't ring true.
So, now you see why I said take it to a shop and have it professionally done. I learned by watching a professional do the neck adjustments and some of the bridge adjusments, and some I things I developed on my own. I know this is a long post, but that's what it involves.
Good luck to you!
Last edited by fretboarddragon at Feb 14, 2007,
#15
By the way, another side note: quality of the instrument can also be a factor. On some cheaper guitars, no matter what you do sometimes you just can't get the action as low as you'd like. On the other hand, I bought a Dean EVO XM for $100 and it had the best action right out of the box of ANY guitar I've ever played...and I thought I had my Les Paul wicked low!!