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#1
ok im making a new guitar thats shape will be


its gonna be a through neck curly maple neck with mahogny stripes on either side of the neck and walnut wings. ive already started and getting some pretty decent progress. the fretboard is gonna be zebra wood. i dont think im putting any markers on the top of it but im definatley putting side markers, reason being i dont use the top markers and i think personally itll look better alone if you dont think so tell me because im always open for opinion and suggestions.

specs


zebra wood fingerboard
curly maple neck
mahogony side stripes
walnut wings
GFS pickups(not final yet thinkin two humbuckers)
Wilkinson locking tuners
top mounting bridge from stewmac
10" radius fretboard
25.5" scale length
22 frets

starting wood




template A



Bridge



practice neck angled headstock(made of pine, headstock is gonna look like that)



rough cut of shape done


back cover plate done(yes im going all out and matching it with the grain exactly andputting that little pieceof mohogony on the end so it matches perfectly)




bridge(seems nice i didnt wanna make the strings go through the body cause i dont like putting holes through the body)



your questions, comments and suggestions are always welcome
#2
niccccccccccccccccccccceee wood
Cody Juice
--Sparks and Limerence--

Quote by Gemini
*blasts a load of cum in the threadstarter's face*

Always happy to help.
#3
Since it's going to be a neckthrough, why not go all out and do the string through the body deal. With the beautiful materials you're using, it'll have insane sustain I imagine. And if you're buying your PUs from GFS anyway, get the ferrules for the string through (save on shipping)!

Good Luck!

#4
i guess i could buy another bridge and use this one for another project but yousee ive had bad experiences with ferrules and does it reallt affect the sound in anyway if its not stringthrough?
#5
I'm suspecting yes. On a CS or higher-end Fender PBass or JBass or Tele, they usually have string throughs. The additional labor required to do them + the special bridge used are probably geared towards extracting the most from the the completed guitar.
#6
this bridge involves more labor because you have to route channels where you put the strings in the body. the strings are still in the body its just that you dont drill a completely through the body
#7
If it's a neck through I would go string through body aswell. You may aswell aim for the most sustain possible if you're going to the effort of bulding this guitar.

Looks like it's gonna be a sweet build. The woods you chose are awesome.
#9
It's not even routing. It's really just 6 holes that you can do with a handheld drill or a drill press. It's at the most a half hour of work if you take the longest possible method, and will be worth it for the sustain.
I'm also 90% sure that a company sells guitar bridges that have the option of going through the body, or mounting in the back of the bridge. I'd recommend one of those for any hardtale build.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#10
^Doing a string through a bit more work than just 6 holes and takes longer than you'd think. The way I do it to get accurate holes without the bits wandering means I have to drill 16 times, stoppping after each to set everything up.
#11
threadstarter, are you left handed?
Quote by asfastasdark
+1. This man knows his ****.


Walker Rose.
#12
Quote by dave293
^Doing a string through a bit more work than just 6 holes and takes longer than you'd think. The way I do it to get accurate holes without the bits wandering means I have to drill 16 times, stoppping after each to set everything up.


Oh Dave, always backing people up without sounding condescending. Thanks buddy.

But regardless of how many actual times the drill plunges, it's not an overly complex process, it can just be tedious and time consuming.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#13
That's excactly what I was trying to say, it can be time consuming, not just drilling 6 holes like your post suggested.

I didn't mean to sound condescending, just pointing out what it actualy is like. seeing as i've done it a few times.
#14
You didn't sound condescending, I was pointing out a good quality of your posting.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#15
k i think im gonna go with the same bridge for now because i already have it and if i use this one it can always be changed when i get more experience in ferrule(sp?) installation. theres gonna be more updates soon im probly gonna start the neck tonight or tommorow.

walker-rose- no i am right handed but play left handed because of problems with my left hand.
#16
Quote by Will_Minus
You didn't sound condescending, I was pointing out a good quality of your posting.


Oh ok i totally misinterpreted your post then.

carousel182: I love the wood selectioon and nice work with the cavity cover, can't say i'm that fond of the shape but it will probably grow on me.
#18
Hey, Carousel, this build looks promising. Quite impressive. And a cool design as well. Different, but not ludicrously extravagant. Also, nice woods. But that's what everybody says.

A question: When you say you're matching up the grain perfectly on that cover, yuo just mean that the grain lines run in the same direction, right? Because in that picture it doesn't look like it's actually the wood you took out of there...
Quote by dave293
^Doing a string through a bit more work than just 6 holes and takes longer than you'd think. The way I do it to get accurate holes without the bits wandering means I have to drill 16 times, stoppping after each to set everything up.

Since I have a string-through design on the drawing board, I'm interested in an elaboration on this. Why would I need to drill so many times, what advantages would it give me, and what disadvantages am I facing if I just drill right through?
Last edited by Pikka Bird at Feb 22, 2007,
#19
You postion the bridge on the body in correct position then slowly dril all the may through both E string holes stopping frequently to remove dust/chips for the holes.
You now drill half way through for the rest of the holes.

Now remove the bridge flip the guitar over and postion the bridge so the outer two holes line up. Now finish drilling the inner four holes from the back.
Next remove the bridge and drill ferrule holes.

There is a tutorial for this on the project guitar forums somewhere, but I couldn't find it.
EDIT: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=14828
By drilling half way through and removing dust/chips frequently you stop the drill bit wandering in the wood causing the holes to look terrible at the back.
#20
the grain is matched pretty good but on that picture its on the wrong half od the body or something cause it looks alot better than that. i probly wont restart building until monday cause im away until then.
#22
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#23
alright umm i got the peghead glued on and the fretboard cut to size no pics until tommorow. the progress that is done isnt really progress that is interesting to put in pictures therefore im gonna hold off on pics till the neck reall starts to take shape tommorow
#24
fretboard slotted






stew mac fret slotting miter box+templates and saw it amazing for slotting fretboards accurate and fast
#25
ok i got the taper of the fretboard and the side inlay dots done. i made some good jigs that i will share with anyone that wants to see them. the jigs are for holding the fretboard while installing side inlay dots and cutting tapers on tablesaw. pics coming as soon as i find my phone
#26
nice. as soon as i become smart. I'm making a guitar.
#29
thats why i did it. its unique atleast lol. and zebrawood works for fingerboards because its a very hard wood
#32
Your guitar is on PG too right? thought i recognised it somewhere.
#37
i cut out a veneer for the headstock, and theres probly gonna be pics of neck today or tommorow. tell me if you think i should use this as a veneer, or if you think it will look goofy.



ok so i have a good lathe and am pretty good at basic wood turning and have turned walnut a few times, so i know i could make some nice knobs with walnut. do you think i should make some custom knobs or use the stewmac knobs i bought (http://www.stewmac.com/catalog/images_1lg/4937_1lg.jpg) for the custom knobs i think i might try zebra wood, mahogony or maple as well. so whats your vote on knobs

-walnut
-stay with stewmac knobs
-zebrawood
-maple
-mahogony
Last edited by carousel182 at Mar 2, 2007,
#38
No on the StewMac knobs!!!

The plastic-looking knobs would not complement the beautiful neck and body you're building, IMHO. Since you have the woodworking skills anyway, any of the nice wood you mentioned should look beautiful as custom knobs.

#39
i like the knobs
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i im gonna have to agree with t heff
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