#1
Hey guys

for my school project im building an electric guitar and im attempting to build the neck rather than buy 1 (although if i i cant finish the neck in time i will just buy one).

So far ive cut out the body and sanded it down apart from the front which has 2 huge chips in it which im gonna have to plane out later. Ive also got the head stock angle cut buts its the next section that im stuck on.

Its a Sapele body (part of mahogany family apparently) with quilted maple top.
2 humbuckers (seymour duncan alcino 2s)
Bolt on neck (also made from sapele)
Gotoh string through bridge

Basically does anyone have any tips on how to route the slot for the truss rod? is there a special way to do it or any that prove very effective, im looking for the easiest way really.

I'll post pics later, how do i do that i havnt posted pics before?

Any other comments/help would be appreciated.
#2
When I routed my truss rod channels, I just used a fence on my router and ran it off one of the edges. ALWAYS keep straight, square edges for as long as possible, as you can work off them, save LOADS of time and make your work much more accurate.
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#3
Neck tips That's not gonna be the hardest part though... you're gonna love fretting this thing... You won't per sey need a fret saw, but you will need somethin super thin =\


*Edit* As long as you didn't get too far ahead of yourself and didn't start rounding the neck what Calum_Barrow said should be no problem at all. I learned that the hard way.
Last edited by vsabinring at Mar 1, 2007,
#4
nah i havent rounded the neck yet so i should be alright. Thanks Callum i just need to make sure the sides are perfectly square with the rest and thanks vsabinring for the site.
Im probably going to buy a preslotted fretboard rather than fret it myself, i do have access to a japenese saw but i dont think im going to have enough time to fret it myself. ill give it a go i guess would a japenese saw be alright for it? its got a very fine blade.

*EDIT* Ifi attempt to do the fretboard would a ruler like this be good?
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Measuring/1/Fret_Scale_Rule.html
Last edited by LedZepRule at Mar 1, 2007,
#5
sorry for double post but i thought pictures were in order

Body Blank with fretboard blank


Body after rough cut - you can see the chips at the bottom just to the left
#6
What are the chips from? From this angle they look like cup shakes, but I can't see properly.
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#7
when i put the quilted maple through the thicknesser it chattered because the wood wasnt very heavy and so put chips in it. i really wish id just hand planed it now
#8
I knew it would be that. The exotic figure of the wood is really prone to getting cup shakes and stuff. When I put my neck blank through the thicknessing planer even on that I got a little cup shake, and that figure is pretty plain. You gotta be careful with things like that on thicknessing planers.
Double Neck Project - Winner of 2006 GB&C "Best guitar build from scratch", "(Best) Most expensive build" and "Best Idea" awards - FINISHED!

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#9
when routing the truss rod slot does it need 2 be curved at the bottom or can it just be flat? or does it depend on the type of truss rod?
#10
depends on what type I suppose. I am using the type that are in aluminium channels, and I just rout out a 1/2" wide channel, that is flat at the bottom and I square off both ends to make the truss rod sit flush inside.
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#12
As deep as your truss rod. I made mine 1/2" because that is the width of my truss rod. Make it a nice snug fit on your truss rod, but not so that it cannot turn.
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#13
ok cheers calum. where do you get your truss rods from? mine isnt in aluminium channels so it might need a curved bottom, im not really sure.
#14
I bought mine from Touchstone Tonewoods, but they sent the wrong ones anyway (they are a little shorter than the ones I ordered)
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#16
Sapele huh?


I've not seen that many solid body guitars made of it. I built a bass out of Sapele last year, it sounds really warm and beefy. Not to mention really heavy

I recommend you put some big contours in, and/or make the body thinner. Or else it will hurt your back to play, I think Sapele is heavier than most other "mahoganies"

Anyway, looking good!
#17
cheers, ive seen your thread and i bought the wood from the same place as you aswell. Ill be sure to put lots of contours in then
#18
Since you're putting a top on, you can always chamber the body.
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#19
You might consider rounding the edges heavily to disguise them chips. It sounds like a great build. are you doing the rounded horn on top like a PRS?
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#20
yeh i am doing rounded horns, thats just the rough cut ive still got to smooth it down and make it the correct shape.

Calum - Doesnt chambering the body affect the tone?

*EDIT* Calum do you use the 9588 truss rods from http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/ttwp10.html ?
Would this be alot easier to install in a neck and is it good even though it's cheap?
Last edited by LedZepRule at Mar 2, 2007,
#21
Quote by Calum_Barrow
Since you're putting a top on, you can always chamber the body.


+1. Chambering sounds like a good idea. You could take one of two approaches. You could have a couple of larger chambers under the top or you could take the Warmoth approach of many small chambers. This latter style would have less of an impact on the overall tone of the instrument.

Regards,

Rob
#22
Quote by LedZepRule
yeh i am doing rounded horns, thats just the rough cut ive still got to smooth it down and make it the correct shape.

Calum - Doesnt chambering the body affect the tone?

*EDIT* Calum do you use the 9588 truss rods from http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/ttwp10.html ?
Would this be alot easier to install in a neck and is it good even though it's cheap?

Yup those are the truss rods I used. Chambering will add more resonance to the guitar, and it will sound more, well, hollow. It won't sound like an ES-335 or an acoustic or anything, but it will be more resonant. Also, if you keep the middle of the guitar solid, then you will still have very good sustain. Try and keep the middle portion so that sustain isn't affected as much (it will be reduced by chambering, but this shouldn't be too great what with the middle being solid and the guitar still being solid and having no f-holes etc)
Double Neck Project - Winner of 2006 GB&C "Best guitar build from scratch", "(Best) Most expensive build" and "Best Idea" awards - FINISHED!

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