#1
Alright, this is going to be my second guitar body I've ever built. However, before I start on the actually planning/building process, I have a few questions I need some concrete answers on.

*My first guitar project came out ok, but by no means great. The string action is way too high for my liking, and the neck pocket in general came out bad. Everything was measured well, but when you have a "get it done quick" friend (with no guitar experience) helping with the build, it's hard to be spot on with what your looking for.

On to the questions...


How do I route the neck pocket so it's exact? Do you route on the inside of your mark and file/sand your way out to your mark?

Is it possible to make a body out of one piece of wood? So it's not two sides glued together. (not ply wood or pressed laminate boards.) I've been searching the internet forever, and I can't find one place that makes a board that is to my specifics. (2" thick, 17"+ wide, any length)

(This sounds like a lame question)
Does it matter how far back I place the bridge? (relative to the neck) I mean, will it mess with the sound or even intonation in general? Is there a "sweet spot" to place the bridge so it'll sound the best?

Finally, (unrelated to the guitar building) how do I post pictures on UG? Do I need a photo bucket account or something like that? I'm asking so later on I can post pictures of my guitar, along with thread info., while I'm in the building process.

These may sound like lame questions, but I can't find anything (specifically) on the videos/articles I've read online.


Thanks guys.
#2
Quote by Guitarjunkie18
Alright, this is going to be my second guitar body I've ever
(This sounds like a lame question)
Does it matter how far back I place the bridge? (relative to the neck) I mean, will it mess with the sound or even intonation in general? Is there a "sweet spot" to place the bridge so it'll sound the best?



well it depends what the scale length of the neck is. bridge placement is like the most important thing for the intonation. i dont know how you did a build without knowing where to place the bridge? anyway find out what the scale length of the neck is and place it that distance from the nut to the bridge and your good.
#3
You place the bridge so that the highest string's saddle will be almost the same distance as the nut to the 12th fret, times two.

Or
0 to 12 = distance = x inches
0 to bridge = distance times two = y inches

y = scale length

Common scalre lengths for guitars are 24 3/4 inches and 25 1/2 inches.

As for the body, you can use a one peice body if you can find one that size. I'd recommend a 2 peice body, since the wood will be easier to find, and will be a bit cheaper. It'll also give you a centre line to work with.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#4
^ I had a guitar body I was copying the dimensions from in the first build. Now, I'm just kind of going with it. So your saying, if my guitar neck is 25 1/2" (for instance) Then I measure 25 1/2" from the nut to where ever the 25 1/2" ends at the body.


And that's how I get my bridge placement?
#5
Quote by Will_Minus
You place the bridge so that the highest string's saddle will be almost the same distance as the nut to the 12th fret, times two.

Or
0 to 12 = distance = x inches
0 to bridge = distance times two = y inches

y = scale length

Common scalre lengths for guitars are 24 3/4 inches and 25 1/2 inches.

As for the body, you can use a one peice body if you can find one that size. I'd recommend a 2 peice body, since the wood will be easier to find, and will be a bit cheaper. It'll also give you a centre line to work with.



Oh, ok... thanks dude. The center lines a good point too.
#6
Well, the i would do it is to measure 25 1/2 inches, mark that off. Then I'd take the bridge, and let the high E saddle out as far as it will go, then bring it in about 1 turn. Where the high E makes contact with the saddle should be at 25 1/2 inches.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#8
Neck pocket: Its all about making good jigs. You should be able to get it to almost the exact dimensions with a good jig, but Id recommend going just a fraction on the small side (better to cut and leave more, then to cut more and not have enough). So then with sand paper or chisels or some sort of scrapers (sand paper is hard to work with in those circumstances), start working away at the walls trying to fit the neck often. Then work away with a chisel to square the corners. It is all about a perfect balance of jigs and precise hand work.

As for the 1 piece body, check out your local lumer yards. Make sure you ask them whether the wood is dried (it would be kiln dried, most likely) to stable moisture levels. If so and they have the woods you like, I suggest you buy your wood locally. It will be cheaper, no wait, no surprises. Is 1 piece essential for you? Nice wood that wide can get pretty expensive if you can find it. It shouldnt be too hard 2 find pieces whose grain matches pretty well. Or if you find a fat slab (4" +) you could book match it, although good luck finding one.

Bridge placement if very specific. You need to pick a scale length (distance from nut to bridge). Gibsons generally use 24 3/4 inch (actually i think its 24 5/16), fender generally uses 25 1/2. Shorter scale length will give a warmer sound, longer will give a crispier sound and more sustain. Or you could go for something like 25 (prs), or what not. Once you have the scale length, you know where your bridge must be relative to your neck. You measure scale length from the inside of the nut to the bridge saddles.

For photos, set up an account at photobucket, upload your pics thenb copy and paste the code here.
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