Page 2 of 65
#41
Not reall,y seeing as you would need more coats of the white to cover the blue. Masking wont be that time consuming.
#42
I've nearly finished (1-2 more coats) finishing a mahogany body with nitro, and even after not having a new coat for 4 days, it is still very soft - storing it in the cardboard box it came in has scratched the hell out of it. The nitro I'm using is about 10% thinner and is being sprayed on. My question is, is this normal behaivor for nitro and what can be done to toughen it up so it doesn't blemish so easily?

Also, what is the best way to buff nitro so it isn't so sticky to touch? Use a wax or something, or go plain?
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#43
You need to leave nitro for a month or two after spraying to cure. After it has cured you can buff it. You need to be careful with it until then.
#44
By 'curing' you mean to just let is settle and soak into the grain for a couple of months?
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#45
Just leave it and it will harden and any possible shrinkback will occur. As a general rule leave it in a closet or whatever and when you can't smell it, it's ok.

Sorry if that doesn't make much sense, i'm tired.
#48
Ok, I read over this and 2 things I'd liek to clarify.

Duplicolor And krylon spraypaints are both acrylic lacquer based paints.

So if your asking about any other types of paints, acrylic paints (like model paints and stuff) work well for smaller designs and stuff. Lacquer also does work well.

And For all of you doing clear coats, if you haven't been informed yet, you will need at LEAST 9 medium light coats but more is definately good. I typically spray around 15-20 coats of nitro on my bodies. Other waterbased finishes will require about the same amount, but read the instructiosn on the cans before you follow my advise.

For polyurethane finishes, the poly comes on thick when you spray it, so I'd do about 6 coats with about 2 medium coats every otehr day. And allowing a full day of curing time in between. Then about a week of curing after that.

And btw, when working with lacquers, there will be shrink back, and full curing time after you spray all of your coats will be at least about a month or 2, before you can start buffing and polishing. But even then the finish will still be soft.

Your body wont' be cured hard in probably about 4-6 months.
#50
Quote by dave293
Just leave it and it will harden and any possible shrinkback will occur. As a general rule leave it in a closet or whatever and when you can't smell it, it's ok.

Sorry if that doesn't make much sense, i'm tired.


Thanks man.
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#51
Quote by kaplac
Ok, I read over this and 2 things I'd liek to clarify.

Duplicolor And krylon spraypaints are both acrylic lacquer based paints.

So if your asking about any other types of paints, acrylic paints (like model paints and stuff) work well for smaller designs and stuff. Lacquer also does work well.

And For all of you doing clear coats, if you haven't been informed yet, you will need at LEAST 9 medium light coats but more is definately good. I typically spray around 15-20 coats of nitro on my bodies. Other waterbased finishes will require about the same amount, but read the instructiosn on the cans before you follow my advise.

For polyurethane finishes, the poly comes on thick when you spray it, so I'd do about 6 coats with about 2 medium coats every otehr day. And allowing a full day of curing time in between. Then about a week of curing after that.

And btw, when working with lacquers, there will be shrink back, and full curing time after you spray all of your coats will be at least about a month or 2, before you can start buffing and polishing. But even then the finish will still be soft.

Your body wont' be cured hard in probably about 4-6 months.


Good god. That's a long time. Thanks for that info, though.
#52
Quote by forsaknazrael
Good god. That's a long time. Thanks for that info, though.


yea i read that even after the initial hardening period of those months, it can continue to harden and dry for years, but you cant actually notice it.
#53
Yeah, nitro never fully cures completely.

But it'll be hard enough to play with and toss around by about 4 months.

After 1-2 months, the lacquer is still really soft and will carry any impressions from the surfaces it was on for a prolonged period of time. So its best to treat it lightly even after your done sanding and buffing.
#54
When a strip a guitar with chemicals, what stripper do you recommend? And what do i do to keep the paint inside the pickup and control cavities safe (it insulates the electronics right)?
#55
I use jasco's chemical stripper, I think it's the one in a metallic yellow and red can. Its a paint and epoxy remover.

a lot of chemical strippers are really hit or miss. some strippers aren't strong enough to remove some paints.

Squiers I noticed are especially hard to strip since they load so much paint onto the bodies, and it's all pretty much rock hard poly.

And to protect the sheilding paint in the cavities, just don't put any stripper on it, or cover it with masking tape and cardboard. or something.
But I've found the greatest results from
#56
Quote by kaplac
I use jasco's chemical stripper, I think it's the one in a metallic yellow and red can. Its a paint and epoxy remover.

a lot of chemical strippers are really hit or miss. some strippers aren't strong enough to remove some paints.

Squiers I noticed are especially hard to strip since they load so much paint onto the bodies, and it's all pretty much rock hard poly.

And to protect the sheilding paint in the cavities, just don't put any stripper on it, or cover it with masking tape and cardboard. or something.
But I've found the greatest results from



be careful with that stuff, like wear gloves and whatnot, its not fun to get on your skin, unless you're into the whole chemical burning thing

didnt think so...
#57
^ true dat

The stuff is pretty nasty on skin forgot to mention that.

And I noticed even with gloves it still went through to the skin, so might want to get a pair of super industrial gloves if you don't want a nasty burn for a couple hours.
#58
Am i able to spray Satin Laquer onto a sunburst paint?
Will it be able to look more worn out like a vintage strat?
#59
It wont' look worn out, it'll just be not shiney. It guess it coud look worn. But it won't look like a 70s strat that was played to hell over the years.
#61
how do i get my guitar to look like this?
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#62
Hi, i was gonna make a thread on this topic, but i thought id rather just post here. Does anyone know if car paint would work alright on a guitar? Thanks in advance.

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#63
I airbrush guitars using water based automotive paints. They are called Auto Air and Etac. You can also use House of kolor paints with no problem.

Just get it nicely clear coated afterward to protect that paintwork
#64
Cool, thanks for the answer dude
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#65
Is the holoflash mentioned in the first page that hard to do? It looks fairly simple, just time consuming
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#66
Quote by Guitarislife125
It appears Steinberger did a few of these way back when aswell.


thats a marble finish
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#68
i think it involves cotton balls and gold leaf, but i've never heard how to actually do it.

and the holoflash isn't all that hard to do.
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#69
if i wanted to get a certain design on my guitar, would getting it stickered work? like an outline of something, for example a biohazard sign, if i get it in that sticket when you peel off the back, place the sticker, then peel of the front (sorry i forget the name) but if i wanted to use one of those would it work?

i'm thinking that if i did it would take LOTS of clear coat to get rid of the bump, but i wouldn't mind that, i guess the question i'm really asking is would clear coat harm the sticker?
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#71
Quote by forsaknazrael
Tape. Lots of it. Search frankenstrat, or EVH, in this forum. You'll find a BILLION threads.


the finish is pretty basic, but getting a strat to look that beat up is gonna take some work.

but most likely he was just talking about the finish
#72
how would you go around making a guitar look like the Zakk Wylde buzzsaw?
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#73
Get me a pic of ANY guitar (preferably black) and i can put ANY picture or texture on it. It also looks realistic!
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#75
I put primer on the bass, and it says to sand with 220 grit sandpaper. I started sanding and with 3 strokes back and forth the primer was already stripped to the wood. Am I supposed to go to the wood or am I doing it wrong?
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#77
Quote by Tha_maxzzz
How would one go by painting a scratchplate?

Spray paint. Maybe rough it up a bit with sandpaper, but use really fine sand paper like 400 grit.
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#78
Quote by Tha_maxzzz
How would one go by painting a scratchplate?

Rust-o-leum, Krylon, and lots of other spraypaint brands specifically made for plastic.
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There's no need to scuff sand since the paint will form a molecular bond with the plastic. Yes, you need to remove the electronics and knobs. Buy the $8 soldering kit from RadioShack and practice for a day. Then you'll learn a new skill. Good Luck!

#79
Quote by CORT noob
Spray paint. Maybe rough it up a bit with sandpaper, but use really fine sand paper like 400 grit.

Exactly. Sand the pickgaurd with 400 grit sandpaper, prime and spray your color.
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#80
Quote by CORT noob
I put primer on the bass, and it says to sand with 220 grit sandpaper. I started sanding and with 3 strokes back and forth the primer was already stripped to the wood. Am I supposed to go to the wood or am I doing it wrong?

You're supposed to be sanding with a flat spot, so that the primer will fill any low spots or dips. Spray 2-3 coats of the primer, let it cure for 24 hours and then sand it evenly. You will probaly notice primer in some spots that wont sand out, those are low spots.

Use 320 or 400 grit for sanding the primer though, 220 is a bit rough to be sanding fresh paint.
'Aim at perfection in everything, though in most things it is unattainable. However, they who aim at it, and persevere, will come much nearer to it than those whose despondency and laziness make them give it up as unattainable.'