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#161
Well I'm going to undertake my first refinishing job sometime in the next two weeks. What i want to do is apply strip the paint off my Bonplay guitar and then apply a graphic using felt tip pen.
My two concerns are

  • I've never taken a guitar apart before and I can't seem to find any tutorials on how to do it
  • 2. Will the laquer rub off my pen?


Thanks heaps for any replies
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9_11_4:
.


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...
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#162
the_spiker: Many will argue that the lacquer affects the guitar's sound. But honestly, for electric guitars, its kind of a ridiculous statement. You may however find a tad bit more openness or sustain to the sound. Acoustic instruments are where lacquer can definately affect tone.

9_11_4: taking a guitar apart is pretty simple, take the strings off, unscrew and screws you see on the body, there will be at least one maybe 2 wires you will need to unsolder to completely take out the electronics. The neck will come off if it is a bolt-on neck, otherwise it stays on. The tuners come off from the front, at the base of the wood and the tuning post there will be a nut, just unscrew those, in some cases there will also be an additional screw on the back of the tuners as well. The bridge will either come off with the screws if it's a six point trem, or if if its a 2 point trem, or a ToM, you can just pretty much figure it out. There will be a couple metal bushings that seem stuck in the body, that can be taking out by puting the screw back in the bushing about halfway, and pulling it out with pliers with a piece of cloth wrapped around them.

If you get stuck in any of the processes just google a more specific search like, "taking out guitar tuners" or "removign guitar tuners" They will tield much more results then "gutting guitar"

As for the lacquer, I'm not exactly sure what you mean. If by felt tip you meant permanent marker, and you writing ON the body, then you should be fine. Just remember to clear coat over the pen so that the pen doesn't rub off after time.
#163
Quote by kaplac
the_spiker: Many will argue that the lacquer affects the guitar's sound. But honestly, for electric guitars, its kind of a ridiculous statement. You may however find a tad bit more openness or sustain to the sound. Acoustic instruments are where lacquer can definately affect tone.

Any specific sandpaper I ought to be using? I heard 60 grit.
#164
Quote by kaplac
the_spiker: Many will argue that the lacquer affects the guitar's sound. But honestly, for electric guitars, its kind of a ridiculous statement. You may however find a tad bit more openness or sustain to the sound. Acoustic instruments are where lacquer can definately affect tone.

9_11_4: taking a guitar apart is pretty simple, take the strings off, unscrew and screws you see on the body, there will be at least one maybe 2 wires you will need to unsolder to completely take out the electronics. The neck will come off if it is a bolt-on neck, otherwise it stays on. The tuners come off from the front, at the base of the wood and the tuning post there will be a nut, just unscrew those, in some cases there will also be an additional screw on the back of the tuners as well. The bridge will either come off with the screws if it's a six point trem, or if if its a 2 point trem, or a ToM, you can just pretty much figure it out. There will be a couple metal bushings that seem stuck in the body, that can be taking out by puting the screw back in the bushing about halfway, and pulling it out with pliers with a piece of cloth wrapped around them.

If you get stuck in any of the processes just google a more specific search like, "taking out guitar tuners" or "removign guitar tuners" They will tield much more results then "gutting guitar"

As for the lacquer, I'm not exactly sure what you mean. If by felt tip you meant permanent marker, and you writing ON the body, then you should be fine. Just remember to clear coat over the pen so that the pen doesn't rub off after time.


Thanks a million for your help.. One last question. How do i unsolder? And then how do i re solder what i unsoldered before?
Quote by Internal Chaos

9_11_4:
.


Quote by Slaytanic1993
...
I you 9_11_4, you like Chuck, Opeth, and don't mind porn, that = epic metul win.


Quote by webbtje


Ash, stop masturbating.
#165
The_spiker: yeah 60 grit will work fine. Any kind of sandpaper will work fine for stripping paint. Since you have a large amount of paint to remove a more lower grit of paper is recommended. So yes, 60 should work completely fine.

9_11_4: Unsoldering is a simple process, you will need a soldering iron and a desoldering bulb or a desoldering braid. First you put the soldering iron on the solder joint you wish to remove, until the solder is a liquidy mass. If you have a desoldering bulb you would just squeeze he bulb and suck in the solder, if you have a braid then you would just lay the braid on top of the solder mass and it will suck the solder into the braid. And to resolder what you unsoldered, you just put the contained wires/pots back into a mechanically tight fit so that it doesn't fall apart in the middle of soldering, then you heat up the joint with the soldering iron and apply a bit of 60/40 rosin core solder. The way I just said is the "correct" way to solder stuff, but I find sometimes it's hard to heat up the wires and pots then apply the solder before it cools down, so usually I melt alittle solder into the joint with the iron. If you get a soldering starter kit at radioshack or whathaveyou, there should be a quick step by step introduction to soldering. Otherwise, google is your friend. There is an immense amount of information out there, and a lot are "related to your interests"

And no problem about the help, I haven't been in these forums in a long time, and I just help people in the mornings before I go to school.
#166
Hey, what do you reckon is better to stain a guitar's body, water or alcohol based stain?
all the world's indeed a stage and we are merely players
#167
Quote by fexnah
Hey, what do you reckon is better to stain a guitar's body, water or alcohol based stain?

It's all preference ... I like water-based; here's a Tutorial from start to finish: http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/bridge_body/electric/tsblueguitar/blue_guitar01.html

Also, on the first page of this sticky:
Aniline dye: http://www.reranch.com/dyes.htm
3d Finishing on figured wood: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/3d.htm
Last edited by Ippon at Sep 17, 2007,
#168
Just keep in mind water based dyes have to be applied directly to wood. alcohol (aniline) based dyes will work over lacquer and whatever else. Google it and there are different pros and cons between the useage of both forms of dyes. But it is all just personal preference.
#169
are there any cons to leaving the guitar un-finished (bare wood)??
Quote by Nick111111111
Am i missing some thing
car speaker=12 watts
outlet=120 watts
?????????????????

laws of phisics down the dump....... volts and watts are the same
#170
Thanks guys, I'm going for water based then. Greets.
all the world's indeed a stage and we are merely players
#171
Yes, the wood will be VERY susceptible to water warping, the wood will be very prone to dents and scratches, compared to a lacquered body. It can also even start to rot if it gets wet enough.
And dont' forget splinters...

yeah, just finish it, even an oil finish is better then nothing.
#172
yeah so i think i will go for the fastest route and the most natural looking finish
tung oil amirite??
Quote by Nick111111111
Am i missing some thing
car speaker=12 watts
outlet=120 watts
?????????????????

laws of phisics down the dump....... volts and watts are the same
#173
i dissagree, use poster paints, put your hand in the paint and then put your hand all over the guitar and rub it in good
#174
ahem i wanted natural finish.....
Quote by Nick111111111
Am i missing some thing
car speaker=12 watts
outlet=120 watts
?????????????????

laws of phisics down the dump....... volts and watts are the same
#175
many people like tung oil, people have also used gunstock oil, linseed oil, tru oil, as well as a multitude of other oil finishes.

I've only used tung oil, so I can't say much about this subject.
#177
so almost any oil works?
Quote by Nick111111111
Am i missing some thing
car speaker=12 watts
outlet=120 watts
?????????????????

laws of phisics down the dump....... volts and watts are the same
#178
SOMETHINGSOAD: they can apply, but acoustic guitars are effeted much moreso from painting then electric guitars are. So I honestly wouldnt' do it. But whatever floats your boat.

shuyoso: any oil based finish. There are wood finishes that are oils. But you can't go around using vegetable oil, it just won't hang too well with the wood. And it'll suck... and it wont' protect the wood.
Last edited by kaplac at Sep 23, 2007,
#179
Need a quick reply to painting question!


I wanna do a Matt black on my fender, I have it sanded down etc. ready to paint!

Will I have to Laquer (Sp?) it or what?

Could someone possibly give me steps how to do it matt black and what I will need! Thanks!!
#180
Ive got an old strat, and have sanded it down to the grain.
I have read that you have to slowly sand it, changing the paper to a higher grit so that you get a smooth finish.

I wanted to achieve a stained wood with glossy finish look.

How would I go about doing this?
Guitar Modding Newb
#181
someone gave me an old First Act electric for $5 that was beat up alot, so I sanded it so that it looks grey (it was originally black) and I was planning to repaint it, but I think the rustic "faded" kind of look is cool, but now the wood is not sealed, how would I seal it without giving it a shine?
#182
God. I know I'm gonna get killed for asking this question...but I'm planning on buying a new guitar. An LTD EC-400 AT, actually.

And I want to just spraypaint a stencil onTOP of the already finished guitar. I live in the city, so it's too expensive and hard to strip my guitar and completely re-finish it. The only thing I have access to, is stencils and many different kinds of spray paint.

So let me know if this is possible. Hell, it doesn't even matter if the spray eventually rubs off--I just want something personal on there, you know?
#183
False God: Read the tutorials on page one, the matte/gloss of your finish depends mostly on the paint and the clear coat you select for your project. http://www.reranch.com/solids.htm this is the tutorial for you.

Eliot: There are three stains/dyes tutorials on page one, check them out. As said above, the glossiness of your finish depends on the materials you use to paint the guitar.

Wylde Life: If you just sanded to the gray areas then you got to the primer layer of the guitar. Primer is used to seal the wood and give a better surface for the paint to stick to, your guitar is still sealed because of it, I guess you are asking how to clearcoat it without making it glossy. Buy matte clearcoat and follow the steps in the tutorials of page one.

Serizawa: You can stencil something on top of the guitar but you would still need to sand of the area and clear coat it again after you painted the stencil. If you don't sand off the clearcoat before spraying then your design will get ****ed up pretty fast and I don't think you will like it....

Hope I could help you all.


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UniverseZero is some kind of pwnerer of numerals

Quote by spazzymagee417
your avatar entertains me.
#184
@UniverseZero
Yeah thanks for your help so far. Since I'm gonna be using a more modern guitar that doesn't have any nitro-cellulose er...finishing, could I get away with just using the type of spray paint that is made to bond with plastic?

Furthermore, if I had to sand and then re-finish my guitar, what products would I need to get the finish to OVER ALL--match the rest of the body. Thanks again.
#185
Tell me, are all sanding sealers transparent?
all the world's indeed a stage and we are merely players
#186
If anybody is not happy with the varnish that comes on the guitar's neck (as bought)
i.e. is a bit sticky and doesn't let you move up and down fast enough
if you are like me and are too lazy to refinish it i have found that a strip of cheap electrical tape - the coloured kind - down the neck will even out the traction or what i have even more recently found HAIR GEL spread evenly down the neck and leave to dry GREAT
#187
fexnah, yes, generally they are always transparent, but you can apply wood dyes into them and make them different colors. Generally grain fillers come in different colors like black, think of a voodoo SG, The grain of a voodoo is due to a black colored grain filler.

GENIOUS1: I don't really know what to say. I suggest you don't tell people these kinds of statements. They are both potentially harmful to the ax, and is harmful to resale value, if the owner wishes to sell the ax. Electrical tape, will shrink and expand to the weather, as well as start to peel. And when it comes off, it leaves the worst line of sticky residue. And hair gel although smooth at the first application, after it dries, it will heat up from playing and start to get putty like. And it's just messy.

For a much more sensible solution to a sticky lacquered neck, I suggest sanding lightly down the whole neck with #00000 grade steel wool. It is hardly noticable, won't affect resale value, doesn't need reapplication, and doesn't require sacrificing the looks of the guitar by putting a big line of yellow down the back of your neck.
#188
how hard is it to do a burst paint job? im thinking about turning my epi lp into an accurate silverburst recreation and im just wondering how hard it would be to do the front, sides, neck, and headstock(the back isn't arched so i don't know if it would look right there)
#189
It depends entirely on your skilll level and equipment. I take it you have no experience, so it will be hard just spray bombing. If you'r einterested invest in some professional spray gun/air compressor equipment if you want to paint it really well. However, that will set you back quite a bit.
#190
yeah rattles are kinda uncontrollable. Just work a lot with some spray cans on a peice of scrap wood, your going to want the spray the outer color so that the edge of the guitar is just hitting the center line of the spray width. Make sure you don't use near empty cans, because once the can's spray getting empty their spray patterns go bezerk
#191
Quote by chrisatgrace
here's mine!


Very cool guitar dude, but wrong thread....


Quote by robbo_0013
UniverseZero is some kind of pwnerer of numerals

Quote by spazzymagee417
your avatar entertains me.
#192
Hey, I stripped the old paint out of my bass, and I want to make it a natural wood finish (is that what it's called? Hehe). Do I use laquer, varnish or what? Also do I use the ones out of a spraycan or ol' tin and brush?
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#193
Hey guys do you know how to achieve this kind of an effect and if so do you know who would be able to make it for me? (i cant ask ESP because its James Hettfield's trademark logo)



"Its not how many years you are playing its how many hours"
#195
Quote by WhiteStripesIII
How do you get into the Buy Online section on the Reranch site??

try again in a couple of days. I guess when the server messes up it asks for a username & password.
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#196
How would I achieve this effect on an Ibanez Roadstar II?


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#197
Quote by Kaervek
How would I achieve this effect on an Ibanez Roadstar II?





It's a two part process. First, lay down your lighter color and let that dry fully. I'd wait at least several days or longer. Then, lay down your darker color. I assume you're going to use spray cans. If you are using a spray gun, a slow dry agent should be used in the top coat.

Next (and while the tope coat is still wet), and if you want to completely reproduce this, get some plastic wrap and a few friends. Have your friends hold the corners of the plastic wrap and wind the middle of the plastic wrap around something (a wooden dowel or something). Essentially, you just want to get the plastic wrap to twist and bunch in the middle. Then lay the plastic wrap down on the guitar, rub it down lightly and pull it back up. It will remove the top coat where the plastic touches the guitar. You'll then need to apply quite a bit of clear coat to level things off.
#199
I just sanded down the headstock of my old acoustic and found this beautiful grain, and I

really want to just tung oil it, where is the best place to get some? And would tung oil be

the best thing to use?
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i would much rather go to the ****ing hospital and have them surgically reattach my penis instead of slap some silly puddy on there and call 'er "mangled johnny"