#1
Ok so today the parts i'm fitting to my samick came (a new nut and some vol. and tone knobs) so I changed the knobs but when it came to the nut i could get one of the scrrews out but the other one got ****ed i tried drilling it out but that didn't work so what shud i do?
#2
shouldnt of tried drilling it out
Guitars:
Ibanez IC300
Fender American Strat w/RioGrande texas specials

Amps:
Fender FM212R
a now broken tube amp

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#5
If you've drilled the nut itself out,
From the way I'm taking it in as your giving the info it's gonna need some wood filler and a few bits and pieces to put it right.
Chances are it might not even go back to being right.
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#7
Quote by mrperson
Ok so today the parts i'm fitting to my samick came (a new nut and some vol. and tone knobs) so I changed the knobs but when it came to the nut i could get one of the scrrews out but the other one got ****ed i tried drilling it out but that didn't work so what shud i do?


dont do anything right now other then take it to a professional.

though Kingyem0c0re is probably right.
#8
yup you're pretty much ****ed......
"Where the Beatles wanted to hold your hand, the Stones wanted to fuck your sister or daughter"

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#9
nah the nuts is still on its the screw its stuck i tried to drill the top off but i didn't come off I probably will take it to a repairman 2mo
#10
If the screw is stuck all you can really do is try drilling it out or forcing it out. generally to drill the screw out you have to pretty much eliminate the entire screw. You can't drill it out from the top, you have to drill it out from where the screw enters.

Any reason why you couldn't get it out? was it stripped?

You may want to try fitting another size wrench into it.
#12
nah no its stuck about 3mm down in the nut so i cant get it out and i didn't touch the wood
#13
if your not gonna use that nut again you can sacrafice it and drill holes around the screw and you cna use plyers to turn it out
#14
You need to get a decent drill bit (high speed steel drill bit) small enough in diameter
to go down the shank of the screw. Then you need a tool called an Ezy-Out or similar
as Ezy out is a brand name. You can get them from any motor parts supplier.
What you do is drill down into the shank of the screw. insert the ezy-out which is tapered
& tap it in, so it bites into the remaining screw metal, then get a shifting spanner or similar to just undo the screw.

Oh the reason why you need a high speed drill bit is because the screw is (or should be) hardened steel. You probably found that out trying to drill it already.
Richard

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#15
yeh anyway at the moment it is sat at the guitarshop for the owner to take it to his repairman friend to fix it it will be back next week well i got 3 other guitars to play thanks for the help anyway but does anyone no how much thiis will cost?
#16
Quote by mrperson
Ok so today the parts i'm fitting to my samick came (a new nut and some vol. and tone knobs) so I changed the knobs but when it came to the nut i could get one of the scrrews out but the other one got ****ed i tried drilling it out but that didn't work so what shud i do?

just rip it out thats what i would do....or send it to a shop
#17
personally speaking from someone who has used the ezy-out technique 1000's of times albeit mainly on cars & electronic equiptment. I reckon if the guy charges you $10.oo he is ripping you off, so i suppose he'll charge $50.oo as with most guitar shops they know they have you by the balls. Rather than help they want to twist them (your balls)LOL. It is a five minute job. What is your time worth for five minutes? If i were you seriously i would take it to your local motor mechanic. No1 he will have the tools to do it, No2 it is my experiance that they are more willing to help than rip.
Sorry UG people if i sound down on guitar shops & the supposed luthiers that work there, but hey im 50, havent been playing that long but always have had guitars since 16. The only experiances i have had with supposed luthiers (in guitar shops) has been negative.
I oppologise if i offend. But it is my opinion.
Richard

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#18
^ +1 most of my LMS charge you up the butt.

I called up a L&M in my area to slot my nut, and they said it would cost $50 for a string change, and about another $50 to slot the nut, and about a 3week wait to get it back. They said they have to change the strings to slot the nut (which is BS because you can just detune... they also have specialty tools to lift the strings so you don't have to remove the strings completely) $100 for a string change and a slotted nut... long story short, I learned to do it myself,a nd I didn't have to wait 3 weeks to get my guitar back.
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#19
L_Z_Nut im with you , in your case it would still have been cheaper to brake your original nut & replace it with a new one (bought off eBay why give the guitar shops your buisness)
& you still would'nt have to wait 3 weeks.
Richard

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#20
ahhh no i got the part already im gonna fit it myself but i suck at DIY so the guy at the guitar shop is taking it to one of his friends. he is the only nice guy that works at a guitar shop and charges reasonable prices my samick was £100 and i've seen themn go for like £250 and also when i broke the output socket 3 days until a grade exam he fixed it within like 3 hours of dropping the guitar off and it cost like £5 too the part weas £3.50 so he charged £1.50. Yeh I get the guitar back on saturday but maybe earlier. It's ok but it'll take longer to get the pickups though.
#21
Ah it is so refreshing to hear someone talking of good experiances with guitar shop luthiers.
gee i dont have a pound symbol on my keyboard. I'm old enough to remember when we in Australia used L.S.D pounds shillings & pence, not lisurgic diazonol (trips) LMFAO (14-02-1966) was our changover date. When did you guys in ( 'd old dart ) shift from duodecimal to decimal pounds etc ?
Richard

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