#1
What schematic would I use for this? And what would the effects on my sound be when using the series option? I hear higher output, does this mean volume boost?

and one thing, if I would do this mod, I would replace my neck volume pot with a push/pull one. Does it matter wich pot I replace?

thanks!
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Last edited by m_hedborg at Mar 16, 2007,
#2
It doesn't matter what pot you replace, but personaly I'd replace the tone pot.

The series option will make it sound more like a humbucker.

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Use the series/parallel diagram. North-start = neck hot, north-Finish = neck ground, south-start = bridge ground, south-start = bridge hot.
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#3
Quote by m_hedborg
And what would the effects on my sound be when using the series option?


Series is what pickups are normally wired in. In parallel you'll get a drop in output.
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Last edited by al_ at Mar 17, 2007,
#4
^ No. A humbucker has both coils wired in series, giving it more output and power. This is why when you select positions 2 and 4 on a strat, you don't quite get the real humbucker sound. This is because most seperate pickups (Strat, Tele, J-bass, Les Paul, etc.) are wired in parallel.
Will says:
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#5
Thanks for the diagram, although, I don't think the paralell/series one would work, since a j-bass has individual volumes. And since you for some reason are banned now minus, I'll just look for the schematic myself...
thanks anyway


I got a hold of a simple description how to do the mod, and fooled around in paint. This is what i got



It looks a bit wierd, because when series mode is engaged, the hot from the bridge pickup will go to the switch, and end up on the same pole as the neck ground. Wouldn't this just cause the bridge pup to be dead quiet and the neck pickup to be left un-grounded= humming?


Another diagram, basicly the same as mine but the switch is upside down
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Last edited by m_hedborg at Mar 17, 2007,
#6
I'm bumbing, because someone has to know this. The timing with minus bann is just lame.
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#7
I RETURN! LIKE A PHOENIX OR HERPES.

Onto your question.

In the first diagram, in one position the middle poles will connect with the top two poles, this position will be normal function.

In the second position, the bridge's white (hot) wire will not go to the bridge volume pot, but instead it will go to the neck's black (ground) wire. It then goes through the neck pickup all the way to the neck pickup's white (hot) wire. Then to the neck's volume pot. In this position, the bridge volume pot becomes useless, and turns the neck's volume into a master volume.

By the way, I don't like that second diagram. It's not that it looks wrong, it's just that it looks weird.

Finally, it's nice to know that I was missed.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

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#8
Ah, the overwhelming knowledge of the herpes-man...

Thanks a lot for the help, I will go to the music store and order my little push pull-pot and try to solder this as soon as I get it. Be prepared to get an update.. =)

thanks!!
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#9
No problem.
Will says:
DON'T FEAR THE REAPER!
- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

Member #6 of the "I play my guitar as high as Tom Morello does" club
#10
Got my push/pull today, and installed it using the seymour duncan diagram. I had to wire the switch "upside-down" though. Good mod, I like the sound it gives, and even more versatility for a j-bass is welcome.
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#11
Oooh, did you wire your push/pull so the position you wanted on the majority of the time was the 'pull' position? I did that with my phase switch and it pissed me off for so long.
Will says:
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- SmarterChild - says:
I don't know if I can help it.

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#12
^No, I checked the switch with the mulitmeter, and gave it some thoughts. I wanted
pull up= series
down= parallel, standard

I would have been really pissed if I got the reversed....
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