It's nice, it's clear and it's accurate. A little additional advise from a long time grease monky; First: Always use high quality tools. Those allan wrenches provided by the manufacturer often are not up to the job. A high quality wrench of that size will cost less than half a packet of cigarettes but can save hundreds of € or $ of damage. The same goes for the phillips screwdriver. Never let a low quality no name tool come near your precious instrument (and 'Drop Forged', 'Chrome Vanadium' or 'Alloy Steel' are to be considered No Names).
Second, and for the same reason, release the string tension before adjusting the saddles. The heigth can be adjusted with the strings having just enough tension to run straight. The length must be adjusted with the string tension relieved but must be tested with the string tuned to pitch. This may be a bit tedious, but cutting corners here can easily ruin the delicate screws, so take you time.
Third; the small springs pushing the saddles from the bridge are way to small to push against the string tension. Shortening the string will probably require you to push the saddles in place by hand or by gentle tapping with the grip of the screwdriver.
Finally let me point out once more that the order in which Garywillis.com mentions the different stages is not random. It's always string gauche first, neck curvature second, action third and intonation last. Mess this up and you'll never get nowhere.
I got my kid a Squire Bass Pack and the action was sky high. The neck was bowed like a little kids archery kit too. Really Uggggly! So I dug around in the box and found NOTHING as far as doco goes. The Squire Web site had much useful information! Here is the link -->>


Pretty much the same as the tutorial above, but all on one sheet to dump to printer.

Now the Bass is MUCH BETTER! Very Cool! Would have been a good addition to the packaged materials!! Cheers to Squire for having the resource, Jeers to Squire for not putting it in the box!

So Sayeth The Ice Man...