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#41
Quote by The Axeman
I've got a question for you guys.

I just got a new guitar, a custom built strat. It has a Schaller Floyd Rose, the regular kind. Now, the guy who built it, he put some really big gauge strings on it, I think 11-52. Well I restrung it with 9-46 and now I have to adjust the bridge so it won't descend into the its cavity.

Of course I could let him to do it, but he's really busy all the time so I'd probably have to wait for a week or so... So my question is, should I do it myself or can I damage something? It seems easy tho, just loosen the 2 springs in the back right? Oh and it has 3 springs



yeah the 2 screws. and ull be fine.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


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#44
this thread makes me wanna get a floyd

I put my tobacco under my upper lip, just like anyone would do.

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#45
Quote by Buckethead5
this thread makes me wanna get a floyd

Me too. It looks 10x easier than i thought
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#46
Hi everyone.

I notice that the height of the bridge can be adjusted on both sides of the floyd rose, at the first string and at the sixth string. I'm using custom skinny top heavy bottom strings, 10's on top and some huge gauge on the bottom.

What's happening is that when I raise the bridge to create enough clearance for the bottom three strings that leaves the top three strings much further from the fretboard than they need to be and thus harder to play.

With this in mind, I was thinking about lowering just the first string side of the bridge to lower the top strings and preserve the distance for the bottom strings. So, the strings wouldn't be a uniform distance from the fretboard. Is there anything wrong with this approach? Will it create any problems for my playing or my sound?

Thanks
#47
Quote by GreasedKrist
Hi everyone.

I notice that the height of the bridge can be adjusted on both sides of the floyd rose, at the first string and at the sixth string. I'm using custom skinny top heavy bottom strings, 10's on top and some huge gauge on the bottom.

What's happening is that when I raise the bridge to create enough clearance for the bottom three strings that leaves the top three strings much further from the fretboard than they need to be and thus harder to play.

With this in mind, I was thinking about lowering just the first string side of the bridge to lower the top strings and preserve the distance for the bottom strings. So, the strings wouldn't be a uniform distance from the fretboard. Is there anything wrong with this approach? Will it create any problems for my playing or my sound?

Thanks

None at all. Action is all up to you, if you're comfortable with that height then go for it. There's nothing wrong unless you hear a lot of fret buzz.
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Thats what she said...
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#48
I have a major with my floyd rose and I wanted to see if anyone here can help. I bought a Ibanez for christmas shockingly it came perfectly tuned and set up and I havent had to tune it until now but guess what... every single screw on the thing seems either ridiuoucly tight and I cant loosen them or they seemed stripped (particulary the locks up at the headstock). Thanks in advanced.
#49
Quote by Binaryshadow
I have a major with my floyd rose and I wanted to see if anyone here can help. I bought a Ibanez for christmas shockingly it came perfectly tuned and set up and I havent had to tune it until now but guess what... every single screw on the thing seems either ridiuoucly tight and I cant loosen them or they seemed stripped (particulary the locks up at the headstock). Thanks in advanced.

Try it slowly with the right size allen key. If they wont budge, try a plier, dont force it. If the screws are stripped, then you'd need to get a plier to unscrew them. Look out for spare parts on eBay.

Which model is this Ibanez?
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Thats what she said...
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#50
I'm considering getting a guitar with a ZR trem (see sig)
I understand that the setup will be a bit of a pain, but will I have to do all this to change strings?
Gear:
-Ibanez S470 DXQM (Blue)
-Roland Cube 30X
#51
Quote by Jumboshrmp
I'm considering getting a guitar with a ZR trem (see sig)
I understand that the setup will be a bit of a pain, but will I have to do all this to change strings?

Yeah, there's no way to run from clipping ball ends/stringing backwards/locking everything up/etc etc. Unless you have a specially designed system to do so (e.g. EdgePro, Floyd Rose Speedloader).
"Play with your ears" - Yngwie Malmsteen, Paul Gilbert
Thats what she said...
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#52
I've been having some trouble with my ZR trem. I don't understand this thing at all -> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/madpickin03/Tremolo%20Unit/ZRsetup2.jpg which was in the original post. Are these different ways of setting it up? or are they steps in setting it up properly? and what the hell are the X and O things all about, and those arrows pointing up/down?

I posted a thread about my problems last night (before i saw this thread) in which I explain my problem more in depth. https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774233

Thanks in advance.
#53
Quote by Eirien
I've been having some trouble with my ZR trem. I don't understand this thing at all -> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/madpickin03/Tremolo%20Unit/ZRsetup2.jpg which was in the original post. Are these different ways of setting it up? or are they steps in setting it up properly? and what the hell are the X and O things all about, and those arrows pointing up/down?

I posted a thread about my problems last night (before i saw this thread) in which I explain my problem more in depth. https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774233

Thanks in advance.

Those are the correct step by step procedure to obtain the fullest of your Full Floating mode. Those arrows merely indicate that you oughta have the correct position labeled "O" and not "X". If you have "X"s like pic (1), you should follow the direction until you achieve "O". ("O"= Correct, "X" = Wrong).
Quote by Eirien
I bought an Ibanez S520EX a couple of weeks ago and I'm totally confused by the ZR on it.

So i thought i had found the correct way to have the spring tension set but i went to set the intonation last night and found that the intonation tool didn't fit into the slot on the high e because the back of the bridge was too low compared to the body. the thing the fine tuner screws into is slightly lower than the others despite all the tuners being screwed to a central position. is this normal?

So i tried to loosen the spring tension so the bridge would come up a bit and I could fit the intonation tool in and found that when it was like this the stop rod thingy in the back was being pushed out, which the owners manual doesn't seem to find acceptable. Does this mean i'll have to raise the bridge a bit?

And one last thing. My band's doing some recording in about a month and i want to have the guitar professionally set up by a tech. Do you think the average tech be able to figure out how the hell to set up the bridge or will I have to find one who has experience with ZRs?

SO. Has anyone got any useful information about any of the above? I'll be eternally greatful to anyone who does.


The high E or low E? like so?. Dont worry much about it.

Ok, so what i recommend you to do is first refer to my picture (in the 1st page) and see how the ZR system should be parallel with the body. Now, you'd need to unlock the locking nuts and retune/reintonate the whole system back. Make sure you balance the system while having the stop bar at the correct position to tap its fullest ability.

When reintonating your system, you need to make sure that the bridge is parallel and you're at your standard playing position. The saddles doesnt need to be aligned alltogether, as a matter of fact they shouldnt be in the same position (unless the intonation is correct). Make proper adjustments.

To make intonating an easier process, you can try and find anything to block your tremolo system and make it parallel. That way, you dont have to rebalance/retune the whole thing again and again whenever you want to intonate other strings. AAA battery can also work:


Taking it to a tech? It can be really expensive, varies. Just make sure you get a professional and not just some store clerks that reads manual to do it.
"Play with your ears" - Yngwie Malmsteen, Paul Gilbert
Thats what she said...
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Last edited by madpickin03 at Jan 30, 2008,
#57
what are you bumping?
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011
#59
Quote by madpickin03
Try it slowly with the right size allen key. If they wont budge, try a plier, dont force it. If the screws are stripped, then you'd need to get a plier to unscrew them. Look out for spare parts on eBay.

Which model is this Ibanez?


Sorry it took so long to respond... anyway its an Ibanez RG370DX, also thanks for the help.
#60
i have a liscensed Floyd on my Schecter, and i always keep it in standard drop D. now i once and a while like to go drop C, but when i do with my schecter, the floyd pulls on the strings way more and makes a lot more tension and kinda harder to play. is there something i have to adjust before dropping C?
Peavey XXX combo *upgraded screen resistors, Tung-Sol's, and 6L6's*
Schecter Syn Std. * modded, scalloped, and worn*
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#61
The springs on the back cavity, those you need to adjust according to the string tension to which you have reduced by dropping the Low E to drop C.

Also, you need to re-setup the whole trem again if you do this. A hassle yes but worth a shot if you are going to stay on drop C for a long while.
#62
...ok so how can i re-setup the whole trem? lol im kinda a n00b at floyds. since i got it, i havnt left drop D for longer than 20 minutes. lol
Peavey XXX combo *upgraded screen resistors, Tung-Sol's, and 6L6's*
Schecter Syn Std. * modded, scalloped, and worn*
Schecter C-1 Elite *still sexy*
Ibanez AEL 12-string

"He who sticks his dick in peanut butter is fucking nuts"
#63
Check on the first page, that's why this thread is created by Madpickin' in the first place.

Well if you can't bother though, you will need to retune every string again after dropping the low E to C, and that's going in a pattern like... Tune Low E to C then A then E again and D then A and so on...

Though I would really recommend not changing tunings too much as it will have an effect to you... most likely and probably... frustration if you aren't used to it.

Also, do read the first post of the thread. Much more helpful.
#64
How do you stretch strings?

Sorry for being a noob, i don't know
Quote by Bartleby
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#65
Quote by Dimster Ds
How do you stretch strings?

Sorry for being a noob, i don't know

After you've strung all your strings, pull each strings at about the 12th fret or anywhere gently. You can also bend notes at higher frets, just make sure they're done at about the center of the string length, but stretching can be done pretty much anywhere.
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#66
I'm having problems with me Edge pro. It seems to go out of tune when I whammy it hard, could it be the springs? My Edge pro has 5 springs in it. I play mostly in Drop C so I thought it would be best to have that many springs. Is this bad, should I use less springs or what?
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Jackson USA RR1 w/SD blackouts
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#67
Quote by cbehrendt
I'm having problems with me Edge pro. It seems to go out of tune when I whammy it hard, could it be the springs? My Edge pro has 5 springs in it. I play mostly in Drop C so I thought it would be best to have that many springs. Is this bad, should I use less springs or what?

5 can be too much but that shouldn't be the factor to go out of tune. However, you could still try having either 3 or 4 in there and see how it goes. Do you feel comfortable having 5 springs in there? Issit hard to press down the tremolo bar?
"Play with your ears" - Yngwie Malmsteen, Paul Gilbert
Thats what she said...
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#68
Its not really that hard to press on the trem Im just wondering if 5 springs is too many, because I dont want to end up damaging my Edge pro.
Peavey 6505+
Marshall Jcm-900 Lead 1960 cab
Jackson USA RR1 w/SD blackouts
Jackson Dominion w/SD Distortion
Jackson SLS3 w/SD blackouts
Maxon OD808
EH Small Clone chorus
Ampeg B2R
Ampeg Cabs, 4x10, 1x15
Rickenbacker Bass Guitar
Ibanez CP-9
#69
In that case, i'd say yeah. At the most, try 3 springs and if you're not satisfied with the tension, arrange it to be in " \ | / " formation instead of ur normal " | | | ". Too much tension isnt always good for your system (long term).
"Play with your ears" - Yngwie Malmsteen, Paul Gilbert
Thats what she said...
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#70
I have an odd problem. Ive adjusted my floyd fine, expect one thing.
When I use it, only the G-string goes out of tune. What do I do?
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#71
Have you stretched the stings properly?

Also, check your:
- Locking nuts, make sure they're at the right direction
- String lockers, secure them properly

After that, loosen all the locking nuts and retune your system. Do not overtight
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#72
It works! Thanks! But now something really weird. It keeps its tune without the nut lockers, but it doesnt with them!?!?!? What do I do now?
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#74
Yea I did. I tune them with the fine tuners, whammy, and then its out of tune. But with out the nut lockers, it goes back, but loses tune on its own pretty quickly. Any advise?

By the way, is the retainer bar supposed to touch the strings with the headstock?
CLICK ME shred on
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#75
Try interchanging between those 3 locking nuts.

And about the retainer bar, that's probably too low, try not to have too close coz it may scrape the finish.
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#76
Ok I have a pretty bad problem now. I took out 2 springs and fashioned the 3 springs like \|/ but now when I tried to tune it, the strings are very loose, even when the springs are really tight. And when the strings are at good tension, the bridge is too high. I am using guages 13-52. What should I do? Should I try restringing it again?
Peavey 6505+
Marshall Jcm-900 Lead 1960 cab
Jackson USA RR1 w/SD blackouts
Jackson Dominion w/SD Distortion
Jackson SLS3 w/SD blackouts
Maxon OD808
EH Small Clone chorus
Ampeg B2R
Ampeg Cabs, 4x10, 1x15
Rickenbacker Bass Guitar
Ibanez CP-9
#77
13-52 with standard tuning?

You probably need another spring in there
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#78
Its in drop C actually.
Peavey 6505+
Marshall Jcm-900 Lead 1960 cab
Jackson USA RR1 w/SD blackouts
Jackson Dominion w/SD Distortion
Jackson SLS3 w/SD blackouts
Maxon OD808
EH Small Clone chorus
Ampeg B2R
Ampeg Cabs, 4x10, 1x15
Rickenbacker Bass Guitar
Ibanez CP-9
#79
When you said "the strings are at good tension", are all 6 at perfect pitch and in tune?
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Thats what she said...
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