#1
Hey, i play funk and rake my strings. Hence i will be strumming constantly on the e,b,g strings. However, they are the weakest strings of all strings too. How do i solve this problem? I cant stop raking because it has already become my habit
#3
Quote by MrCarrot
thinner picks, thicker strings.



I use 3mm picks and 9's and rarely snap a string. Usually frequent string breaking comes down to bad saddles.
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#4
Quote by Bonsaischaap
I use 3mm picks and 9's and rarely snap a string. Usually frequent string breaking comes down to bad saddles.


I guess this is my problem then. It is just a cheapo Epiphone Special II :P Worst still, its buzzing everywhere
#5
feel for sharp edges at the saddle where the string passes over.

if u have about $30 (not much more than a few sets of strings) i suggest u swap out for graphtech saddle savers. or even a less expensive set of saddles.

where is it buzzing? what string and frets.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


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#7
Usually frequent string breaking comes down to bad saddles.


Absolutely. I've had to buff a dozen saddles over the years to stop a string-breaker, especially the small E string. I fold a small piece of 600 grit sandpaper and go over the groove of the offending saddle with it, that usually removes any burrs or sharp corners and stops string breakage.

The question has been asked also, where are the strings breaking? If it's always at the saddle, a burr or sharp corner is the problem. If strings break at a different location, probably the nut, it could be the same thing, a burr or sharp corner. If it's never the same spot, then it's difficult to tell. My guess would be string fatigue, change to a heavier gauge strings.

Also is this with new strings, or after they have been played a night or two? I must have some sort of salt, oil or enzyme in my skin that guitar strings don't like, if I play most of my guitars two nights I'll start popping strings halfway through the second night, third night at the most so I change strings every gig on my Strat, every other gig on the other guitars. (the strat attracts rust and corrosion for some reason, second gig I'm guaranteed broken strings, second set at best.) Using new strings I almost never break one onstage, once or twice a year on average.

If you want strings to last, always make sure and wipe down the guitar after playing, including between strings and fretboard, to remove salt, oils and finger grunge that corrodes and kills strings. You'll never remove all of it from the wound strings, but it will extend string life quite a bit.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
#8
Absolutely. I've had to buff a dozen saddles over the years to stop a string-breaker, especially the small E string. I fold a small piece of 600 grit sandpaper and go over the groove of the offending saddle with it, that usually removes any burrs or sharp corners and stops string breakage.


ive found sanding a futile effort on cheap saddles.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011
#9
He hasnt mentioned what brand of strings yet. I was having a big problem breaking strings. I am using .10s and 1mm picks, and I do hit the strings pretty hard. I tried using my set of nut files to smooth out the saddles, and it did help. But still broke a string a day just practicing. I was using the expensive elixers. I liked the way they felt and stood up to skin oils and acids good. But not much if they break all the time. And it wasnt just the plain strings it was the wound ones to. So I went back to non coated strings. Havent had one break since. And Ive been trying different brands to find the ones I like. So have 3 different brands on 3 different guitars. I also use fast fret silicone, or whatevers in it, protector. The strings do last longer using it.
#10
fast fret tends to build up on the board.

i use elixers on my acoustics. never had a problem with them.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011
#11
Sorry for the late reply. Im using D Addiros(sp error). My buzzing is on the low E 1st fret and sometimes on my G string.
Yep. It snapped at the saddles.
#12
first fret buzzing usually means u need more bend in ur neck.
i can talk u thru an adjustment if u want.

as for the strings snapping. that can happen with starter guitars. try to feel for rough edges that u can smooth out and lube. but keep in mind that you might just need a new set of saddles.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011
#14
first fret buzzing usually means u need more bend in ur neck


Sorry, but I have to disagree. First fret buzzing is more likely to be caused by the nut slots being too deep. Not enough back bow or overall action set too low will buzz further up the neck, anywhere really but usually around the octave.

If you're not comfortable working on your guitar take it to a good repair guy. Ask around, some of the players in your area should know who is good and who is not. Strings breaking at the bridge means burrs or sharp corners on the saddles, I've had to repair a bunch of them. A jewelers file or some 400-600 grit sandpaper, folded, will cure it, go easy though, it won't need much. I prefer sandpaper.

To check nut slot height:

Fret the top or bottom string at the 3rd fret. Check string clearance at the 1st fret with a feeler gauge. (auto parts stores have them) Clearance at 1st fret should be .006 to .011. When you feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge between string and fret, that feeler gauge is your clearance. That's American thousandths, not metric...I try for .008 to .010. Too low, and it will buzz, too high and you pull the strings too hard and the notes go sharp, and it's hard to play. Have a competent tech do this, nut files cost around $150 and it's very easy to file too deep and scrap the nut entirely. Then you have to either shim it or replace it.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
#15
i play funk and do preety much the same stuff as you and mine do not rip easy.and belive me i and hitting those mofo's.i think change your string gauge to .10's, and change your saddles.
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#16
^can be a low nut too, that;s why i always have them check the bend before adjustment.
when i say "usually means" im just giving a starting point in getting rid of the buzz.



a neck adjustment is simple as compared to a nut cut adjustment.
and can compensate for a low cut nut when it's the first few frets buzzing.

ull see on this site, especially in this section, it's best to go for the most simple fix first.

if he found that the string was touching at the middle frets after an adjustment, more neck bend could help him clear the first few frets.

if That still didnt help, then i would suggest he slip a bit of paper under the cut in the nut, or change string gauge, to see if that stopped the buzzing.

if it did, then he could build up the cut or swap it out.

one file would cost more than his whole guitar.

thread starter i suggest u fret the Low E 1st fret, at the same time,
fret the low E last fret, where the neck and body meet.

now look at the middle frets, around 7-9th frets.

is the string touching the fretwire there?

measure and repost.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011