#3
Have you played this guitar yet? For the money you are going to spend, you should probably go to a store and find one in this range that you can play to see if you like it. Look at the top of this forum to give you some more ideas.
#4
No I have played a couple of my friends acoustic electric guitars and I really like the instrument.

I play bass and have been wanting to buy a acoustic for a while now.
#5
Mate this is a bit of a useless response but I'm sure a lot of people on the board will agree with me.

For a start, don't buy a guitar online unless you've played it elsewhere first. Never buy a guitar you havn't played is the biggest rule methinks.

Also, the reviews on that website are a bit funny. Taylor guitars retail at $3000 for a reason. I don't think that a $199 will match the sound at all. In fact I'd put money on the fact it'd sound like crap. If they're guitar sounded that good, why is it that cheap.

Nothing about it suggests quality, neither the back or sides are solid etc etc. It just looks a little dodgy. Wouldn't trust thoses reviews in the slightest.

Get out there and try some.
#6
Damn, So it looks like bad quality?

I was guessing since its a new company they were trying to make a name for themselfs by charging less for there guitars...guess not.
#7
Well I don't know what the build quality will be like but specification wise no it is not a good quality guitar.

You want something with at least a solid top. The guitar you showed has a laminate top. In fact its 5 ply. Means its made of thin layers of wood as opposed to one solid layer. Not good.

Also it says that without binding, acoustic guitars just fall apart. That is the biggest load of crap I've ever read!

Don't get it, go to some shops and try some out.
Last edited by ClaptonWannabe at Sep 27, 2007,
#8
Ok problem, I went to a guitar store and tried a few...

The problem is I dont know whats suppose to feel right or anything like that being that I cant even play...so that makes it hard to test it out really...

How is this one, its a bit over my budget but people say in the reviews that it sounds good without a amp so I can always buy one of those later.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Ibanez-Talman-TCM50-AcousticElectric-Guitar?sku=519726&src=3WDTWXX

or

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Ibanez-AEL20E-AcousticElectric-Guitar-with-Onboard-Tuner?sku=519998X
Last edited by spardasieg at Sep 30, 2007,
#10
Its very very difficult to judge a guitar just by looking at its specs. In fact unless theres someone who has the exact guitar and is an experienced player it is absolutely impossible. I know its difficult but you HAVE to try them out and see how you like them in a shop. Since you had trouble last time here is a segment from the FAQ about how to choose an acoustic;

There Are Three Basic Sizes

Parlor(000)- Parlour guitars are narrow at the shoulders, narrow at the waist, and conspicuously smaller than the other styles of acoustic guitars.. Their diminutive size means the sound is "weaker" as well. However parlour guitars are often noted for their velvety tone, and many people find the size and shape easier to handle. Parlours were popular with many early blues players, and are still the axe of choice among many fingerstyle players.

Dreadnaught- Dreadnoughts are probably the most popular style of acoustic guitars because of their versatility. Their big bodies and strong sound make them popular with everyone from "Kumbaya" strummers to unplugged rockers to flat-picking country kickers. Dreadnoughts have square shoulders on the upper and lower bouts, and are fairly wide at the waist. They project a loud, full sound when strummed or picked.

Jumbo- Jumbo acoustics have gained more fans in recent years, reviving a size popular in jazz's pre-electric days. Slope-shouldered and narrow-waisted, jumbos feature a lot of body behind the bridge, which gives these guitars a nice boost on the bottom end and a big, round tone. A well-made jumbo can project almost as strongly as a dreadnought and still have the warmth and evenness of a concert acoustic.



Acoustic Guitar Buyers Guide


As we all know, even though you, the first time guitar buyer might not, there is no 'best guitar' to buy. Everyone has different tastes, according to sound and feel. The helpful and informed members of UG have helped compile this guide to picking your first (or second, of third) acoustic guitar. This should help you decide on your own which guitar you want. Chances are, if you pick it out yourself, you will be happier with your purchase. Just try to follow these few simple rules.

~First and most important! GO TO THE GUITAR STORE! While your there be prepared to play a lot of guitars. Start at one end of the rack and pick up each and every guitar you can afford. Cosmetics are not the most important thing, but they matter to many. Just ignore them for now. Pick up each guitar and give them a strum (you don?t need to know any chords, just play the strings).

~If you like the way the guitar sounds, take the time to look it over. Make sure the action is playable (action is the distance of the strings off the fretboard. If it is too high, then the guitar is harder to play and you will have less fun playing it, this can be especially frustrating for an aspiring rock star). If there are any blemishes on the finish that will not affect the playability or sound, keep track of them. Fret each note on each string to check for buzzing and sharp, poorly applied for frets. You might be able to use them to haggle with the guitar store for a lower price than what is originally on the price tag.

~DO THIS FOR EVERY GUITAR YOU LIKE! MAKE SURE TO PLAY EVERY SINGLE ONE!

~After you find the one you like the most, (sound, playability, finish, etc.) Take a closer look at the guitar and look, or even ask about each one of the following things?

~What's the bracing pattern?

~Are the braces scalloped or not?

~Is the finish on the guitar in good shape?

~Can I see any imperfections in it anywhere?

~Is it a solid top... Spruce, Cedar or God knows what?

~What's the grain on the top look like... is it close grained? Wide open or wormwood?

~Is the binding in good shape and meeting all points of the body and neck?

~Is there a lot of glue visible inside the guitar?

~Does it smell like a child's chemistry set or does it smell like wood?

~How good are the tuning machines? What's the turning ratio? I prefer 16/1 or higher. My favorites are 20/1 but they're hard to find... so I usually get 18/1 tuners.

~What's the materials used for the nut & saddle?

~What type of wood is used for the fretboard?

~What are the back and sides made from? Are they laminates or solid? (For more information on woods there is a brief explanation further on)

~How is the neck attached to the body?

~ Is the inside of the body dusty?... Does it have a few wood chips or sawdust in it? Spider webs? (yes I've seen spider webs in a guitar or two in my time). Any of this means one of three things. Either the guitar is poorly constructed, the quality control is very poor, or other (possibly more experienced) guitarists have looked at and passed over that particular guitar for usually a very good reason... although this could lead you into a greatly reduced price. If you like the guitar and everything else checks out, don't "chuck this one out" for these reasons alone.

~How much does it cost and what comes with it if I buy it from this store right now? A hardshell case? A few sets of strings and some picks? A free setup? What do I get for "free" if I buy it right now?


For playability, you want to check for a low (enough) action, a smooth neck which doesn't make your hand stick, a fretboard and neck which fits your hand nicely etc. I.e. it should be easy to play.

For sound, look for a clear, deep bass which isn't too boomy and overpowering, and a bright treble which isn't twangy. In essence, find a guitar which sounds good.

If you can't play anything whatsoever then ask one of the store workers to come over and play something for you on one you like the look and sound of (if you can play anything at all). Ask them to play some chords, some fingerstyle etc. Is the sound evely balanced? Is it tinny and nasty etc? Would you want to sound like that?

Different types of woods give different sounds, here is a breakdown from that same thread;

A Brief Outline of Tonewoods...

Back And Sides....

BRAZILIAN ROSEWOOD

A highly sought after tonewood for its beauty and sound. It is not noticably different tonally from Other Rosewoods, but is more expensive and rarer purely based on its look.

EAST INDIAN ROSEWOOD

A beautiful coffee colored tonewood, it is sought after for its color, which ranges from brown to purple to rose to black, and its tonal charactaristics include a strong bass response and long sustain. it is the most populer tonewood for acoustic guitars.

MAHOGANY

A readily available wood that is a populer wood to use to make necks. It produces a bright clear tone. It is similar to Koa in its ability to add snap and sparkle to the instrument.

HAWAIIAN KOA

A very rare amd expensive wood, it is only found between 300 and 7000 foot elevations on Hawaii's major islands. It is expensive mostly because of its scarcity (like precious metals) but it is also a very aestheticly good looking wood. The tone is a cross between maple and rosewood,

BIG LEAF MAPLE

Maple produces a clear, bright, compressed, balanced tone capable of cutting through the mix in an ensemble making it a favorite on stage and in the studio. It is one of the favored woods for jazz guitars, because of the bright, dry tone, very different from Rosewood.

CLARO WALNUT

Produces a deep, "compressed" tone and a lot of volume, similar in that respect to rosewood.

TOPWOODS

ENGELMANN SPRUCE

Because its stiffness and weight differ from that of Sitka spruce, Engelmann soundboards produce a smoother, slightly mellower tone, one that many players describe as "more mature."

SITKA SPRUCE


This dense, straight-grained wood has the highest strength and elasticity-to-weight ratio among available tonewoods, an attribute that makes it an ideal material not only for our soundboards, but for our internal bracing, as well. Sitka produces a slightly brighter tone than does Engelmann.

WESTERN RED CEDAR

Has been used for decades as a soundboard material on classical guitars, and it's becoming popular among steel-string enthusiasts, as well. Cedar is a "soft" wood known for producing a "warm," mellow tone. We use Cedar specifically for our fingerstyle instruments as it responds quickly and with good volume to a light attack. It is also very well suited to open or lowered tension tunings as they require the same qualitites for good separation and definition


I should really just have given you a link to the thread hehe, but I've done the work now!

Hope it helps.
Last edited by ClaptonWannabe at Sep 30, 2007,
#11
Thanks a lot!

im going to guitar center soon, only ever been to the one in jersey, but im going to the one in the city(no car now) Wonder if that ones as big and nice.

i'll bring a friend that knows how to play one, thanks though.
#12
Did you ever get the guitar? I'm looking at getting one. One thing I wanted to say is that it says the top is spruce, not 5-ply... it says the bindings are 5-ply....

Who knows? When I get it, I'll let you guys know....

Whats there to lose? I can always send it back