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#1
I just picked up one of these little buggers yesterday at GC.



Already swapped around the Epiphone logo and the chassis! Couldn't resist...

I got a newer version 3/2b one, and I've been poking around these and some other forums for information on modding them. I think I know what I want to do, but I'm not sure how! I'd like to add the following mods:

Have a High/Low input toggle (or two inputs?). I hear these have older fender-style input impediance, and that there's an R1 or R2 mod for making it a more modern, higher impediance input, and I'd like to do that, with the option of going from one to the other (or having two).

Have a dark/normal/bright 3 way toggle. Not sure where in the signal path inside the amp this would go, but it would be neat. I'd need a 3 way toggle with 6 contacts on the bottom, right? Mabye?

Have a gain toggle to raise the gain moderatly (although not excessivly). I've heard of lots of mods that up the gain, and I'd like to go from stock to upped and back to stock with a two way toggle.

Now, I'm not huge on electronics, so I might be overly confused if somone replies with "r1 u68k, and you're there". I'll have a number of other questions along the way, so bear with me guys, if you could. Kerry, if you're around, I'm sure you could be of great help.

Another related question, while I'm thinking about it...I have a local radioshack, but that's the only place I can think of that would sell capasitors and stuff. Is there a better place online, or does the shipping make it not worth it?
#2
i'll try to make this painless as possible...

Have a High/Low input toggle (or two inputs?). I hear these have older fender-style input impediance, and that there's an R1 or R2 mod for making it a more modern, higher impediance input, and I'd like to do that, with the option of going from one to the other (or having two).

this isnt too bad, i'd say add a jack to the panel, just because its a little nicer than a switch, makes your amp look higher class really, like the giant 4 input marshal verity


Have a dark/normal/bright 3 way toggle. Not sure where in the signal path inside the amp this would go, but it would be neat. I'd need a 3 way toggle with 6 contacts on the bottom, right? Mabye?

you would put it either in between preamp stages or after the final one, its your call, they'll both sound different. as for the switch, you would need a latching on-on-on toggle.


Have a gain toggle to raise the gain moderatly (although not excessivly). I've heard of lots of mods that up the gain, and I'd like to go from stock to upped and back to stock with a two way toggle.

to give it more gain you can raise the value of the signal bleed resistors (the ones that go from the signal path to ground) not by much really, double is plenty. the switch is going to be an on-on latching toggle, you can get them about everywhere.

Now, I'm not huge on electronics, so I might be overly confused if somone replies with "r1 u68k, and you're there". I'll have a number of other questions along the way, so bear with me guys, if you could. Kerry, if you're around, I'm sure you could be of great help.

i couldnt agree more, technical terms mean nothing to those who arent technical

Another related question, while I'm thinking about it...I have a local radioshack, but that's the only place I can think of that would sell capasitors and stuff. Is there a better place online, or does the shipping make it not worth it?

www.smallbearelec.com will have all of those parts at about radioshacks price, and radioshack doesnt have alot of parts anymore...
#3
Quote by sempri_fi
to give it more gain you can raise the value of the signal bleed resistors (the ones that go from the signal path to ground) not by much really, double is plenty. the switch is going to be an on-on latching toggle, you can get them about everywhere.


That would result in less gain in the VJ. You want to lower the value of R6 for more gain, stock its 1M. A lot of people including myself leave the 1M in there and then install a switch that will jumper R6 or leave it a 1M. Here's a quick diagram.

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You'll just need an SPDT or SPST switch for it.

Radio Shack should have most of the parts, don't count on it though. I like to shop at either Small Bear or The Tube Depot for my parts online (tubedepot.com).
#4
to amke it modern change the r1 to 1m ohms and change the r2 two 22k ohms, i just did these to mine, plus for the bright switch ( also did) you puta 100 pf cap around r6( i tihnk mayb)
Last edited by mercinariesgtr at Oct 3, 2007,
#6
Thanks sempri fi and Whole Lotta Led. I think I can do the gain switch now, I'll just have to get parts.

Anyone have any ideas on what I'd need for the dark/normal/bright mod? I'm not really sure where that mod would go in the signal path.

Any ideas?

Also, how would you wire up two seperate inputs with different impediances?
#7
Most people use R6 for the bright switch or in your case bright/normal/dark. If your confused about the "R6" if you have a look at the PCB you'll see all the parts all labeled.

disregard my idea for the bright/normal/dark switch, read coke's.

You could always opt for a tone control instead of the switch, that's what I did. Things might get crowded at R6!

Give me a moment for the input thing, my brain is really slow today.
Last edited by Whole Lotta Led at Nov 2, 2007,
#8
Sweet ideas. Anybody care to answer some questions on the VJ components?

1) What would changing the 1.5k resistor in front of V2 do?
2) Lowering the signal resistors results in more gain, right?
3) What effect would jumpering R6 totally and reducing R7 to 100k have?
The Laney Thread are big and clever. No exceptions.
#9
1) Raise the gain going into the power section.
2) As long as they're directly in the signal path, like R6, yes. If they're going to ground, you'd raise them for more gain. On the cathodes, lowering it increases the gain of that tube.
3) Mucho gain.

Whole Lotta Led: You'd want to have a cap going to ground for the dark switch, so that you roll off some treble. I'd say that an SPDT on/off/on toggle would work for that. One side of a 100 pf cap would be hooked to the middle, then the other side would be attached to R6 on whichever side you like. Then one outer lug of the SPDT would go to ground, the other outer lug would go to the side of R6 without the cap attaching to it. Then middle would be stock tone, one side would be dark, and the other would be bright.
Last edited by cokeisbetter at Oct 4, 2007,
#10
Hmm, I suppose that would work. Would my way work though? I just took the typical wiring for the bright switch, and added a cap for more darkness/bass whatever. Flipped up or down it would either be the darkness or bright (depending on how you wired it) and in the middle it would be stock. I kind of firgured the 4dpt was like two spst's together, with the middle being off. Maybe I'm way off
Last edited by Whole Lotta Led at Oct 4, 2007,
#11
^ Yeah, that's kinda off. With your switching scheme, you'd go from a bit bright (100 pf) to such a large value that bass would start coming through, making your tone just a bit tighter, I suppose. It wouldn't be a dark switch, though, cos treble would be coming through the cap without much resistance. More of a gain switch? Dunno, it depends on how big your value is.
#12
I have been eyeballing the VJ for six months. This just feeds the fire! lol

I have a Boss OD-20 Drive Zone. How do you guys, that have the VJ, think it would sound with this pedal?

Chris
#13
Quote by RCShadow
I have been eyeballing the VJ for six months.


Why haven't you bought it yet?
If you set aside a dollar a day since then you'd have more than enough by now.
Main gear (For complete list, see profile):
Epiphone Les Paul Standard Plain-top
Basswood Telecaster, 2 single-sized HB's, both split.
Epiphone Valve Junior
B-52 AT-412 Cabinet
Oh, and I have a Squier VM Jazz Bass too.
#14
Quote by the.spine.surfs
Already swapped around the Epiphone logo and the chassis! Couldn't resist...

i might be misunderstanding this.. but no, you mirrored the pic
I like analogue Solid State amps that make no effort to be "tube-like", and I'm proud of it...

...A little too proud, to be honest.
#15
Quote by Blompcube
i might be misunderstanding this.. but no, you mirrored the pic


Jeh... are you a lefty?
"I never liked those Deep Purples or those sort of things. I always hated it. I always thought it was a poor man’s Led Zeppelin"
// Angus Young

+1
#16
Quote by rafarquhar
Why haven't you bought it yet?
If you set aside a dollar a day since then you'd have more than enough by now.


Well, more than having the $129 (lol), I read a few threads about how it might not be well suited to some styles of playing so I have been dragging my feet about it, hence, my question. Course, I guess with all the mods that can be done I guess it doesn't really matter.

Chris
#17
Quote by Thewolf_and_man
Jeh... are you a lefty?

yes and no. i play guitar right handed. but this pic is mirrored... look at how it says "roinuj evlav". i got the impression he was saying he reversed the epiphone logo and the control panel when actually its just a mirror image, but i probably misinterpreted it.
I like analogue Solid State amps that make no effort to be "tube-like", and I'm proud of it...

...A little too proud, to be honest.
#18
^ Haha, okey
"I never liked those Deep Purples or those sort of things. I always hated it. I always thought it was a poor man’s Led Zeppelin"
// Angus Young

+1
#19
Quote by Blompcube
i might be misunderstanding this.. but no, you mirrored the pic

I actually meant that I moved the logo to the back when I spun the chassis inside the enclosure, but I mirriored the pic too (my only camera is the one on my laptop, and it mirriors all pictures)

Anywho, I think I'll be heading to Radioshack today...I should look for a parts list like this:

1 1/4" mono jack
1 SPDT 2 way switch
1 4PDT on/off/on 3 way switch
1 100pF-50pF cap (bright mod)
1 other cap for dark mod (?)
Solder and extra caps in case i melt a few.

Wish me luck!
Last edited by the.spine.surfs at Oct 5, 2007,
#20
Quote by cokeisbetter
1) Raise the gain going into the power section.
2) As long as they're directly in the signal path, like R6, yes. If they're going to ground, you'd raise them for more gain. On the cathodes, lowering it increases the gain of that tube.
3) Mucho gain.

Whole Lotta Led: You'd want to have a cap going to ground for the dark switch, so that you roll off some treble. I'd say that an SPDT on/off/on toggle would work for that. One side of a 100 pf cap would be hooked to the middle, then the other side would be attached to R6 on whichever side you like. Then one outer lug of the SPDT would go to ground, the other outer lug would go to the side of R6 without the cap attaching to it. Then middle would be stock tone, one side would be dark, and the other would be bright.

This is what you need for the bright/stock/dark mod, not the 4PDT. One 100pf cap, and the SPDT.
#21
Alright, I just got the SPDT switch for the gain mod, and I'm pulling it apart as I type. Pics later, if I can borrow a real camera!
#22
Gain mod done. Save the drillig a hole in the front panel and labeling the switch. Right now it's just rigged to hang there, but I'll get on it. Sounds GREAT, in my honest opinion. with the volume at around 10-12 o'clock and some Bad Monkey in the mix (mostly using it as a clean boost, with just a touch a gain) I get a deliciously narsty garage rock tone going, with some serious top end bite. I can't wait to borrow a Dremel and get the switch bolted in.
#23
^did u do any of the vox/fender/marshall mods yet? sorry i didn't read the whole thread.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


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#24
Quote by ECistheBest
^did u do any of the vox/fender/marshall mods yet? sorry i didn't read the whole thread.

Nope, the gain switch was my first one, and I just did it earlier today. I'm not crazy about the vox/fender/marshall mods, 'cause I like the sound of the VJ as it is, really. If I had another, though, I'd definitally make it Voxey.
#25
i want one with the gain mod, bright switch, and voxy mod. i have a treble booster i want to run in front, and i'd get an alnico speaker with a cab if i can do all that.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


UG's Best DIY PedalBoard
#26
Glad the gain switch went well!

I'm curious to hear how the bright/normal/dark setup works out for you.
#27
When i start university next year, on my course *sound design* you can make a amplifier for your final project. Another student last year made his own analog synth with a working valve and filters etc. I'm very tempted to buy a valve junior and mod it into my own amp for it. Any one reckon it would be possible to mod it into a decent metal amp bedroom? I know it would be a lot of work, but I'l be using the university's facilities.
#28
I've heard of people using a 6V6 in the output stage, so I guess that + increased gain from the preamp + component value changes + maybe even a new preamp tube would get you there.
#29
Quote by cokeisbetter
I've heard of people using a 6V6 in the output stage, so I guess that + increased gain from the preamp + component value changes + maybe even a new preamp tube would get you there.
The change to 6V6 is really easy, doesn't need component changes, just rewiring for an octal socket.
The Laney Thread are big and clever. No exceptions.
#30
Quote by Whole Lotta Led
Glad the gain switch went well!

I'm curious to hear how the bright/normal/dark setup works out for you.

I'm curious too! I'll have to get a hold of a switch for that, as the Radioshack didn't have one (surprise.)

Another question, the two inputs dealie...I'm not sure how that would be wired. There's a small printed board attached to the jack on the inside of the chassis on my VJ, and I sure don't know where to buy a jack with a printed board. Is the seccond, "high" impediance jack harder to wire, or am I over analyzing?
#31
^ They didn't have SPDTs? I hate Radioshack sometimes.

And to be honest, I don't think that the low impedance input is needed at all. I'd say just mod it permanently to a high impedance input.
Quote by MrCarrot
The change to 6V6 is really easy, doesn't need component changes, just rewiring for an octal socket.

Yeah, but for if you're going for a total metal-monster amp, you'll need some changes.
#32
Bloody Radioshack.

I have bigger fish to fry...I appeared to have killed the poor VJ. I tried jumpering R7, but when I cut it on, no sound. Correction: sound, but just generic, ultra faint hissing. I plugged in my Destroyer, nothing. i touched the cord to stuff, no popping static noises. I cut the volume up and down, no affect (the hissing isn't even louder). Help?
#33
You CAN'T jumper R7 or you'll get what's happening right now. Either completely remove it or put in a fixed value.
#36
Quote by Whole Lotta Led
You CAN'T jumper R7 or you'll get what's happening right now. Either completely remove it or put in a fixed value.

if that's it, can't you put a variable resistor in series with the fixed value?
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


UG's Best DIY PedalBoard
#37
If you wanted to, yeah, but IMO it's not worth adding another hole for (if you'd be putting in a pot).
#38
Right! Open her up again, I will. I was thinking that you could cut the bugger out, or it would break the signal chain, so I jumpered it. Out she goes!
#39
Yes! Much better. But it dosn't strike me as very much gainier. Is the higher impediance mod going to affect the gain? If not, what should I look for next, an octal socket and a 6v6 tube? I don't want Metallica here, but I'd like to hit a little more grit before noon on the volume dial.
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