hey ive got a lag spring acoustic and my dad has a crafter acoustic. i much prefer the action on my fathers guitar to mine and was wondering if it was possible to lower the action on an acoustic? i know its possible on an electric just not to sure about acoustic
Quote by .arkness:.
I did it in the church confession booth. i jizzed all over the mesh in an attempt to hit the priest.
you can sand the saddle and nut down, but this should be done really carefully to avoid going too low, possibly causing the strings to ring impurely.

just remove your strings and saddle/nut, and sand them down just a little, and put the strings back on and in tune to see if the result is desirable.
sounds abit risky, il probubly take it in to a shop. anyone have any ideas of how much it would cost? im in england of that helps
Quote by .arkness:.
I did it in the church confession booth. i jizzed all over the mesh in an attempt to hit the priest.
60 bucks here for a set up here, so 30 or 40 pounds perhaps?

Partscaster/Tele into a bunch of pedals, a Maz 18 head, and a Z Best cab.
It really isn't risky at all if you do it with patience, taking it to the store can get ridiculously costly as it may take some time to do... and if you screw up you can always get new saddles/nuts from any guitar store. But as always, pros are pros, and if you don't know what you're doing and don't trust your own hands at all it can be a bitch
Lowering the action is not terribly hard, but it is a time to test your nerves the first time you do it!

There are some really good how-to articles on the internet concerning action adjustments on acoustics. One of the better ones is on the Taylor Guitars site.

Basically you look at the action at the 1st and 12th frets and determine how much you need to lower the action at the 12th fret. You then remove the bone (or whatever yours is made of) insert that is in the bridge (this is the saddle) and sand the BOTTOM of the saddle until it is reduced enough to bring the action to where you want it.

Theoretically, since the 12th fret is at the half-way point of the string you should have to remove TWICE the amount from the saddle as the amount you wish to lower the string at the 12th fret. (ie, to lower by 1/64" you would have to remove 1/32" from the bottom of the saddle.)

BE CAREFUL to keep the bottom of the saddle flat, especially if you have a piezo pickup beneath it. Please see the articles on the internet for detailed instructions. (Many of them even have very good pictures of the process.) And WORK SLOW!!

As it has been said - replacements are easily available. My first attempt was on my brand new Taylor 110E that was a present from my family. I bought a NEW tusq replacement and sanded that one. That way I could always just put the original back into the bridge to return it to factory (which on many 110E's is WAY TOO HIGH!)

Unless the action at the NUT is MEASURED to be high I would say don't mess with it. For most nuts you have to do some tapping on them to break glue joints and you should score around the bottom of the nut to release it from the finish if necessary.

Also, if you have a truss rod (don't forget to look at the soundhole end of the neck) try doing the adjustments as described for the rod.

In general the searches you should do are for the following:
Look at the technical documents on the Taylor site - they're quite good.
adjusting truss rod
adjusting guitar action
nut action

I hope this helps
Last edited by OldFingerpicker at Nov 13, 2007,
Do NOT mess about with the truss rod unless you know what you are doing. Truss rods are NOT for lowering action.

The idea of just buying a cheap saddle and sanding it down to the level you want while keeping your original sounds like sensible advice to me.