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#1
hey guys, i think i'm finally motivated enough to mod my blues driver, using keeley specs as a guide. so far i'm completely inexperienced with modding pedals, but i think i know enough background to get started.

i need to get a soldering iron, as i bought a soldering gun a while back, and its wattage and size is just not practical.

and i need something to practice on before i hit the blues driver right?

pics will be in here, because i'm gonna need as much help as i can get haha.

anyway, to the pedal:
Quote by keeley site
D3 Change this 1SS133 to a different (1N4002) diode for asymmetrical clipping. This adds second order harmonics. This adds to the tube type sound. I like the sound of this change.

D7 D8 D9 and D10 Change 2 of of these diodes from 1SS133 to a single 1N4002. More second order harmonic distortion. Although the change is slight, I like it. We actually take out one of the two pairs and replace it with a single 1N4001.

C1, C7, C6, C12, C13, and C15 Change this electrolytic capacitor to a 10uF Non-polarized caps. Non-polarized caps sound better . I like these anywhere there is signal coupling at this high a value.

C14 Increase input coupling capacitor value to 0.1uF for increased bass response from your guitar.

C100 Here is where we can affect the tone control. I prefer a little more lower-midrange and bass frequencies through the tone section. You can increase the lower frequencies by increasing the capacitor value to 0.033uF. Install a switch to add a 0.068uF cap in parallel with this value for the Phat Mode!

Most of the ceramic caps are changed to Expensive Silver Mica (available through Small Bear Electronics www.smallbearelec.com or www.mouser.com or www.digiley.com). This is what makes our mod sound so good. A noticeable reduction in noise. An increase in the smoothness and no harshness left.


so basically:

D3 Change 1SS133 to 1N4002 diode. (+1 diode)

D7 D8 D9 and D10 Change 2 diodes from 1SS133 to a single 1N4002 or take out one of the two pairs and replace it with a single 1N4001. (+1 diode)

C1, C7, C6, C12, C13, and C15 change to 10uF tantalum caps. (+6 caps)

C14 Increase input coupling capacitor value to 0.1uF for increased bass response from your guitar. (+1 cap)

C100 increasing the capacitor value to 0.033uF. (+1 cap)

questions:
"Ceramic caps are changed to Expensive Silver Mica" which caps are ceramic, and what options for the tantalum caps do i choose frommouser?
and i think i could get the rest of the caps and diodes from smallbear.

phew, this should be fun
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
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Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
Last edited by UnsignedRecords at Dec 2, 2007,
#2
I modded my ts9 and had had say approx 12-15 previous soldering experiences with electronic solder. It's a bit of an acquired skill, but very easy.

Do yourself a favour and buy a ring stand for the pencil type iron you get. Make sure the stand's one with a piece of foam in a dish. You really need that to keep your iron clean and well tinned for all of the points you do. (crucial)

Here's what i know:

1. When soldering, every step should be dealt with using clean, tinned(light pre-coating of solder) surfaces. The tinning of wires and contact points makes for a good positive joint.

2. Copper braid used in the removal of existing solder. Always use a clean end and nip it off with sidecutters as you use it. Be liberal; it's cheap.

3. Clean your tip of your iron regularily (every 2 or 3 joints) and tin it before use.

4. When soldering a joint, after you melt the proper amount of solder onto the joint, pull the solder away from the area, and hold the iron onto the pool of solder for about 1 to 1.5 seconds longer and then pull it away.*, **

*Done properly you'll actually see the entire pool of solder go from "chrome" then sort of wisp to grey in a kind of wave. If you see it; you've most likely got a perfect joint.

**If the entire solder pool wasn't liquid all at once, it'll cause what's called a "cold solder" which may be crackly, noisy, or not function. In some case's you'll even see a crack, or uneven line in the solder. If this happens, revert to step 4.Melt it down again.

5. Be careful not to overheat components either. If the existing pool doesn't want to start melting when you're removing components; chances are your iron tip is either dirty and/ or not tinned enough.

Adding a tiny bit of solder to an existing pool is a good way to "coax" it into melting.

You'll know exactly what I'm talking about shortly

Good luck with your project.
82 Ibanez artist ar105
94 Fender MIJ 72 tele custom reissue
04 prs se soapbar singlecut
97 Simon & Patrick pro flame maple
05 Art & Lutherie cedar 12
Custom Strat

68 Fender Super Reverb
78 Traynor TS200
80's Roland Cube20
Last edited by Guitarminator at Nov 27, 2007,
#3
After 15 mintutes of just picking up the soldering iron I was already moddnig my wah it was a complete success so it isnt a very hard skill and also do you have any desoldering braid.
#4
Nope, I think I've got about 14 inches of the stuff left lol but go to any electronic store. Plunger type spring loaded suckers are great for doing larger things like pots, switches. They're about 5-6 bucks....worth having around if you see it get one of those too.
82 Ibanez artist ar105
94 Fender MIJ 72 tele custom reissue
04 prs se soapbar singlecut
97 Simon & Patrick pro flame maple
05 Art & Lutherie cedar 12
Custom Strat

68 Fender Super Reverb
78 Traynor TS200
80's Roland Cube20
Last edited by Guitarminator at Nov 27, 2007,
#5
alright, thanks a lot. i had to cut my post up into sections and edit it in, and the last section took about an hour for the page to load (basically my computer froze), sorry haha.

uhm, so i think i should start off with a list of supplies?

soldering iron (wattage? brand/model?)
desoldering (copper?) braid
wire cutters (to cut off used section of braid?)

sweet.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#6
Go for a 30-40w pencil soldering iron. I got a 46w Goot Pencil, but it's temperature controlled and was around $50AU.
For soldering braid, get one that's around 2mm thick, thinner and you use too much, thicker and it doesn't heat up quick enough.
Just a small pair of wire cutters is all you need, nothing fancy. They also work wonders for trimming component leads.
"Everybody, one day will die and be forgotten. Act and behave in a way that will make life interesting and fun. Find a passion, form relationships, don't be afraid to get out there and fuck what everyone else thinks."
#7
cool thanks
i'm gonna see if i can make a trip to radio shack or some hardware store to get these.

i'm looking at the solder pads on the bottom of the board, how can i tell which pad belongs to its component
i'm gonna have to go with learning to read schems huh...
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#8
Well, you could go all technological and take a picture of the track side and a picture of the component side, flip one horizontally and superimpose it on the other image. That's too much effort for me though I just looked for 'landmarks' (eg. transistors, IC's, etc) that I could use to find out where I was up to on the bottom of the PCB.
"Everybody, one day will die and be forgotten. Act and behave in a way that will make life interesting and fun. Find a passion, form relationships, don't be afraid to get out there and fuck what everyone else thinks."
Last edited by the_random_hero at Nov 27, 2007,
#9
hahah that is true. i like that idea, but definitely a lotta work

i did figure out where a couple of them were, mainly D3, and i suppose it'd help getting more familiar with the uh shapes and stuff that the components make...
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#10
i've taken my board out, mostly, and found all the components i'm going to replace. it was a little tricky finding some of the caps, as their labels on the board tended to be hidden.

anyway, picture time.

here's D3, going to be swapped out for a 1N4002 diode.


here's D8 and D10, where both are going to be removed and replaced with only one 1N4002 diode.


i'm a little confused on where to get the right 10uF non-polarized cap values for these, by the way.

C1


C6


C7


C12


C13


C15



C14 raised to 0.1uF for better bass response.


and C100 on the tone control for uh, more bass frequencies, increase to 0.033uF.



still need to get an iron, braid, and basically everything else at this point. juts a little lost concerning getting the right cap values, since i don't think smallbear has them.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
Last edited by UnsignedRecords at Dec 2, 2007,
#11
wait what caps do you need? non-polarized electrolytes? or just non-polarized, say regular caps?

Whodicted



Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
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#12
hmm, according to the site, yeah, non-polarized electrolytic caps. and then the smaller value caps are regular/silver mica i suppose.

edit: wrongooo, wow disregard that last thing. keeley changes the electrolytic caps TO non-polarized caps. i'm still learning, and just realized there's no such thing as non-polarized electrolytic caps
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
Last edited by UnsignedRecords at Dec 1, 2007,
#13
^there is, but theyre ****en hard to get...and expensive

Whodicted



Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
france is laaaaame


Recognized by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2009
#15
i guess those are the ones...damn i wanted one for my clyde build (it uses a 4.7uF non-polarized one) and it was like 8 bucks or something

Whodicted



Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
france is laaaaame


Recognized by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2009
#16
dayum.

this is hard, i can't find the right values
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#17
im too

Whodicted



Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
france is laaaaame


Recognized by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2009
#18
You want tantalums. Smallbear sells them, I think they are 70 cents each or something.

No "Phat Mod"? It is just a switch to selct either a 0.033mF or a 0.068 capMF on C100.

Whats that broken white wire in the C100 pic? Be careful with boss pedal the offboard wiring ios weak.
#21
^i know, i looked for them after you said that...no need to make a big deal out of it

Whodicted



Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
france is laaaaame


Recognized by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2009
#22
^ ooh thanks you
that's for all except C14 and C100?

^^ eh, i'm weary about drilling, so i'm just swapping the one cap. i might install a switch after i see how these mods go.

and i think the white wire is the ground wire coming from the tone control. i could be wrong though
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#24
just to avoid confusion (in my head), 0.1uf = 10mf? because then the C14 is fine. but then i need 10uF caps i think.
the big group of caps that needs changing seems to be kinda hard to figure out.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#26
oh really? thanks. i thought the m was like "milli" and u was millionth.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#28
damn, he changes all the caps huh? i'm really bad at reading

ceramic caps look like this?


because there's a lot of 'em ha.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#30
ah cool. well i count 9 of 'em, but what about their values? i see 471k, 101k, 221k, and 47k.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#32
ha, nope, definitely caps. look just like the pic, and are labeled on the board C20, C21, C29, etc.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#33
Capacitor Number Code:

A number code is often used on small capacitors where printing is difficult:

--the 1st number is the 1st digit,
--the 2nd number is the 2nd digit,
--the 3rd number is the number of zeros to give the capacitance in pF.
(Ignore any letters - they just indicate tolerance and voltage rating.)

For example: 102 means 1000pF = 1nF (not 102pF!)

For example: 472J means 4700pF = 4.7nF (J means 5% tolerance).
#34
how will i wire the 1n4001 in the D7, D8, D9, D10... which diode will i remove? If I remove d8 and d10, how will i wire the 1n4001 with d7 and d9 diodes... which diode will come first in the signal path
#35
^^ yeah i was reading up on that, it's like my reference guide, but i keep getting lost with it

^ i was thinking of just taking out d8 and d10 and putting in the 1N4001 in either d8's or d10's place. i dunno if it makes a big difference though.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#36
Quote by UnsignedRecords
^^ yeah i was reading up on that, it's like my reference guide, but i keep getting lost with it

^ i was thinking of just taking out d8 and d10 and putting in the 1N4001 in either d8's or d10's place. i dunno if it makes a big difference though.
where did keeley put the 1n4001 diode?
#37
i wish i knew haha. only useful thing i've found out by snooping around is which ceramic caps were replaced with silver mica caps.

Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#39
yeah, he changes out the five in the middle of the board, to silver mica, i believe. and leaves the three closer to the camera. but i dunno what that yellow cap is between the stock and the purple caps.

edit: ah nevermind, that one's stock. the ceramic i couldn't find was behind another cap. jebus
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
Last edited by UnsignedRecords at Dec 2, 2007,
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