#1
Ok. I'm picking up a strat neck soon. Its either gonna be from Warmoth or Musikraft.

Finish Questions:
1) Warmoth offers a satin lacquer finish that I am interested in since I like the feel of the satin polyurethane that is used on Fender necks. Would the lacquer feel the same as polyurethane finish?

2) Musikraft offers a tung oil finish. I've heard alot of good things about this finish and I am interested in trying it out but I have a few questions first. How does this finish feel for those of you who know? Sticky gloss type, satin, smooth glossy, raw wood feeling, etc?

3) The application process doesn't seem hard. Put on a coat or two, buff with steel wool, repeat until satisfied. I figure I will need to add coats since Musikraft only uses two coats. But I have heard that you need to add more coats over time. Is this true and if so how often does this need to be done? I wouldn't mind having to re-apply the tung oil as long as it protects the neck properly and plays nicely.

4) If I do go the tung oil route Musikraft has a food sealer/stabilizer that is free the minimum finish requirement for a warranty. I figure I can get this and save the $30 to do the tung oil treatment myself since its a full build anyway and I'd like the experience. So long story short would the wood sealer/stabilizer option interfere with the tung oil application process?

Wood choices:
1) Musikraft offers quarter sawn maple necks while Warmoth offers standard it seems. If the quarter sawn maple really is that big of a jump (only $30 extra) I'd buy from Musikraft and get them to finish it or I use the tung oil if I get good feedback on it.

Neck Contour:

1) I am looking for the measurements for the Fender Modern C shape neck profile. I am looking the make my neck as close as possible to that spec as it is the most comfortable Fender neck I have played to date.

I believe thats all the info I need. Thanks for any help.
-Denny
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#2
I have tung oil finish one one of my guitars and on my bass. A real raw wood feel, almost like no finish at all, I love it. It's so easy to do it's not worth paying anyone to do it.
#3
Quote by Kill Rockstar
I have tung oil finish one one of my guitars and on my bass. A real raw wood feel, almost like no finish at all, I love it. It's so easy to do it's not worth paying anyone to do it.

Thanks for the info. Thats gonna be a plus for the tung oil as I see it now.
-Denny
PRS Singlecut Trem

Member #2 of the Coheed and Cambria fanclub, PM dementedpuppy to join.
#4
Quote by OsirisProtocol
Ok. I'm picking up a strat neck soon. Its either gonna be from Warmoth or Musikraft.

Finish Questions:
1) Warmoth offers a satin lacquer finish that I am interested in since I like the feel of the satin polyurethane that is used on Fender necks. Would the lacquer feel the same as polyurethane finish?
i got musikraft's nitrocellulose clear gloss finish, and i like the feel. my hands aren't that sticky on most necks.

2) Musikraft offers a tung oil finish. I've heard alot of good things about this finish and I am interested in trying it out but I have a few questions first. How does this finish feel for those of you who know? Sticky gloss type, satin, smooth glossy, raw wood feeling, etc?
i haven't gotten around using a tung oil finished neck.

3) The application process doesn't seem hard. Put on a coat or two, buff with steel wool, repeat until satisfied. I figure I will need to add coats since Musikraft only uses two coats. But I have heard that you need to add more coats over time. Is this true and if so how often does this need to be done? I wouldn't mind having to re-apply the tung oil as long as it protects the neck properly and plays nicely.
one advantage that musikraft has over warmoth, is that they apply finish before they put on their frets. warmoth puts the frets on before they finish it, so they frets will feel sticky. if you do it urself, you'll have the sticky frets too. vibratos will be harder, so are bends. Musikraft also offers "Heavily rolled fingerboard edges" and "7.25-9.5" fingerboard radius", which are pretty awesome.

4) If I do go the tung oil route Musikraft has a food sealer/stabilizer that is free the minimum finish requirement for a warranty. I figure I can get this and save the $30 to do the tung oil treatment myself since its a full build anyway and I'd like the experience. So long story short would the wood sealer/stabilizer option interfere with the tung oil application process?
it shouldn't as far as i know.

Wood choices:
1) Musikraft offers quarter sawn maple necks while Warmoth offers standard it seems. If the quarter sawn maple really is that big of a jump (only $30 extra) I'd buy from Musikraft and get them to finish it or I use the tung oil if I get good feedback on it.
quartersawn maple is pretty cool looking. it's seen on the Eric Johnson sig strat from fender. I got their flame maple, which I think is gorgeous. IMO, if you're getting a new neck, i'd say get some cosmetic upgrades too. flame maple, birdseye maple, quartersawn. they look way better IMO over the stock fender necks.

Neck Contour:

1) I am looking for the measurements for the Fender Modern C shape neck profile. I am looking the make my neck as close as possible to that spec as it is the most comfortable Fender neck I have played to date.
the standard/medium C should be the one. i got myself a clapton V neck contour, which is comfortable enough for me. This question should be asked to musikraft. Email them from the "contact us" section on their website. check fender's nut width and the voulte/heel transition too. standard fender i believe uses 1-11/16" nuts.

I believe thats all the info I need. Thanks for any help.

this is mine here:



more pics and details:
https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=712642
Call me "Shot".

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#5
Thanks alot for the responses EC. For the finish over the frets that won't be an issue as I am going with a rosewood board and it would be masked off before painting. Just gotta pick what I want really.

As for the heavily rolled fingerboard edges you mentioned I actually didn't pay that much thought as I know the frets will wear down over time and I'll make it my own but do you see much of a difference with the heavily rolled edges?

As for the fretboard radius I am going with the 9.5" radius. Very comfortable for me and I have yet to try out a guitar with a 7/5" radius fingerboard so I don't want to take any chances.

The quarter sawn is definitely a major selling point for me for its construction qualities. Unless I can get it from Warmoth for a reasonable price I will more then likely pick up the neck from Musikraft because of that.

I figure the Medium C would be close but I am never sure since I suck with the whole measurement issue lol.

As for the volutes all I know is that it is the contour from the neck to the back of the headstock. I really don't know its purpose besides that if there even is another. I figure maybe the softer volute would be more comfortable when doing chord work in the lower register.

I am definitely going with the 1 11/16" nut width by the way.

Edited
-Denny
PRS Singlecut Trem

Member #2 of the Coheed and Cambria fanclub, PM dementedpuppy to join.
Last edited by OsirisProtocol at Dec 2, 2007,
#6
Quote by OsirisProtocol
Thanks alot for the responses EC. For the finish over the frets that won't be an issue as I am going with a rosewood board and it would be masked off before painting. Just gotta pick what I want really.

As for the heavily rolled fingerboard edges you mentioned I actually didn't pay that much thought as I know the frets will wear down over time and I'll make it my own but do you see much of a difference with the heavily rolled edges if you have them?

The quarter sawn is definitely a major selling point for me for its construction qualities. Unless I can get it from Warmoth for a reasonable price I will more then likely pick up the neck from Musikraft because of that.

I figure the Medium C would be close but I am never sure since I suck with the whole measurement issue lol.

As for the volutes all I know is that it is the contour from the neck to the back of the headstock. I really don't know its purpose besides that if there even is another. I figure maybe the softer volute would be more comfortable when doing chord work in the lower register.

I am definitely going with the 1 11/16" nut width by the way.

they heavily rolled fingerboard edges are good. it makes my playing more comfortable. it might not be a difference if you don't use the 'grabbing' technique to get a grip on ur neck tho. quarter sawn is cool, but i don't think it's much if it's just the back. maybe birdseye maple. those look nice from the back and the headstock too. i like flame maple myself tho. you should ask musikraft which one is the closest to *insert fender strat model here*.

i got hard voulte with soft transition to the heel, i might have wanted soft voultes. but it's not much of a problem. voultes don't expand past the neck.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


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#7
Quote by ECistheBest
they heavily rolled fingerboard edges are good. it makes my playing more comfortable. it might not be a difference if you don't use the 'grabbing' technique to get a grip on ur neck tho. quarter sawn is cool, but i don't think it's much if it's just the back. maybe birdseye maple. those look nice from the back and the headstock too. i like flame maple myself tho. you should ask musikraft which one is the closest to *insert fender strat model here*.

i got hard voulte with soft transition to the heel, i might have wanted soft voultes. but it's not much of a problem. voultes don't expand past the neck.


If by grabbing technique you mean the old thumb over the top of the neck I do it from time to time and I don't mind fret ends but I will give it some though as it won't hurt anyway.

I'm getting the quarter sawn maple for its construction properties as it is sturdier then a normally cut maple neck. The aesthetics is a plus though.

Yeah I think I may go with the soft volute but that is open to discussion as time goes on until I find out more about them. Time will tell I guess.
-Denny
PRS Singlecut Trem

Member #2 of the Coheed and Cambria fanclub, PM dementedpuppy to join.
#8
if you have your thumb fretting the low E sometimes, you'd love the rolled fingerboards. it's nto the frets being smoothed, but the whole edge of the fingerboard smoothed. if u know what i mean. if you look closely at the pictures on musikraft website, u'll see.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


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#10
haha yea. they're pretty comfortable imo. i got an 1-5/8 nut width on mine, it was hard looking for a nut that has flat bottom and a good string spacing hahaha. keep that in ur mind.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


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#11
I'll be cutting the nut myself. Either going with Slipstone or standard bone as I don't think a Graphite nut would look decent on the guitar as a whole for the build.

I do remember one this I forgot to ask. If anyone knows the fret size of the Jumbos that are used on the Fender Highway 1 models I would be grateful for a post. I am looking for that fret size for this neck. Also if anyone else has anymore opinions on the neck finish please post.
-Denny
PRS Singlecut Trem

Member #2 of the Coheed and Cambria fanclub, PM dementedpuppy to join.