#1
So I am looking for a way to mod my strat so that it won't go out of tune when I do divebombs and I was thinking of buying a super vee. But then I thought "I don't want the hassle of a floyd rose when tuning down" (I tune between drop d and drop b several times each day).

So then I thought of getting a locking nut (the one from the super vee, just without the bridge, it's cheaper) but then I heard of these locking tuners from Fender/Schaller and people said they did the job of a locking nut.

Is this true, can I do as many dives with my vintage bridge without going out of tune with those as I would with a locking nut?
#2
I doubt it....... I have the Locking Tuners on my Strat and it stays in tune for months on end..

But I have all 5 Springs loaded in my bridge/trem so I don't use it at all.

I think that with a proper set-up and making sure you are properly stretching your strings completely when changing strings adding those locking tuners will work ok....... just not sure how the bridge set up will handle it.

Is is MIA, MIM, MIJ?

I have a Satriani Ibanez with the floating / locking but trem system on it......... and you still have to properly stretch and wind the strings. Took a few times to get the technique down but it stays in tune non-stop also.

The key is stretching the strings Completely. Basically bring the string up to a little tension and pull and stretch on it until you can tighten it and if you pluck it just after pulling and stretching on it it stays at level pitch.

That's the only way to endure good tuning......'cause if you don't stretch them good they will Stretch themselves when you bend 'em.

A good stretching job with 10 guage strings takes be about 10 minutes. Sometimes a little longer with the Ibanez since it's a floating bridge.
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#3
Quote by anubiz03
but then I heard of these locking tuners from Fender/Schaller and people said they did the job of a locking nut.
They don't.

Locking tuners cures ONE of the three problems with tuning stability.
A locking nut cures TWO of them.

1 - When you relief the tension on the strings from the bridge, it also relieves the tension in the string wrapped around the tuner's spindle. Then when you return the tension to the string, the wraps have friction against the spindle. They don't always settle in the same way. So the tuning might be sharper or flatter. Locking tuners and locking nuts both eliminate that problem.

2 - When you relieve the tension on the strings from the bridge, the string contracts toward the tuner. If there is friction at the nut, when the tension is returned to the string, the portion between the tuner and the nut has less than it did before. The portion between the nut and the bridge has more than it did before. The tuning is now sharp, until the string eventually settles in. To cure this, you need a locking nut, OR a nut with low friction.

3 - When you relieve the tension on the strings from the bridge, then return it, the trem doesn't always return to the same position. A better trem returns to the normal position more precisely.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
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#4
MIJ, It's not so much about keeping it in tune generally because it always stays in tune as long as I don't use the trem violently. But when I perform a divebomb the tuning is pretty much screwed when it comes back. So I was wondering whether to get a locking bridge or locking tuners to fix that. The only alternative I'm not going to is floating bridge and/or routing.
#5
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
They don't.

Locking tuners cures ONE of the three problems with tuning stability.
A locking nut cures TWO of them.

1 - When you relief the tension on the strings from the bridge, it also relieves the tension in the string wrapped around the tuner's spindle. Then when you return the tension to the string, the wraps have friction against the spindle. They don't always settle in the same way. So the tuning might be sharper or flatter. Locking tuners and locking nuts both eliminate that problem.

2 - When you relieve the tension on the strings from the bridge, the string contracts toward the tuner. If there is friction at the nut, when the tension is returned to the string, the portion between the tuner and the nut has less than it did before. The portion between the nut and the bridge has more than it did before. The tuning is now sharp, until the string eventually settles in. To cure this, you need a locking nut, OR a nut with low friction.

3 - When you relieve the tension on the strings from the bridge, then return it, the trem doesn't always return to the same position. A better trem returns to the normal position more precisely.


I added a fourth spring to make sure it returned to flat position at all times but from your statement I think I'm gonna go with a locking nut as it cures both of the possible problems I have.

Thanks for the answers
#6
Quote by anubiz03
I added a fourth spring to make sure it returned to flat position at all times but from your statement I think I'm gonna go with a locking nut as it cures both of the possible problems I have.

Thanks for the answers
If you use a locking nut, you need fine tuners at the bridge. Or you'll have keep fussing with the tuning each time you lock down the nut.

If you don't have fine tuners, the best solution is locking tuners and a graphtech nut.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#7
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
If you use a locking nut, you need fine tuners at the bridge. Or you'll have keep fussing with the tuning each time you lock down the nut.

If you don't have fine tuners, the best solution is locking tuners and a graphtech nut.


Ah damn completely forgot about that. Ok in that case I'll have to go with locking tuners and graphtech. (Or maybe some of that nut oil and a bone nut)